Is this the chuck and jaws I need?

[Art Wagner]

I'm thinking of buying the current Nova G3 deal over at Woodcraft for $149.99.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080766/29195/Nova-G3-Chuck-and-Jaw-Promotional-Package.aspx

The chuck Body (without insert) comes with these jaws:
(1) 50mm Jaws
(1) 35mm Bowl Jaws
(1) Pin Jaws
(1) Mini Cole Jaws

I've got two Jet lathes: 1236 and 1014. I'll be turning spindles for bagpipe parts, mostly from about 9/16" to 2" in diameter and from 4" to 14" in length. I assume that most of my work will be gripping with contraction.

It looks like the 35mm Bowl and Pin Jaws will work for the smaller work:
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/35mm.htm
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/Pin.htm

... and the 50mm Jaws on the larger stock:
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/50mm.htm

There's a gap in range between the 35mm and 50mm jaws, so that between about 1.23 and 1.65, I'd not be able to hold round stock. How would I handle that problem?

Also, it looks like with anything over 2" square, I'd need another set of jaws.

Am I understanding all of this correctly?

Is there anything else I need to consider?

[David E Keller]

You can always start the piece between centers and turn a tenon that will fit in your chuck if needed.

Sounds like the pin jaws will be needed if you are turning things as small as 9/16.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Art,

That chuck should work for you and what you want to do.

The one question....is the spindle thread the same on both lathes?

You need an insert to fit the spindle. If the thread is the same only one insert would be required.

Be sure to buy a Technatool/NOVA insert. A lot of folks have been reporting runout problems when using the Woodcraft branded inserts. The same chuck on the same lathe with the Technatool/Nova insert ran true.

As David said, you can always turn a tenon if you decide to turn something larger.

[Bernie Weishapl]

It will work fine. I think both lathes are 1 X 8 spindles so shouldn't need a adapter.

[Art Wagner]

Thanks for the help! I'll bet you can tell I'm a complete novice, can't you?!

I like the idea of using the centers with larger stock. That'll work.

What do people do when there's a gap between the grip ranges of available jaws?

35mm Jaws
Square: 0.315 to 1.142
Round: 0.394 to1.220

50mm Jaws
Square: 1.220 to 2.047
Round: 1.654 to 2.520

In other words, how would you handle 1 1/2" round stock?

Would I just get a set of the 35mm and 45mm spigot jaws to fill the gap? Or is there an cheaper solution?
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/Spigot.htm

[Mike Peace]

Like David said, turn a tenon.

If you turn stock a little larger than 2" turn a tenon for your 50MM jaws. If you are turning stock smaller than 2" turn a tenon that can be held in the 35MM or pin jaws. When turning the tenon, make sure that you have a clean 90 degree shoulder. The bottom of a tenon should not rest on the inside bottom of the chuck. Rather the shoulder around the bowl’s tenon should sit in solid contact with the top of the chuck’s jaws. Most of my "square" stock was cut from green wood on a bandsaw so is rarely square so I almost always turn a tenon. Your chuck will grip a tenon better than a square (more steel to wood ratio).

[Art Wagner]

Thanks again for the great advice.


... The bottom of a tenon should not rest on the inside bottom of the chuck. Rather the shoulder around the bowl’s tenon should sit in solid contact with the top of the chuck’s jaws. ...
That's a detail I hadn't considered. In that case, even the spigot jaws wouldn't be deep enough to cut the needed final tenon. Perhaps that means that I'd have to cut a shorter tenon first and then come back to the tenon when everything else is done to create the full depth necessary.


I think both lathes are 1 X 8 spindles so shouldn't need a adapter. Yes, I think you're right that they are 1 x 8 spindles. I see that both Teknatool and Woodcraft sell 1 x8 inserts, so doesn't that mean I'd need one?

The Woodcraft insert is both right and left-hand threaded. Is that the non-Teknatool insert people had trouble with?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Art - if you do a search here you should find all sorts of info regarding tenons and the proper way to make them fit. Here is one: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=129122&highlight=tenon

[Art Wagner]

I've read through a number of posts on tenons. It looks like most of them are shallow or short and used to hold much larger diameter objects, like bowls.

What if there's no shoulder at all? If the object is long and narrow can a longer set of spigot jaws be used to grab a longer length of the stock?

[Ryan Baker]

Yes, you can do that with spindle-oriented grain (parallel to the bed ways). Use the tailstock for support when you can, don't hang the piece too far out, and don't be too aggressive with your cuts. It will work just fine. (You can grip square stock quite well that way too.) The spigot-type jaws are designed to do that very thing, and will hold better than the dovetail jaws for that type of job.

That package sounds well suited to your work. The trick to the in-between sizes is simply do not make any of those. If your piece is in that range, mount it some other way (maybe between centers) and turn it down to fit your next smaller jaw. You learn to be careful not to make tenons that require the in-between sizes. Be aware that the inside edge of the pin jaws are not dovetailed like the others, and that can be a problem for holding some types of small pieces.

