Curly maple glue up

[Dick Tysen]

I need help on a glue up of curly maple for a desk lid. It will be 3/4" by 12" by 26" and I plan on using 3 boards for the glue up.To get the best look for the lid all the growth rings are set in the same direction.I know this is not right but I don't have a choice.My question is can I cut a spline and join the boards to reduce the cupping or is there a better way?

[Jim Izat]

Hey Dick,

Then only way you can use a spline to reduce cupping across the width of a panel would be to use a couple dovetailed battens on the bottom of the panel glued for just the middle two or three inches.

If you alternate the rings or don't (there's two schools of thought here as there are with all things woodworking) you can get either a wavy or a cupped apearance long term (alternate or not respectively).

If you used a spline across the grain you'd limit seasonal movement and probably lose the panel to spliting in a few years.

Jim Izat

[Bob Lasley]

Originally posted by Dick Tysen
I need help on a glue up of curly maple for a desk lid. It will be 3/4" by 12" by 26" and I plan on using 3 boards for the glue up.To get the best look for the lid all the growth rings are set in the same direction.I know this is not right but I don't have a choice.My question is can I cut a spline and join the boards to reduce the cupping or is there a better way?

Dick,

I seldom pay much attention to growth rings. I always orient my glue ups for best grain matching and have had few problems.

Bob

[robertfsmith]

If your glueing 3 4" boards, and they are properly dryed, you should have any problem with cupping. The only prob should be minor shrinking and swelling across the width, but for being 3 pieces equaling 12" your shrinkage should only be like 1/8" at the most. But as small as panel as your making, cupping shouldn't be any problem.

[Lee Schierer]

I don't know how close to the finished size your boards are, but if they are wide enough, I would glue them up for the best appearance and then set the assembly asisde for a few weeks to see if it moves at all or enough to cause oyu problems. If it does cup, then you could cut the three pieces apart and alternate them. I seriously doubt that you will need to do that.

If the wood is dried and flat, I would think they would remain flat.

When you apply the finish, make sure you apply the same number of coats on both sides of the pieces. This will even out the moisture absorption and drying and will aid in keeping the boards flat.

[Steve Jenkins]

i don't worry about the grain orientation. I put best face up for grain and color matching. I've never had a problem with any kind of warping. Just be sure that like Lee said finish both sides equally. If you glue it up and set it aside like Lee mentioned make sure you either put it on edge or cover it with another board or something. If you just let it lie on your bench it will warp due to uneven moisture content on one face to the other. Steve

[Joe_Ott]

With Lee and everybody else. Glue up for looks. As I recall, I read that not too long ago in Fine Woodworking too. I always glue up based on looks.

I do remember doing some end tables a year or two ago using some nice curly maple for the tops and one of the tops decided to warp after glue up. Wasn't a problem though as I had read, again in FWW (I think it was anyway), about using a (very) slightly dampened cloth and a light bulb to take the warp out of glue ups/boards. It was amazing. Put the rag/towel under the board (not wet but just slight moisture) and the light above (not on as you'll start I fire - I know...) and the board(s) will warp in towards the light. I kept flipping the board over and over until it became flat and has since stayed that way. You can actually adjust the warpage and warp points by minipulating the location of the light and rag. I wish I could remember the exact procedure. It was very effective. I guess it's all about equalizing the moisture.

Also, like already said, apply same type and amounts of finish to all surfaces not just top and bottom.

Joe