Cutting bowl blanks out of logs

[Rob Holcomb]

Hello all, I recently got some Cherry logs and sealed the ends to prevent or at least minimize cracking/checking. They are all cut to about 10-12 inch lengths. When I cut them down the center to create two blanks, what is the best way to do that safely? Chainsaw with some sort of support to prevent tipping? I can't use my band saw as there isn't enough room for the logs to get to the blade. Thanks in advance for your replies.

[dan carter]

Lay them on their side on a log/scrapwood support, don't cut end grain.

[Scott Crumpton]

I usually cut a V in the end of a short log and stand it on end. Then, lay the log to be cut in half on its side in the V and cut down the center. Be sure to remove the pith. Make 2 cuts, one on each side of the pith if necessary. If there is a pith crack already, align your cut with it. Don't cut all the way through with the center cuts. Next cut the sides off the log parallel to the center cut(s). Then finish the center cut, or just crack the log apart. Next, I lay each half down on my V log and cut of the bark, either straight or at an angle if I need to keep more wood. All cuts should be made with the grain and will produce long noodles rather than chips.

[Frederick Rowe]

Rob - Here are two videos. Joe Fisher uses a pallet with one board removed to create a notch for the log to rest in. Second video, DarrellSF, uses a shop built saw horse, but he is cutting a much smaller log.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hubZtppKW4&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM_NO7kmaBc&feature=PlayList&p=A056C0E8A414B451&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=7

Just make sure not to stand the log on end and attempt to saw through the end grain. Unstable and tough on the blade. Hope this helps.

[Joe Wiliams]

When using a bandsaw to split logs is it acceptable to cut through the end grain?

[Dennis Ford]

Joe;
A band saw will cut end grain fine. The main concern with a band saw is stability. If it can rock or roll while being pushed through, the blade can catch - very dangerous!!

My preferred method is to set the log on end with the grain vertical and cut with a band saw. This requires a large band saw or small blanks. When a piece is too large to go through my band saw, I lay it on its side and cut with a chain saw.

[Joe Wiliams]

Thanks Dennis.

I saw Norm do it once years ago, he built a sled and used screws to hold the log to it. I think he created two flat surfaces then proceeded as usual using the fence.

[Steve Braman]

Thanks for the pointers. I was given a few 15" diameter walnut logs last week and the easter bunny dropped off a new chainsaw on Sunday (I will post pictures later in another thread), so I am about to embark on cutting my first logs into blanks. I was thinking I would make the first cut to one side of the pith maybe 75% of the way through and then make the second cut on the other side. I thought this would help maintain the log stability for the second cut. Am I way off base here?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Rob - I use 2 Maple logs that lay parallel to each other, a couple of inches apart, in a pile of shavings packed around them so they can't move. These logs then cradle whatever wood I am going to chainsaw. The space between the logs provides plenty of clearance for the chainsaw when ripping through a log.

As a general rule - I only cut up what wood I am going to rough turn in the next couple of days and place the blanks in plastic grocery bags to retain the moisture. Because I plan to rough turn ASAP, I rip the wood through the pith, then take each half of the ripped log (one at a time) and place it - bark side down - in the cradle and knock off the corners with the chainsaw.

I am sure there are better methods of doing things - but this works for me.

Also, just a reminder - we have a wealth of knowledge available to us through the search function. Here are a few of the threads dealing with this same subject:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=57275&highlight=chainsaw+stand

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=81861&highlight=cutting+bowl+blanks

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=95805&highlight=cutting+bowl+blanks

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=120759&highlight=cutting+bowl+blanks

Have fun - and be safe!

[Bernie Weishapl]

I built a X shaped stand that I lay the logs in to cut in half. Built it out of scraps. Works great and logs are stable during the cut.

[Reed Gray]

When cutting with the chainsaw, I like the log to be just below waist height. I have a reject log on end for cutting, and there are always scraps laying around to prop it into place as you don't want it rolling on you while you are cutting. I have a bunch of plywood strips, in half inch increments, from one inch up to 8 inch wide for marking out cut lines on the end grain. This helps you get a flatter cut down the center if you have a line to look at. I do cut a lot of bowl blanks end grain on my bandsaw. It does a better job of cutting than the chainsaw. First, I lay the half log section on the saw, face down and cut the end square and straight. I do this by eye, and may some day make a sled for doing this. Some times I will cut both ends, if for no other reason, to see if there are any cracks. Next, I mark, with my plywood strips, the width I am cutting, then stand it on end and cut. The only problem with cutting end grain is that it makes the same long shavings that you get with the chainsaw when cutting parallel to the grain, and the dust collector doesn't pick them up very well (I haven't seen a good dust/shaving port on a bandsaw yet). After a while of cutting, the inside of your bandsaw reminds me of the old Star Trek adventure "The Trouble With Tribbles". All sorts of fuzzy balls falling out.

