Cutting PVC on a Bandsaw

[Bernie Kopfer]

I need to cut some 6in dia pipe for my dust collection system. using it to connect 45wyes togther. I would like to use my bandsaw because the cuts will come out straight etc. My question is what type of blade to use and how damaging to the blade will this be. Anybody have some experience they would like to share? Thanks

[Terry Hatfield]

Not a great idea to cut PVC on the BS. I had a bad expereince and so have several others.....check this thread....

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=137387

I use the jigsaw now.

t

[Chen-Tin Tsai]

Not sure about a bandsaw, but I cut PVC pipes with handsaws (both a hacksaw and a wood crosscut saw) as well as a jigsaw and none of the blades seem any worse for wear. It's a relatively soft material although you do have to be careful you don't heat it up so much it melts :eek:

[Bernie Kopfer]

Thanks for the replys. I think I will not attempt to repeat other's mistakes. With age comes the wisdom of not trying to reinvent the wheel.

[Eric DeSilva]

I just cut up a huge amount of PVC for a DC install. I built a quickie miter box for the PVC--I think you can see it in a pic I posted in another thread here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=137546

Its basically four small pieces of ply scrap w/6.25" holes pocket screwed to a base plate and a couple more scraps to hold the tops steady. Put pipe through, and a small space between pieces #2 and #3 keeps the cut square. When I cut my 4" pipe a couple years ago, I used a PVC specific saw. That sucked--it created tiny shavings that floated around and were statically attracted to everything. Total PITA to clean up. This go around I just used a cheap cross cut saw from the borg. Fast, "dust" was big enough that I didn't have any issues with static cling... Quite simple.

I was not impressed with how the saw looked afterwards. Had gunk all over it. I'm tempted to just throw it away, but I'm guessing some acetone might clean it up.

[Myk Rian]

I need to cut some 6in dia pipe for my dust collection system. using it to connect 45wyes togther. I would like to use my bandsaw because the cuts will come out straight etc. My question is what type of blade to use and how damaging to the blade will this be. Anybody have some experience they would like to share? Thanks
I used a 3/8" 10tpi blade yesterday. Worked great. I destroyed a 1/2" 3tpi blade a month ago when the pipe caught on it, and took the blade off the wheels. Not to mention the pipe shattered. The key is to use a higher tooth count blade.

Use a miter gauge to hold the pipe against.

[Matt Meiser]

I cut it with a miter saw and a junky blade. But you have to stop and rotate it 1/2 way through for 6" with a 12" MS. You also have to hang on so the blade doesn't grab and spin it. I should probably clamp it down somehow but I don't and just cut short pieces from long ones where I can keep my hands far enough away should it grab.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I cut it with a miter saw and a junky blade. But you have to stop and rotate it 1/2 way through for 6" with a 12" MS. You also have to hang on so the blade doesn't grab and spin it. I should probably clamp it down somehow but I don't and just cut short pieces from long ones where I can keep my hands far enough away should it grab.


I've done that, too. I now have a blade coated in PVC goo :)

[Ken Garlock]

I cut it with a miter saw and a junky blade. But you have to stop and rotate it 1/2 way through for 6" with a 12" MS. You also have to hang on so the blade doesn't grab and spin it. I should probably clamp it down somehow but I don't and just cut short pieces from long ones where I can keep my hands far enough away should it grab.

The miter saw is the way to go. I piped up my entire shop using the miter saw to cut the 6" PVC to length. Like Matt says, hold the pipe tightly. With an SCMS you can cut a little over half way thru the pipe. Then, you stop, rotate the pipe about 1/4 turn, recenter the blade in the slot you just cut, hold on tightly, and complete the cut. Never restart the saw with the blade in the slot, you will not be happy with the results.:eek: IF you were really careful re-centering the blade, you will get a clean cut all the way around the pipe. If you miss a little on the re-centering, you will get a small shoulder where the two cuts meet, but that is no big deal.

[Matt Meiser]

I've done that, too. I now have a blade coated in PVC goo :)

That's why I said use a junky blade :).

