Cost Effective Router Table Router

[Meda Morg]

I am currently looking at making some cabinets for my kitchen. I had previously received a Skil 2 3/4 HP Plunge and fixed router for Christmas a couple years back. I hadn't used it that much since receiving it and found out today that it will be impossible to retrofit it into a router table I plan on building due to it not having an one off switch, just a trigger.

I have spent the better part of the week reading on the different router table designs folks are using. I want to mount a table to the wall on hinges so I can remove the router and tilt it up when not in use to save space (My shop space is limited). Here's what I've come up with so far:

I am going to make it out of 3/4 in MDF with a melamine or formica laminate on top. I am going to construct a fence with build in dust collection in the back connected to a shop vac. Then I want both the router and shop vac plugged into an outlet complete with switch so when I turn it on, both turn on and are ready for use.

My only real question is what router to buy. I don't have alot of money to spend atm and would like to keep it under $100 if at all possible. I'd like a router that I can adjust using a hex screw from the table top if I can work it in within my price point.

If I am not able to get it done for what I hope I can I may just buy a big box router table with included router for now and make one later on.

Suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[Hugh Jardon]

Put a cable tie around the trigger and install a switched outlet on the table.

A couple of cents for the cable tie, and maybe $5 in materials for the switched outlet. Hows that for cost effective?

[Meda Morg]

HEHE yea I thought about doing just that. Wonder how well the base will mount in MDF. I rarely will need to route anything more than 1 in in thichness.

[Rick Potter]

Or try Craigs list for an inexpensive used router, there are plenty of them around here.

Rick Potter

[Derek Gilmer]

You can get blank router plates pretty cheap as well. Then drill holes for your router.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331
http://www.woodpeck.com/blankphenolicinsert.html

I would also suggest making the table out of more than 3/4 mdf with laminate. There is a good chance that will sag/warp over time. With only one side of the mdf being sealed that is asking for moisture to warp it for you.

[Homer Faucett]

My only real question is what router to buy. I don't have alot of money to spend atm and would like to keep it under $100 if at all possible. I'd like a router that I can adjust using a hex screw from the table top if I can work it in within my price point.

For an inexpensive router table router, I personally like a 3hp plunge type router with enough travel in the plunge mechanism to do what you need. Many have a knob you can adjust to move the unit up or down. I personally would have liked an above-table adjustment mechanism, but never found it to be worth the money. In your price range, you are looking for a used unit. Even when buying used, you'll be limited in the larger routers in that price range.

I'm guessing your Skil is only a 1/4" collet. You definitely want a 1/2" collet for a table router. I personally use two Ryobi Re-600 routers in my tables because they were under $100 each, came with a 1/2" collet, and are built well and perform well. Many like the Hitachi 3hp router for this application, and you can sometimes find them at this price point used. Others will have options in this price range as well, but those are the ones that come to mind for me. You MIGHT find an older Bosch 3hp, or one of the other brands 2+ hp combos in this price range as well. Pick your poison, but I like Bosch and the old school Porter Cables (PC's tend to be pricier on the resale market around here).


If I am not able to get it done for what I hope I can I may just buy a big box router table with included router for now and make one later on.

Suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I totally understand wanting to buy it now and use it, but focusing your money on a better router, and mounting that router to the bottom of a sheet of plywood or MDF will likely give you better results and more long term bang for your buck--and it doesn't take much work. Even using a couple of clamps and a straight 2x4 for a fence works, and can help keep the top flat. I know it's not as pretty as some other options, but it is just as effective (or maybe more effective, if you consider you have a bigger, better router in the table since you devoted your cash to the router).

Those are my thoughts only, and I'm sure others will have suggestions that are just as good or better.

[Bas Pluim]

I used to have that router. If I recall correctly, the trigger locks via a button, so if you use a switched outlet (or foot pedal (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96619&xcamp=google&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&zmam=13262200&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=96619)) as someone suggested. No need for a cable tie.

I had a few problems with this particular model - it had some slop in the base, and the collect wouldn't always hold the bit tightly enough (even a small amount of movement in the base or bit will quickly ruin your projects...). So if you're going to spend some money, spend it on the router first and the table second. Hitachi makes good, affordable routers. Buying a used Porter-Cable, DeWalt or Milwaukee is also an option.

[Neil Davie]

I have bought reconditioned routers at considerable savings. The latest is an Hitachi 3 1/4 hp one from aaatool.net for $120. I have a similar
Freud unit on my router table at about the same price, but don't see it on the market at this time.

[Terry Welty]

I would make your current router last for now... but would save up my money for a Triton 3 1/4 router... It's a beast!! (On sale on Amazon for $269 with free shipping) Has a self contained router lift with a crank to adjuest bit height from above with a crank, also allows for easy bit changing above your table... you'll also need a beefy base plate and I agree, that if you leave the router in the table over an extended period, you may have some sagging problems...

[glenn bradley]

I rarely will need to route anything more than 1 in in thichness.

Famous last words ;-) A combo kit would allow you to leave the fixed base attached and use the router in the plunge base or table, back and forth, very quickly. Just food for thought.