Table Saw Rip sled vs rip fence?

[Jaze Derr]

I bought a used no-name table saw (anyone ever hear of "Pro-Tech"?), and the fence on it is a joke. I think it was pretty terrible even before the previous owner mangled it. It's bent and twisted out of shape. Needless to say, it's not even remotely safe to use.

Because I can't afford the fancy aftermarket fences (hence the used, cheap TS), I'm thinking about making a rip sled instead. I'm definitely making a crosscut sled, but I need something to use for ripping, too.

I'm not even sure any of the aftermarket fences would even fit this saw. The miter slot is no where near standard, it's only about 5/8" x 1/4". I think it might actually be metric, but I'm too lazy to go down and measure it in mm right now.

Any thoughts on the feasibility of tossing the horrible fence and making one of these (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19298)to use instead?

[Jim Heffner]

I think you are going to do a lot of work to make a "rip sled" when it is not needed. You would be better off making a good solid, straight, rip fence for
that saw instead. I would buy a straight 2x4 from a lumber yard, a piece
of aluminum angle metal of the same size, attach the metal to the 2x4
and clamp this fence to the saw and use it for a rip fence. Better than
trying to use a "rip sled" every time you need to rip some lumber.

You then could make a decent crosscut sled to fit the tablesaw top, you will
probably use it more than a miter gauge anyway. Just make the miter slot bars to slide easliy in the slots and build the sled around that, and you are good to go from there.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

A table saw without a rip fence is just a boat anchor.

Greg

[Bill Huber]

The first table saw I had was a 54 year old Craftsman and fence on it would not stay put at all.

What I had to do was to use clamps to hold it in the position needed. I had to measure to the front of the blade and then to the back of the blade and clamp things down and then recheck it.

It worked but that took a lot of time, you could do the same.

The sled you have the link for is not really what you want, it is more for making tappers and not ripping straight cuts.

Do you have a friend with a welder and a little metal working skills or do you have a welder and a metal working skills?

If so, with some Unistruct steel, some angle iron, some aluminum and a trip to an Ace Hardware store you can make a really good fence for that saw. All of the part can be bought at a scrap yard and it would only take a day to put one together.

I can send you some pictures of what you would need and how it would go together.

[Jaze Derr]

Do you have a friend with a welder and a little metal working skills or do you have a welder and a metal working skills?

Unfortunately, no. I don't have access to anyone that can weld. And if I picked up another hobby that required new equipment, my boyfriend would explode! :)

[Tri Hoang]

I'd recommend a fence. Problem with a sled for ripping is that it tends to be tippy in the beginning when not much of sled is on the table. I'm not sure how one could get reliable accuracy ripping using a sled.

[Alex Leslie]

A "rip sled" would try to emulate a sliding table, normally a fairly expensive option on table saws. I cannot imagine a "rip sled" being even close to safe. Two "C" clamps and a straight piece of lumber is a much safer alternative for ripping, setting it up as Bill outlined above.

Safety is the first thing you should think about! I would guess that your saw is a bench-top model? Most larger saws have a bigger miter slot.

[Jaze Derr]

Ok, so a rip sled is a bad idea. got it.

I could use some suggestions, then, on how to work around the lip at the front of the saw where the OEM fence clamps down.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4487089256_ca55334cd6_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4486438507_5f3914ec4f_o.jpg

The flimsy, bent, POS fence:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2693/4486438575_555202c0c9.jpg

[Alex Leslie]

If you do the clamps and board method as a fence, you might need to put a spacer between the board and the lip, clamping under the lip. Another alternative would be to make a fence with a wide base plate, so you can clamp outside the cabinet, directly under the top.

[Van Huskey]

I would consider facing the current fence with something flat. One guy just used Corian on a Grizzly fence just a couple of days ago here. Might take some fiddling to get it straight.

[Vince Shriver]

I would consider facing the current fence with something flat. One guy just used Corian on a Grizzly fence just a couple of days ago here. Might take some fiddling to get it straight.


That's what I'd do. Getting a straight edge parallel with the blade, and the the exact width you want for a cut takes a lot of time and fussing. Use the one you've got; once you adjust it to the width of cut you want, clamp the back end with a c-clamp. (Hopefully the leading end of the fence stays put, but that might need a clamp also.) Then...save up your scheckles for a decent T/S.

[Jaze Derr]

I'd like to thank everyone for their thoughts. I went ahead and built a new rip fence out of 1/2" MDF (whew, dusty stuff!)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2755/4490236276_a5382bc872_o.jpg

I added a little cleat to the bottom that rides on the lip where the OEM fence clamped down:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4490236316_e2a848f694.jpg

Even with just one clamp, this thing is rock solid and doesn't even wiggle.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4489592655_f58021ff58.jpg

While I could use it now, my plan is to add a replaceable face of leftover laminate flooring, to aid in sliding stock across it. I also want to rout some grooves for the clamps to sit in, just so they don't shift when I undo them.

it's not pretty, but it works! and it's square (pretty much. Will need to shim the replaceable fence just a hair..)

It also slides across the table MUCH more smoothly than the original fence. Go figure. :confused:

Again, I appreciate all the great suggestions, and if you have any more, let me know! I learn something from nearly everybody.

[Mark Woodmark]

If you have access to a manufacter that uses aluminum, you may be able to purchase some scrap aluminum extrusion which could be used as a rip fence. Extrusion is straight and true and aluminum can be cut, drilled, and routed with woodworking tools. It would be stronger and more stable than wood at about the same weight. Dont quote me on this, but I think scrap aluminum goes for about 30 cents a pound