Suggestions requested for cutting blanks from this log

[Scot Roberge]

I picked up this stump from a Bradford pear today. You'll notice some black on its extremities. That's because I literally pulled it out of a fire! (Hopefully, before it got too hot.) Anyhow, I'll a bit puzzled how to cut this thing up, so I figured I'd post the pictures here with a request for help. The base is slightly oval, being about 14" across the longer dimension. The photographs here were made of the "flatter" (14" wide) sides. The tree had three main trunks, so the lower part has two crotch sections that are 6" +/- apart. My inclination is to cut two bowl blanks vertically in line with those crotches. I'd like to get this right the first time . . . so any suggestions would be appreciated.

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[David E Keller]

Beautiful stuff... It turns like butter.

If I understand you correctly, I agree with your plan to split the tree through the pith of all three branches at once(if that's possible). The bark can extend pretty far into the blank so be wary.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Scot - without seeing the bottom of the stump to make sure - I would caution you on the bark issue that David mentioned. My experience has shown that when you have multiple trunks - at some point within the trunk you will find the original bark from when they were growing separately. You can still chainsaw it with no problem - just make sure to look for the bark areas before you go to turn it - and if they are there - be careful because it could break apart on you.

Be safe!

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Watch for nails, if it was form someones yard. Crotches are a great place to put nails into to hang a bird feeder etc.

[Thomas Canfield]

Scot,

I'd lay a cardboard template (14" or so) on the lower section in the second picture and cut off the top branches. Then I would look at how to make the section work out for one or two bowls. The better bowl may be to have a natural edge type with the inside looking out and the grain of the branches showing up inside the bowl. How big can you turn? Go for it. Large pieces of Bradford Pear are hard to come by, but make excellent finished bowls.

Keep the end grain sealed until you turn it green to 10% of diameter thickness, and then seal it and let it dry for about 6 to 8 months until weight loss stops. You have the potential for a real treasure or two there.

[Scot Roberge]

The bark can extend pretty far into the blank so be wary.



at some point within the trunk you will find the original bark from when they were growing separately.


I've only cut a couple of crotch pieces and they were both well inside of large oak logs. I see the wisdom in these cautions. Steve, the bottom of the stump is solid all the way across, but, on further examination, I bet I'd run into bark inclusion 3-4 inches up. I'm going to play it safe on this one and avoid the crotches.



Crotches are a great place to put nails into to hang a bird feeder etc.


Another little item I wouldn't have thought of. Will definitely avoid those areas.



I'd lay a cardboard template (14" or so) on the lower section in the second picture and cut off the top branches. Then I would look at how to make the section work out for one or two bowls. The better bowl may be to have a natural edge type with the inside looking out and the grain of the branches showing up inside the bowl. How big can you turn?


Thomas . . . you mean a circle of carboard, right? Never thought of using a template to position chainsaw cuts. Good one. I have a 14" lathe, although I haven't been beyond about 10". Guess it's time to "go for it" all right!

So guys, I guess my plan will be to cut the lower section vertically through the pith 90 degrees to the direction the photos were taken. Both sides should yield 14" blanks. Then I'll make the most of what is left. I'm a bit intrigued to try some natural edge end grain pieces from the larger limb sections. Thanks to all. I'll post more pictures after the "surgery".

[Leo Van Der Loo]

The steep angle of those limbs do make it very probable that you have bark going all the way down in the forks, hardly ever do limbs grow together when the limbs have that steep an angle between them, even if the bottom shows solid wood doesn't mean that is going to be the case going up.
I'd still cut the limbs through the 3 piths so to speak as if the limbs have grown together you can then see and decide what to do next, just don't be surprised if you have bark going all the way down.
The red ring will give you probably the biggest piece in there, but I do expect bark there

[Thomas Canfield]

Scot,

Yes - a circle of cardboard. I find that cardboard makes a good template for laying out circles. You can trace around it, drive a nail in the center, or use spray paint to define the circle. I use a lot of cereal box material for diameters up to about 12" since you can cut with sissors and also thin taking up less room, and use bandsaw and circle cutting jig for ridgid cardboard in larger sizes. I don't feel too guilty if I nick the cardboard template on a wood section if it is nailed to log. Some crumpled newspaper helps to stabilize the cardboard template if nailed to bark side to keep it from rocking.

[Bill Bulloch]

I am glad you posted; I got a Bartlett Pear section that looks very much like that one. It has been sitting out there in my pile for about 8 months now, while I decide how to cut it. I really like Bartlett Pear, it turns good, finishes good and I like the orange(ish) color of the wood.

[Scot Roberge]

Thanks again to all who helped prevent me from ruining this piece of wood.


I'd still cut the limbs through the 3 piths so to speak as if the limbs have grown together you can then see and decide what to do next, just don't be surprised if you have bark going all the way down.
The red ring will give you probably the biggest piece in there, but I do expect bark there

Leo, your advice seemed to confirm what others had said - so I went with it. Here's what was inside:

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Here are the blanks that I laid out and cut:

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I ended up with 5 @ 6", 1 @ 10" and 1 @ 12". The smaller blanks are pretty much clear of bark inclusions. Since the bark seems to be on the decrease moving from the center out, I am hopeful I avoided the worst of it on the larger blanks - and that there won't be structural problems with what remains. I have an opportunity to pick up a "complicated" piece of maple next week . . . will problably post for more advice. Thanks!

[Thomas Canfield]

The bark inclusions may be a design opportunity. I have a roughed out bowl that has a bark inclusion that looks like a smile on the side,and even had a void section. I have currently filled it in with some epoxy, wood chips, and instant coffee mix prior to turning the finished bowl. It should be interesting and will likely require more final filling. Several other Bradford Pear bowls have been made with some bark remaining on the outside and again it seems to add some character.