Blade Guard DC Mod ideas?

[Eric DeSilva]

I just got done redoing the DC in my shop w/6" PVC. As part of that process, I installed a 6/6/4 wye over my TS, which is a Unisaw equipped with the Bies T-Square blade guard. That blade guard has a lexan box that fits over the saw blade with a 1.25" (?) outlet to connect a vac too. It is part 43 in the pic below. Given what I know about DC, it would seem better to maintain a larger diameter path all the way down to the blade cover--4" doesn't seem feasible, but the standard 2" shopvac size seems like it would fit. But the problem is getting or making a lexan replacement for the blade guard with a larger diameter opening. Anyone work with lexan care to comment on how difficult it might be? Think I could find someone to make one for me? Seems like a straight flat piece might be heated then bent to address the angled nature of it, and then a piece of a pipe glued to the top and a hole drilled/cut.

Or, is this in the category of stupid and not worth it? I used to run the cyclone to pull from the 4" DC port on the bottom of the saw and run a small shopvac connected to the overarm guard. I'd love to get rid of that arrangement, but I'm just unsure how much suction I'd get if I'm running a 6" port to the bottom of the machine and then necking a second 6" trunk line from 6->4->2->1.25".

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Eric, I can't help with the plastic fabrication however my old Excalibur guard had a 3" port, and my new guard has a 2" port.

I'd think that 1 1/4" is too small for a dust collector........Regards, Rod.

[David Cefai]

I don't have any first hand experience of bending the stuff but if you google "bending lexan" there's a lot of info.

As far as working it goes:

It melts when you cut it.My first cuts on a table mounted jigsaw closed up again behind the blade! There was a drop of lexan which bonded to the (plastic) table and I had to use a chisel to pare off the drop. Solution: use a very slow speed and a fine toothed blade to minimise the jumping.

Araldite epoxy bonds it beautifully.

I have read that to "polish" the edges you can run a gas blowtorch over them. If I had to bend lexan I would try a heat gun.

Hope this helps.

[Eric DeSilva]

Interesting. That would sort of imply I don't have to find lexan pipe and I might be able to just buy a sheet and bend it into a tubular port... Can you buy lexan at the borg, or do you have to find some kind of specialty shop?

[Jerry White]

Eric,

I have the Biesemeyer overhead guard and I was never satisfied with the dust collection with it. I replaced the basket with a Lee Styron Sharkguard. He makes a guard with 2 1/2 inch port and one with a 4 inch port. I think the 2 1/2 inch port would give adequate dust collection. Dust collection is greatly improved from the smaller port on the stock Biesemeyer.

I posted pictures in an earlier thread on this subject. See posts #7 and #24:

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=53974

Good luck,

Jerry

[Chris Padilla]

Eric,

My local hardware stores carries sheets of lexan and plexiglass. I'm not sure I've ever seen it at the orange or blue box stores....

[Eric DeSilva]

I replaced the basket with a Lee Styron Sharkguard.

Awesome. I just ordered one. While I was willing to potentially go down the path of making one, I would much rather spend my time using my shop. Thx.

[Van Huskey]

Very good choice. I was going to recommend it as I read the thread. Going from a shop vacs suction you would probably loose dust capture instead of gain using a necked down drop from your DC the shop vac just works better though such a small hole. The Shark will be a huge improvement.