The time is near boys and girls...

[Allen Grimes]

As soon as I get my table saw up and running I'm going to start on my workbench. (I wanted that to be my first project with my ne TS). I just need some help making a decision. My teacher recomends using 2 sheets of 3/4" white oak ply for the top. But I noticed that most people use hardwood. His reason is that Plywood wont warp. My only real problem with ply wood is I was planning on making my bench 3 meters long. and plywood as far as I know isnt made that long. I'm pretty confused on what I want to do at this point so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[Dan Stuewe]

Allen, just a couple of comments. First, 3 meters seems huge to me for a workbench, both in use and building. That is a lot of material to deal with in machining and assembly. Let alone what you do with the parts while you're working on it. But, if you have the space and strength to lug 3-meter long (10') boards around - go for it!

As for the material, I would go for either hardwood or MDF. Oak plywood seems like it would just be too delicate. The veneers are so thin that after the first task on the bench you'd start seeing damage. You seem to know the benefit of solid hardwood, but the MDF is nice because of the weight and stability (as long as it doesn't get wet). It is also the cheapest route (at least around me). You still have the length issue, but if you have 3 layers of MDF you can stagger the joints. Another option I've heard is to put a layer of Masonite on the top that can be replaced when you've dinged it up.

Good luck!

[Charlie Plesums]

Lots of people say that a workbench is essential, but mine consists of a couple scraps of plywood on folding saw horses. When I have a large assembly under way, the workbench can be put away, to make more floor space. I use the same table for finishing, so it is more like a sheet of lacquer rather than plywood.

Therefore, if you have a workbench at all, I would recommend a relatively small one, with separate work tables that can be stored when more space is required.

[Kevin Arceneaux]

Sounds like mine, a piece of plywood, 2 saw horses and the pickup tailgate for a butt rest.

[Mark J Bachler]

My Assembly bench is 40 x 72. Behind that against the wall is a heavy duty 30 x 72 tool bench. If I have something large or a bunch of samller things to build I have (2) 4" x 6" x 10' laminated beams that I set up on sawhorses. I can stash the beams against the wall behind the shaper when not in use. Works for me.

[Chris Padilla]

Allen,

The first thing you must do is figure what you expect from the "workbench." Using this term means 100 different things to a 100 different people. If you want to do handplaning or chop mortises, then you'll want some weight and stability and that is why most of those workbenches are made with thick hardwood tops (maple). If you need something to fix the lawn-mower upon, then tossing a piece of hardwood on top to take the dings/scrapes/grease is a good idea.

Other things: mobility? How about bench vises or machinist vises? Try to figure out what you need from this workbench and it'll help you figure out if you should spend big bucks and time or pick up some 2x4s for cheap sawhorses and a couple sheets of plywood to throw on top.

[Bill Arnold]

Allen,

I'm new here but wanted to toss in my two cents worth.

One of the guys suggested MDF and that's a good option. I've used benches in a couple of cabinet shops that had a top made of two layers of 5'x9' MDF. To protect it from spills, slather on a few coats of Johnson's paste wax.

My primary workbench at home consists of a subframe of 2x4's with 3/4" ply as a subtop covered with a sheet of 1/4" Masonite. When the Masonite gets beyond repair, it can be replaced easily.

Regards,

[Kevin Arceneaux]

Chris. I do have a 16'x2' long workbench against the one wall in the shed. I built it a year or so ago from plan in Handyman mag. It includes a dropdown area for my CMS. I made it out of 2x4's and 3/4 plywood. It comes in very handy. But it is not accomadating to assembling projects, but space limitations stop me from having a real assembly bench.

I am thinking and looking at a couple of plans for a knockdown bench that would latch onto the existing bench and be removable so that when not being used I could move it out of the way.

[Chris Padilla]

Bill,

Welcome to SMC! Your sig's FFT is interesting but I would add that The Ark probably didn't strike an iceberg!! ;)

[Bill Arnold]

Welcome to SMC! Your sig's FFT is interesting but I would add that The Ark probably didn't strike an iceberg!! ;)Well, let's see -- did the Titanic have a herd of animals 2x2 on it? :confused:

[Allen Grimes]

Im thinking that Im just going to go with hardwood, most likely WO as thats one of the few available here. Maple so far is not. And I honestly don't even know what MDF is. :o BTW what does WO go for in the states? Here its about $2.50 the board ft.

[Dan Stuewe]

Allen, MDF stands for Medium Density Fiberboard. It is like particle board except that the particles are much smaller (like dust instead of chips). It comes in sheets 1/2"-3/4" thick. At a local chain home improvement store (Home Depot) by me, I can get a 3/4" sheet for around $20 (US).

[Allen Grimes]

Dan, I thought thats what it was;) . I'll check that out since it seems a lot more reasonable, price-wise, than WO. Thanks to everyone who put there 2 cents into my thread.

[Norman Hitt]

Bill,

Welcome to SMC! Your sig's FFT is interesting but I would add that The Ark probably didn't strike an iceberg!! ;)


Hey Chris,..........You're right, Buuuuuuuuuuut........the Ark was crewed by Amatures, while the Titanic was crewed by Professionals..........(Looks like the Amatures won again) Tee...Hee!!!