[Roger Secrist]

Both of your lathes have a 1 X 8 thread on the drive. The G3 package you are looking at does not come with an insert. The best insert for this chuck is the RH thread model from Technatool. Woodcraft's item number is 15M76.

[John Keeton]

ToolNut has the Delta G3 chuck, with 50mm jaws, for $99 with free shipping. It is 1"xtpi. Just a thought.

[Art Wagner]

Thanks, guys!

I hadn't considered the Delta G3. Is it basically the Nova G3? Any significant differences?

Tool Nut has the ad here:
http://tinyurl.com/ybsrk3d

[John Keeton]

I have one of each. The only difference I can see is that the screw worm is a little longer on one of them. I am not home right now and not sure which one it is. The 50mm jaws were a little deeper (reason for the longer screw?) Also, I don't believe the standard G3 has the set screw for running in reverse, but the G3-D does.

Otherwise, identical.

[Sid Matheny]

John is talking about the Nova G3 I think because I got the same email from ToolNut.

Sid

[John Keeton]

Sid, the one that ToolNut has the special on is the G3-D, which is the Delta version that has the setscrew for running in reverse. Both are made by Teknatool. As indicated, one of them (G3 or the G3-D) has the longer 50mm jaws and worm screw - just can't recall and not where I can look.

[Art Wagner]

John, if you have a chance, it would be helpful to know which has the deeper 50mm jaws.

Does the Delta G3-D come with an insert or a standard size thread? I don't see it mentioned in the descriptions.

[John Keeton]

Art, the G3-D comes with standard 1" x 8tpi threads as it is made specifically for the Delta. That is why it has the set screw for running in reverse. The standard G3 uses an insert.

I looked at the jaws, and the difference is not in the depth of the jaws itself, but in the thickness of the base of the jaws. This makes them stand out from the body of the chuck more, necessitating a longer worm screw.

I think the G3-D was the one with the thicker jaws, but I honestly do not know as I have switched them around so much, using my cole jaws, etc., that I can't be sure. Sorry! I don't think that matters one way or the other, though, except in using the correct worm if you have two. I always just grab the longer one. The difference is minimal - perhaps 1/4" or less.

[Jim Sebring]

Earlier versions of the Nova 1 x 8 inserts didn't have a grub screw hole. Probably because there were few if any lathes with that headstock thread that could be run in reverse.

All the 1 1/4 X 8 inserts I have (9) have the grub screw hole and were supplied with an appropriate set screw. I put a #2 lead shot in the dimpled end of the set screw when installing the chuck on the lathe to keep from marring the headstock threads. Nova supplies a couple of fiber discs with each new chuck, but they seem to only be good for one use before they're shot.

[Art Wagner]

It's interesting that when I mentioned I was considering a Nova G3 to some friends that make bagpipes, one of them insisted that although this style of chuck was great for turning bowls, it would not be the best choice for spindle turning. He recommended a 3-jaw chuck like this:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1187&category=566826475
I don't know what brand it is, so it might be a Chinese knock-off.

Others said that the Nova G3, especially with spigot jaws, would have a much better grip on the wood. All of which got a heated argument burning. Without much experience, it's difficult to sort through the opinions. I suppose there's not one perfect answer.

[John Keeton]

Art, I don't know anything about that chuck, but I don't know how a 3 jaw chuck could be superior to a 4 jaw chuck. The idea is to fully grasp the wood.

When I am going quick spindle turning, I grasp the square stock between the jaws in my chuck - not the dovetail part, but the inside edge of the jaws. That is what I do for finials, as well. Works fine.

[Art Wagner]

I appreciate everyone's help. I've ordered one and look forward to giving it a whirl!

[Sean Ackerman NY]

Thanks, guys!

I hadn't considered the Delta G3. Is it basically the Nova G3? Any significant differences?

Tool Nut has the ad here:
http://tinyurl.com/ybsrk3d

Art, it's the same, it's made by Nova. Says it right on the box.

[Ryan Baker]

It's interesting that when I mentioned I was considering a Nova G3 to some friends that make bagpipes, one of them insisted that although this style of chuck was great for turning bowls, it would not be the best choice for spindle turning. He recommended a 3-jaw chuck like this:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1187&category=566826475
I don't know what brand it is, so it might be a Chinese knock-off.

Others said that the Nova G3, especially with spigot jaws, would have a much better grip on the wood. All of which got a heated argument burning. Without much experience, it's difficult to sort through the opinions. I suppose there's not one perfect answer.

Three-jaw vs four jaw itself is not what matters. The important thing is the jaw design and how the jaws grip the material. Those three jaw chucks are designed for holding metal in metal lathes. They won't hold wood anywhere near as well. Sounds like somebody has too much hot air in his bagpipes.

[Art Wagner]

Thanks, everyone!

It sounds like the only significant difference is the insert with the G3 and a fixed 1" 8 TPI on the G3-D.

I decided to order a G3 because of the extra jaws, but if I need another plain chuck, this G3-D will be the ticket.