robo hippy

[Breck Whitworth]

This stand is very effective for all of the cuts necessary for preparing a bowl blank. Including the original cuts with the chainsaw to remove the pith and the outside cuts for a flat surface for the bowl foot. All materials are of 4x4 treated lumber, and the angles are 45 degrees.229958I hope this will be a blessing to some of you. The height can be made to fit your personal needs. The distance between the two tall set of posts is 7" the distance between the short post to the left is 4" and is 4" lower than the middle section. This allows a very large half section to have support, as you can see.
Breck

[Mike Cruz]

Breck, that's a nifty little set up you have there... I may have to steal that. Well, not YOURS, but the idea/concept/layout. ;)

[Breck Whitworth]

Mike that is the reason I posted it, so it could be a blessing to others like it has been to me.

[Roger Chandler]

I really like the design on this log holder.........I have a few extra 4x4 pressure treated laying around...........might just have to cobble one of these together! Thanks for bringing back this old thread and showing your ideas here Breck........nice stuff!

[Mike Peace]

That is a very well thought out design. Thanks for sharing.

[Breck Whitworth]

Glad to be a help to another turner
Breck

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Thanks for sharing, that is nice. I built a stand like in the second video, but this one is just outstanding.

[joel nucifore]

THANK YOU Breck been thinking about building a stand was going to do one last weekend ran out of time.. Now I am glad I did....

[Fred Belknap]

Here is my log cutting stand

Breck thanks for posting that, looks like the one I have been looking for. I cut a lot of blocks and finding some way to hold them has always been problematic.

[Mike Cruz]

The only challenge to this sort of set up is that you need to lift the logs onto it. That said, lifting might be better than hitting dirt with your chain!

Breck, could we get dimensions of your log cutting stand? Length of the posts, distance between them, etc? Thanks.

[Prashun Patel]

A quick and dirty alternative to Breck's stand is a 'saw buck'. Basically, it's two 2x4 'X's joined by a cross member. I like it small, because it's portable. They're also quick to make so you don't feel bad cutting into them. I would also counsel you to watch yr back when chainsawing. Stooped over chainsawing and heaving heavy logs is I believe how I screwed up my back.

If you have the power and capacity on yr saw, then if the lengths of your blanks are shorter than your cutting height, then you can run the logs thru the bandsaw, end-grain down (provided you've chainsawed them relatively flat; make sure they don't rock on the bandsaw table).

I prefer doing this on the bandsaw these days because it's more controllable, quicker, and provides a flatter face than chainsawing the log in half. It'll result in less waste, and a cleaner line thru the pith.

Like Steve, I've had the best luck cutting up only what I can rough out within a week or two. Even cutting them into D's and flattening both faces is ok. The quickest way (for me) to convert a blank to firewood is to cut it into a lathe-ready disc, and then let it sit for months without rough turning it.

[Breck Whitworth]

The vertical height is not important each should build the height that is best for their back. The only distance I found to be important but by no means the only distance that would work, is that the main cutting 4 posts are separated by only 7 inches.( 7" opening between posts) and the distance of the left and lower posts are 4" from the main four and 4" lower. I have found that this works for big or small half logs for trimming. (like in the pic on my first post)The outside width of the stand is about 16" the outside length is about 46" long. The lower flat part is for trimming the corners off the square bowl blanks. The height I chose is 27 or 28 inches high. I remember thinking I probably should have made it a couple of inches higher so I would not have to bend over so much when cutting a lot of wood, but it still works great.

[Dan Forman]

I built this a while ago, but it's not as versatile as Breck's design.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1020182.jpg

It's made of pressure treated 2x4s. The spacing of the horizontal rails could be a little wider. It's good for anything I can lift to it, but for the big stuff I have a slab of maple end grain about 5" thick that I can roll the heavy log on, and wedge in place with cutoffs. Cutting near ground level isn't much fun, but it beats a back injury by a long shot.

Here is another option I might try, for help lifting those big dogs... http://www.hiltonhandcraft.com/Articles/Sawbuck.asp

Dan