For Allen: If you are not going to use solid hardwood for the top, I would vote for two layers of MDF laminated together and then put a sacrificial layer of 1/4" Tempered hardboard on top, (held in place with a dab of hotmelt glue at each corner) and then band the whole thing with a hardwood of your choice. Note: 12' MDF and Plywood sheets are readily available if you check with the Companies that supply wood products and sheet goods to the Professional Cabinet shops, and even "longer sheets can be special ordered" by them.

Cheers, and Saw Safe..........Norm

[Tony Falotico]

I'm new here but wanted to toss in my two cents worth.


First and foremost Bill, WELCOME to the Creek, Glad to have ya here and I'm glad to see the ranks of FLORIDIAN Creeker's continue to rise. Where in Florida are you?

[Bill Arnold]

...I'm glad to see the ranks of FLORIDIAN Creeker's continue to rise. Where in Florida are you?We live in Lakewood Ranch (Manatee County). We've been here since January 1998, relocating from God's Country (Texas to the uninitiated ;) ).

[Tony Falotico]

We live in Lakewood Ranch (Manatee County). We've been here since January 1998, relocating from God's Country (Texas to the uninitiated ;) ).

Nice communities down there, my daughter and her husband live just north of you in Pinellas County. There are several Creeker's in the Tampa Bay area.

[mike lucas]

I would use 2 layers of 3/4" MDF then a layer of 1/2" replacable hardwood top for looks, probably hard maple. This would last you a life time. And once the top starts looking bad, either sand it down and re-finish it, or replace it. My table is 8' 4" long and 7' 6" wide, with a working height of 37 1/2" I built my work/assembly table the way I discribed above. And with doors and or drawers on all 4 sides, it has tons of storage. I expect it to out last me and my kids.

[Bill Arnold]

Nice communities down there, my daughter and her husband live just north of you in Pinellas County. There are several Creeker's in the Tampa Bay area.I've met a couple of folks from the Knots Forum on FWW. Hopefully, I'll get to meet some of the local Creeker's soon.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

If I had not had access to the Pine, I would have gone with two layers of MDF and then a layer of 1/2" hardwood on top. BE sure to post pics as you go!

[Ken Salisbury]

Bill,


Welcome to The Creek !!

It should be noted that a direct link to your website is not permitted by the SMC Terms of Service. Please edit your signature information in your User CP to remove that link.

Thanks in advance.



http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/misc/moderator.gif

[Tim Leo]

Oak has tannins in it that will cause your iron and steel tools to corrode. Maple, pine or MDF might be a better alternative.

[Wes Simmons]

Building the right workbench can really make you think about what your needs are. A traditional woodworkers workbench with dual vices and bench dogs are nice if that is the type you need.

One of the nicest ones I have seen built recently was on an episode of Woodworks. David Marks built a great workbench on his show that was built out of MDF. Normally I would not have thought this would be strong enough but he built his as a torsion box and gave it tremendous strength and stability. He has since used it as his bench on later shows.

Check out the construction at http://www.diynet.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_26946,00.html

Good luck!

[Bill Arnold]

One of the nicest ones I have seen built recently was on an episode of Woodworks. David Marks built a great workbench on his show that was built out of MDF. Normally I would not have thought this would be strong enough but he built his as a torsion box and gave it tremendous strength and stability. He has since used it as his bench on later shows.

Actually, the torsion box David built on his show is for assembly and glue-up. The system of construction provides a dead-flat surface. No doubt, one could take elements of this form of construction and incorporate them into a workbench, but allowances need to be made for vises and dogs.

Regards,

[Andy Henriksen]

[QUOTE=
For Allen: If you are not going to use solid hardwood for the top, I would vote for two layers of MDF laminated together and then put a sacrificial layer of 1/4" Tempered hardboard on top, (held in place with a dab of hotmelt glue at each corner) and then band the whole thing with a hardwood of your choice.

Cheers, and Saw Safe..........Norm[/QUOTE]
I am in the midst of making a bench, too. Actually have the "frame" complete, and just need to make and attach the top. I was planning on the 2 layers of MDF with hardboard on top as well. My question is about the hot glue. will this technique keep the top as solid as I need. It just seems like it might be bouncy or loose, or slide back and forth a bit across the MDF. I guess the hardwood banding will help with lateral movement. Any reason the glue would be better than a few countersunk screws?

[Alan Turner]

Bill
Welcome aboard the Creek. Unlike some other forums, this one is always poitive and friendly.
Alan

[Bill Arnold]

Bill
Welcome aboard the Creek.
Alan
Thank you Alan. I wish I had more time to puruse the Forum but, alas, I must spend SOME time on my projects. Between trying to make a few things for show and keeping with my wife's requests, my days in the shop get kinda long at times. <G>

Regards,

[Ted Daigle]

Sounds like mine, a piece of plywood, 2 saw horses and the pickup tailgate for a butt rest.


Hey! You stole my workbench! Can't trust you Louisiana guys. :D

[John Bush]

Welcome Allen,
I had an old, damaged solid core door that I used instead of the MDF. I built a 6/4 maple frame with pinned box joint corners and one long side of maple 5" wide to support a tail vice and dog holes. I laminated the top surface of the door with 1/4" hardboard and designed it so I could replace the entire top as needed. It's worked well for 10 years and regular oiling keeps it looking good and anything from sticking. I made a heavy duty base out of scrap 3"x6" fir with M&T joinery and its a solid bench for planing as well as glue-ups and occasionally fixeing the mower. Good luck, John