What would I need...

[Eric Mims]

I like the look of the frames on this site: http://www.holtonframes.com/ and want to be able to do similar work (simple and clean lines, nothing too fancy.. using white oak).

I have decent power equipment: table saw, miter saw, radial arm saw, drill press, hand sanders, and router.

What else do you feel is needed to do work like this, specifically:
http://www.holtonframes.com/frames/custom/curtis-garfield.html
http://www.holtonframes.com/images/frames/mitered/profile-curtisb.jpg
http://www.holtonframes.com/images/frames/mitered/profile-5005b.jpg

Would a router table and certain bits work, or does this work require a shaper with custom cutters? Planer, joiner, band saw, etc?

Thanks for any help, I love woodworking but am quite the novice when it boils down. you gotta learn somewhere....

~~Eric

[Jim Becker]

Most of those are built up frames or multi-profile, so they shouldn't be too difficult to achieve. Just think about what profiles and flat material you need to assemble to accomplish the design you want and go for it! A router table is pretty much a great tool for this and you can use the table saw for "large coves". Think in terms of "steps" you need to take to get from point A to point Z.

[Ted Shrader]

Welcome, Eric -

It is good to have new Creekers. SMC is a great place to hang out and exchange ideas.

You have the basic tools for making some of those frames in your links. As Jim said, think "built up" i.e. layer by layer with a machining step on each layer. Sometimes those steps will be on both edges of the same board.

As far as the next tool to get..... For making framing stock a router table probably would be of the most use. 'Course you will need a new 3 HP router to go in it. :) :) :)

Welcome,
Ted

[Mike Cutler]

Welcome to Sawmill Creek Eric. Too make those types of frames require, sharp tools, accurate jigs,ie a 45deg crosscut sled for the table saw, and some type of a tenon jig, a really well built router table, a shaper table would work also, and some powerful variable speed routers. About the only tool I can think of off hand that is "frame specific" is a Lion Trimmer, and even then this device has all sorts of uses in cabinet joinery.One other tool I know of is a frame vice Like Jim said work them in steps and build up the desired profile,and remember patience, patience patience.. Good luck and nice to meet ya'

[Eric Mims]

Hey, thanks for the tips. I knew these things weren't rocket science, but wasn't sure how they were making the "large coves". You just run the board at an angle against the table saw right? I think I actually might get a different router...ours is an old Craftsman 1.5hp. I'll search the archives here for router advice, but in the mean time...are there any stand-out routers or tables (I would mainly use in-table so is a plunge router worth it?).

Thanks for answering newbie questions. Now off to search!

[Mike Cutler]

Eric, There are a lot of nice routers available. If you are going to table mount them, just about any of the large Porter Cable routers will fit the bill.Alot of people also use the Hitachi M12V in a table, Dewalt has a nice large model also , as does Milwaukee. Look for a router with variable speed, soft start, 1/4 & 1/2 inch collets, and the ability to adjust the router in some way from the top of the table.A plunge router isn't a necessity for strictly table top use. You may want to investigate a "Router Raizer" and look at some of the router tables and lifting devices from the Bench Dog line of products.
After you consider these options and price everything out, you may persuaded to go for a shaper table, and power feeder instead. The price of all those router related products can easily exceed the cost of a nice shaper by the time you've completed your first frame. However it is nice to have the router and associated goodies in the shop for other uses that maybe a shaper table wouldn't ideally suit.I Hope I've confused you some more ,so you can have fun looking at all the options :D

[Eric Mims]

:eek: << well, they didn't have an icon of my head exploding...haha. I'll go down to the local hardware stores tomorrow and check out some of the 3+ HP routers. The prices seem pretty reasonable. I'll keep yall posted and come back with more questions...

~~Eric

[Norman Hitt]

Welcome to the Creek, Eric. I'll add a vote for the Hitachi M 12-V also, as I have one in my router table and it works great. Amazon/Tool Crib, (and probably others) have them with some extra goodies and a 5 year warranty right now for $159.99 (and maybe free shipping), and if you mounted it on a "lift plate" from Woodpecker at $129.95 and build your own router table, it would be an excellent performing package at a pretty cost effective price.

Good Luck, and have fun shopping..........Norm

[Kent Cori]

Eric,

I currently have a M12V in my router table but before that I used my 2 1/4 hp Bosch 1617EVSPK. It did a great job and I could have kept it in the table but the deal on the Hitachi was just too good to pass up (yeah, right! :rolleyes: ) I now use the Bosch for all my hand held needs and the Hitachi is a permanent fixture in the table.

If you do not need the power to spin a panel raiser or similar large bit, a 2 1/4 hp unit will work great in the table. It can also double as your hand held router. A 3 hp router can be a bit much to use on a regular basis for hand held work. Regardless of what you buy, make sure it is variable speed and will accept both 1/2" and 1/4" shanks.

[Charles McKinley]

Welcome Eric,

November WOOD magazine has several router related articles and plans for a nice fence.

[Donnie Raines]

Tools are important, but knowing the type of technique to use is equally important....both for safty and for acheiving the desired profile/joinery. For example: In one of the photos the moulding had a bead profile cut into the edge, along with a cove cut through the bulk of the moulding. You could make the cove cut on the table saw and make the bead cut with a router/table or with a beadin tool(by hand). You can make the tenon on the tabel saw or mitre it there as well with a mitre sled. Point is, you could go out and buy a router/shaper bit to make the cut(if you are doing prodcution work...would be a good idea) but you can also achive, often, a more unique profile simpyl by making diffrent passes on the table saw or router table. I would suggest that you purchase a picture frame book and read through it. I dont know which one would be best.......look through them and see what you think.

[Eric Mims]

Thanks everyone! The first thing I noticed is the lack of router selection at the local 'box' stores. Should've expected that...I guess I'll search the online world. Seems that once you get into the 15amp routers, they all seem to be pretty good (according to what I'm reading online)...and it seems it really comes down to personal bias from experience (and I really have none...). I'm going to look more in to the PC and Hitachi.

Thanks again everybody..