But actually I've found both Blade and Bit Cleaner (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000984/3402/Blade-and-Bit-Cleaner-845-Ounce-Pump-Spray.aspx?refcode=05INFROO) and CMT Formula 2050 Bit/Blade Cleaner (http://www.holbren.com/cmt-formula-2050-bit-blade-cleaner-18-oz..html) get the residue right off. Same if you cut PVC exterior trim or use a UMHW ZCI and get melted plastic on your blades.


Never restart the saw with the blade in the slot, you will not be happy with the results.:eek:

+1!

[Robert Reece]

I cut it using a jigsaw too.

This is how I do it-
First, I cut off about 2" of a bell end, then split the ring in one place. So now I have a split collar of PVC that I can wrap around the pipe I am about to cut and trace the cut line.
Then I use my jigsaw with a Bosch progressor wood cutting blade. I used to use a metal cutting blade, but the wood cutting blade actually leaves a much cleaner cut.
In order to start the cut, I run the blade tangential to the pipe until it makes it through enough that I can plunge the blade into the pipe. Then I just spin the pipe into the jigsaw.
It takes a little practice to get the plunging part right, but once you have it, you can cut a pipe in < 1 minute.

[Tyler Boleyn]

I use a 14" chop saw with a metal blade (black fiber looking).

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I have no problem using a band saw. Before you cut pipe, cut a pipe carrier out of a piece of thick stock. It should be about half the thickness of the pipe. Stand the carrier on end and band saw out the circumference of the pipe. Using such a jig will keep the blade from trying to spin the pipe as you pass the center line.

fmr

[Josiah Bartlett]

I use a cheapo HF variable speed sawsall with one of those long demolition blades on it for cutting pipe. If you build an old fashioned wood miter box for it you can keep the cut nice and straight.

[Pat Stewart]

I use a 14" chop saw with a metal blade (black fiber looking).

+1 on the chop saw. Harbor Freight has a few that would work great. They only have a 4" capacity so you would have to rotate the 6" pipe.

The edge finish is smooth and ready to glue up (not that your gluing) as compared to using a Recip. saw or something else.

[Lex Boegen]

I saw an electrician use some heavy twine to cut some PVC conduit. The conduit was inaccessible to any other tool, including a mini-hacksaw. He improvised a tool with about three feet of heavy twine, wrapping it one full turn around the PVC, and then pulled back and forth on the ends. The friction of the twine "cut" (actually melted) the PVC. The cut was very clean and it didn't take very much effort or time to do. I don't see why it wouldn't work on larger PVC like you're describing.

[Matt Meiser]

They actually sell a PVC saw like that. Just a piece of wire rope with plastic handles on the ends. Very convenient for cutting a pipe in a wall.

[glenn bradley]

Bandsaw? Nope. I used a jig saw and rotated the pipe in a Workmate.

[Chris Padilla]

Sawzall with a long blade and a scrap "miter fence" tossed together to get a reasonably straight cut (it doesn't need to be dead nuts on...just close) and allow some clamping is what I used.

[Alan Schaffter]

I destroyed one Timberwolf bandsaw blade cutting 6" PVC pipe; never more.

Here is a VERY easy and VERY safe way to make a nice clean cut on the table saw- no chance of kick-back or grabs and the blade is low, mostly buried in a wood block, so there is little danger to hands or fingers. You can also cut right up to the start of the bell end. It makes plastic snow, but that is a minor inconvenience.

I made a shallow-angle cradle on the table saw from a piece of 2X4 and attached it to my miter gauge. I placed a piece of scrap pipe on the cradle and and slowly raised the blade until the tips of the blade just pierced the pipe wall.

There are two ways to use the jig- feed the jig and pipe through the blade multiple times, rolling it a little each time. Do this until the cut is complete. Or you can do like I do- feed the jig and pipe into the blade, stop over the blade, and roll the pipe until the cut is complete.

Setting blade height:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1759/medium/IMG_3135.jpg

Making the cut:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1759/medium/IMG_31381.jpg