Cherry Finish

[Kris Bjarnason]

I apologize for any redundancy here as I know this topic has been covered numerous times - I have read countless threads on finishing cherry. But I think by reading so many different schedules I am more confused. I am close to finishing a cherry vanity consisting of solid cherry and cherry ply.

The one part I am sure of is I want to start with BLO, at least on the solid cherry pieces. Would you also apply BLO to the cherry ply?

The next step(s) I am not so sure of. I see the general consensus is to go with a shellac next and build it up? I am concerned about durability of a shellac in a bathroom setting. Any reason I couldn't go right from BLO to the Minwax wipe on poly?

[Ken Shoemaker]

BLO - Shellac - Waterlox.

Many of the more experienced guys says that POLY belongs on floors ONLY. They have made me a convert. Thin it to 50% with MS and rag it on in very thin coats. After 3 coats you'll understand what they mean. BTW - It's water resistant and easy to fix if you have issues down the line. Waterlox is expensive but well worth it.

Good luck.... Ken

[Roger Jensen]

Hi Ken,

How long do you wait for the BLO to dry before you put on the shellac, and do you wipe it down with a 50/50 mixture of water/DNA to get any remaining BLO off of the cherry before you apply the shellac?

I assume you mean to use a de-waxed shellac between the BLO and topcoat, correct?

Roger

[Kris Bjarnason]

Thanks Ken. In addition to Roger's question, which do you thin down to 50% with mineral spirits? Also, would you mind recommending a specific shellac?

[Henry Ambrose]

Why BLO and then shellac and then Waterlox?

Try a scrap piece with Waterlox only and see what it looks like - and another with BLO and Waterlox. Give everything plenty of time to dry between coats. See what it looks like on the ply and solid wood parts. See for yourself.

There seems to be a emphasis on multi-step and multi-material finishes in this forum and I don't get it. These procedures make more work and not necessarily a better finish. Every week or so we get another "I put on X then Y then Z and my finish is crummy and soft."

In industrial use multi-step and material finishes are used to cover poor grain matching or to imitate nice wood with something lots cheaper. If you want your finished piece to look like nice cherry then use nice cherry. A simple finish will let your nice wood show - you have nothing to hide. If the ply doesn't quite match up to the solid then work on that to make it better before finishing.

Try "one product finishing" putting your time into excellent surface prep and see if it works for you. I think it will.

[Joe Chritz]

BLO will pop or enhance the grain of the cherry. You may find that a single application of an oil base finish (waterlox) will do the same thing.

Shellac allows you to adjust the overall color by choosing a blonder, amber or whatever color. Dewaxed shellac allows you to use a waterbase finish with less chance of adhesion problems.

For cherry I use BLO, followed by a barrier coat of zinseer seal coat (dewaxed blonde shellac) and target USl.

Finishing is always about testing. You may find that just straight to a quality finish like waterlox is all you need.

FWIW, I am one of the poly belongs on the floor people myself.

Joe

[Ken Shoemaker]

I wipe the BLO on full strength, wait a day for it to dry (opinions vary on this point), brush on the dewaxed shellac, then wipe on the Waterlox thinned to 50% with MS. Wipe the WL/MS as a kid at a fast food restaurant, damp rag and very thin film of finish. Let it dry and do it again( no need to sand between coats like POLY). I've had great success and rearly done more than three coats... Good luck!!! And don't forget to show us your work.. :D Ken

[Jim Becker]

There seems to be a emphasis on multi-step and multi-material finishes in this forum and I don't get it. These procedures make more work and not necessarily a better finish. Every week or so we get another "I put on X then Y then Z and my finish is crummy and soft."~snip~

Try "one product finishing" putting your time into excellent surface prep and see if it works for you. I think it will.

One step can be very effective if you are brushing or wiping an oil based finish, but many of us don't use them as our preferred top coats. When using water bornes, you utilize the dewaxed shellac barrier coat over oil used for figure enhancement to insure adhesion, unless you want to let it cure for a month or so. Many of us also color work with water soluble dyes. Sealing with the de-waxed shellac insures that there is no bleed or other color inconsistencies caused by subsequent finishing products.

As to the "my finish is crummy and soft"...that's most often caused by inappropriate choices or buying into marketing for things like so-called "sanding sealers". Top coating a softer finish with a harder one offers similar issues for durability. This is a "compatibility" thing.

Today I shot my current tack trunk project. I didn't use oil, but I did shoot shellac first to add some warmth and color since my standard water borne finish is essentially "clear". For the particular species used, the shellac offered nearly the same benefit as BLO, based on my test pieces...a hair less "shimmer", but adequate for the purpose.

[Scott Holmes]

KRIS,

No you don't want to build up Shellac. The perfect shellac finish is the thinnest possible coat that is flawless. Buildin g a thick coat of shellac will cause the finish to alligator.


Ken,

Depnding on the project 3 wipe on coat is very thin. 3 wipe-on caots is approximatekly the same build as 1 properly applied brush on coat. General rule is 2 brush on coats so 5-6 wipe-on coats would be about right at a minimum.

KRIS,

No you don't want to build up Shellac