Applying finish while on the lathe

[Rich Aldrich]

I am new at all of this, so sorry for a dumb question (ie easy question to answer). How do you protect your lathe from having the finish stick to the lathe? I assume by wiping it on, it isnt as messy, but I think about the lathe whipping the finish so you have a racing stripe across the lathe bed, on the floor, up the wall and on the ceiling - like turning really wet wood as when the sap is running.

Again, I assume this doesnt happen because you wipe it on in thin coats.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Rich I don't apply any finish on the lathe unless it is pens or bottle stoppers and then it is wiped on at a slow speed maybe 100 rpm. When I do pens, stoppers, ornaments, etc. and apply like shellac, CA or such I put a piece of plastic on the lathe bed. All the big stuff such as bowls, HF's, plates, etc are finished off the lathe.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Rich - when applying oil - I wipe it on with the lathe off. Let it soak in a little and wipe off any excess. I usually do this a couple of times to make sure the oil is in the wood really good - then turn the lathe on and apply some more oil by burning it in. Meaning - put some oil on a paper towel and press into the wood so that it creates friction which speeds up the drying process.

Make sure that you do not heat the wood up very much if it is thin - or it may crack on you!

Also - I only do this on small turnings. Anything larger - like bowls or hollow forms are sanded on the lathe but finished off the lathe

[John Keeton]

I am going to jump out here and show my inexperience.

On most of the bowls and other pieces I have done, I apply BLO with the lathe off so I can get a good soaking coat, and then wipe it off within a minute or so. I then spin the lathe at low speed and buff the oil in - not with heat, but just to get a little bit of sheen. Sometimes I will use a very fine abrasive pad or 0000 for this. Then wipe with a clean paper shop towel while spinning to get rid of dust, etc.

I turn off the lathe and apply a good coat of shellac to the piece - again with a shop towel.

Then I take a paper shop towel that has a little BLO on it - wet but not soaking. I wet it in shellac and apply to the piece while it is turning at low speed until I feel I have a good even coat, then I crank up the speed and friction the finish in.

The BLO on the towel lubricates it and keeps the shellac from grabbing as it burns in.

This process takes less than 10 minutes - assuming all sanding is done.

I don't get any "spin out" of finish in this process, but sometimes I will get a drop of shellac or BLO on the ways. I just wipe it off while wet - no harm.

The result is a very nice - and quick - finish that has a low luster sheen to it. On some pieces, I will complete the piece with a coat or two of Deft brush on lacquer - off the lathe.

But, keep in mind that I have done a minimal number of turnings compared to the others in this forum. I just use this method really because it is an adaptation of the method I use often on flatwork.

[Reed Gray]

Slow speed is the key to applying wet finishes to a piece. I like to apply a heavy coat (either Mahoney's Walnut oil, or a wipe on poly) to pieces. Very slow, in the 50 or so range gives a nice even coat. Some times I let it soak and apply more later, others I just buff it in, and then when most of it is gone, I up the speed to apply a little heat. If you catch the finish while it is wet, it will wipe off easily.

robo hippy

[Al Wasser]

The lathe bed is easy to protect. I use a piece of cardboard that fits the bed. A friend uses a cut off old pant leg. I finish everything on the lathe except the bottom of bowls. My advice is to not use BLO on light color wood that you want to keep light. BLO and other oil finishes just hasten the rate that maple and some other woods turn toward yellow which I hate. I use a lacquer on the light woods. My 2 cents

[John Keeton]

My advice is to not use BLO on light color wood that you want to keep light. BLO and other oil finishes just hasten the rate that maple and some other woods turn toward yellow ...I agree with Al on this - unless you like the amber look of curly maple, and some do.:) There are times that I do not want the amber look and lacquer is my choice in those cases.

[Mike Lipke]

I lay a section of newspaper on the ways, under the item you are working on.

[John Tomasello jr]

A piece of ply wood with cleats stapled to it that fit the with of the bed. Mostly used for CA finish or wet sanding.

[Rich Aldrich]

Thanks for the help guys. As always, you guys have very helpful answers.

[Allen Neighbors]

With the lathe turning about 100-150 rpm, I apply lacquer wash with a rag and I apply Danish Oil with a polish pad from Vince. Sometimes I splatter the finish... I'm a klutz.
I use a piece of old canvas tarpaulin to cover the ways. Sometimes I don't get it on there soon enough, and discover I've forgotten it. My lathe looks like it's been shot with a splatter-gun... whatever that is. :)
I wipe it up as soon as I notice it. When necessary, I clean my ways with a block of wood, and 400 grit emery. Then wipe it down with mineral spirits.
I love woodturning! I seldom finish pieces off the lathe. Only when spraying them with lacquer. :)