Question about Lathe Setup

[Larry Feltner]

I am new to turning but have been saving and wanting a lathe for a long time. When Jet had the sale recently I finally decided to pull the trigger and bought a 1642. Keep in mind that I have no experience with a lathe at all so this might sound like a stupid question. The directions said to clean all surfaces with a degreaser. In the trouble shooting section it said that not getting all the grease off of the bed could cause some slippage of the tool rest, head stock, or tail stock. My question is should be bed surface be completely lubricant free. I was thinking that since the tool rest, etc., is slid along the bed that it would require some sort of lubricant. But there is no mention of this. Is it correct for there to be no lubrication at all on those surfaces? If that is the case, how do you prevent rust on those surfaces? Do you use the same things on the lathe bed to prevent rust as you use on other cast iron in your shop, paste wax, t-9, etc? And will those cause slippage problems? Thanks in advance for your help.

[steven carter]

Larry,

Welcome to the Creek and congratulations on your new lathe. I have the same one and I'm sure you will like it. I cleaned off the packing grease, but also either wax or use Boeshield t-9 on the ways to protect it, and have no problems with anything slipping. I think most people after cleaning off rust with some kind of abrasive, (I use a 3m pad) will wax the lathe bed. Looking forward to pictures of your lathe and future turnings.

Steve

[Steve Schlumpf]

Larry - Welcome to the Vortex! Like Steve - I also have the same lathe and have been using Johnson's paste wax as both a protectorate and lubricant for the bed.

Looking forward to seeing some of your work!

[Bill Bolen]

Like the others I use past wax on the lathe bed. For the tool rest I keep a block of parafin next to the lathe. When the tools aren't sliding on the rest the way I like I just reach for the parafin and give it a rub or 3. Quick and easy don't even turn the lathe off...Bill..

[Mike Peace]

A lot of folks just use some WD40 to wipe down the bed before starting turning for the day. And again at the end of the day if turning really wet wood, especially oak.

[Richard Madison]

Like Mike, I wipe the bed and bottom edges of the banjo with WD-40 and a paper towel from time to time. When turning really wet wood I protect the bed with a liberal coat of WD-40 or T-9, with plastic over that.

[Nick Mastropietro]

I too own the 1642 and use Renaissance Wax not only on my lathe ways but on all my cast tool surfaces. There are certainly other products that work well but this is it for me. Woodcraft among others sells it. I look for it when on sale, it can be a bit pricey but I think it's well worth it considering what I have spent on the tools.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Welcome to the turning world. I would make sure all grease is off the bed. I use like the other Johnson paste wax. IMHO Ren wax is just to expensive to be using on a bed. Every now and then I will take and spray some WD40 on my bed. Use a scotchbrite pad and clean it. I wipe it down and reapply a coat of paste wax. When it clouds up I wipe it down till next time.

[alex carey]

Dunno if this is wrong or right but its worked for me, every week or two I take some wd40 and scrub down the bed with a piece of 3m doodlebug. Take out any rust and make it shine like new. I never put anything else on it, never really had trouble moving anything. Then again i'm young and able bodied.

[Ryan Baker]

Johnson's paste wax (on all of the cast iron in the shop). You won't have any slipping. If you do, you need to tighten up the clamping nut on the bottom.

[Ernie Nyvall]

I certainly don't mean to beat-up on people who use WD40, because there are exceptions to just about everything, and climate may be a factor in it too, but if you use WD40, I'd like to add this. If you know that you will go a month without using your lathe, don't spray WD40 as a protector. It evaporates and will cause rust to start faster. Used every few days or as a helpful clean-up for a rust film it is great, but I'd get in the habit of wiping it off and then applying the paste wax as others have suggested.

[Richard Madison]

Good point by Ernie. If I knew I couldn't turn for a month or so, would give all bare metal a liberal coat of T-9, not WD-40.

[Ken Hensley]

I am another fan of Johnsons paste wax and have been using it on all cast iron surfaces since the 80's. Great rust preventative.

Ken

[Alan Trout]

The WD40 comment if very interesting. The Gun Zone did a test on corrosion and rust prevention against several other gun lubes a few years ago. What surprised them was WD 40 came out very good compared to some specialty gun lubes. When I had my machine shop I used it all the time. I have a high acid level in my sweat and I can rust a machine like crazy by just touching it. I always kept a can or pump bottle next to every machine and used it liberally. I still have a crankshaft in my garage that I turned over 15 years ago that was coated with WD40 and still no rust.

Basically the comment that WD40 causes rust is a myth that many still believe. I also agree that T9 is probably better but it is also about 10 times the cost.

What is boils down to is to use something when you store your machine. Most any lite lube or wax will help protect from moisture.

Good Luck

Alan

[GLENN THOMAS]

Larry,

I usually use break cleaner to clean the packing grease off cast iron tools. To me grease or WD40 just makes saw dust and shavings stick to everything. Usually after I clean the grease off Ill just use what ever automotive wax I have on hand and wax the bed of my lathe just like a car. Usually one coat of wax and the tail stock and banjo slide really easy. If the bed gets a little rusty then Ill use WD40 and steel wool to remove it, then break cleaner to remove the WD40 and then Ill wax. Be careful not to get the break cleaner on any plastic or rubber parts. Not trying to say this is the proper way, just my way.

GT

[Eric Jacobson]

Hi Larry. I'm a fellow newbie. I want to add the Johnson's Paste Wax did not protect my new lathe from rust. I kept applying it per people's instructions only to find the bed of my brand new PM continued to cover itself with rust. I wish I had a picture to share with you. I almost wept one time it was so bad. I would carefully clean it off with Naval Jelly, apply more Johnson's Paste Wax and the darn thing would rust within a week.

I keep my PM in an unfinished garage here in Georgia where we've had above average rain fall since last November. It has rained hard nearly every week.

After some research I picked up some Boeshield T-9 from Highland Hardware and after one simple sprayed on coat that I let dry, I haven't seen rust in about three months. Stuff seems to slide around fine on the bed too. I'm sure most people's shop conditions are way better than mine. But just in case, I thought I would pass that on. Good luck!

[Sherwood Smith]

I am new to turning but have been saving and wanting a lathe for a long time. When Jet had the sale recently I finally decided to pull the trigger and bought a 1642. Keep in mind that I have no experience with a lathe at all so this might sound like a stupid question. The directions said to clean all surfaces with a degreaser. In the trouble shooting section it said that not getting all the grease off of the bed could cause some slippage of the tool rest, head stock, or tail stock. My question is should be bed surface be completely lubricant free. I was thinking that since the tool rest, etc., is slid along the bed that it would require some sort of lubricant. But there is no mention of this. Is it correct for there to be no lubrication at all on those surfaces? If that is the case, how do you prevent rust on those surfaces? Do you use the same things on the lathe bed to prevent rust as you use on other cast iron in your shop, paste wax, t-9, etc? And will those cause slippage problems? Thanks in advance for your help.

Old thread I know. I see no one mentioned Break Free as a protectant, I have some around from my shooting days and think I'll investigate and see how it works.



Originally developed for manufacturers of heavy automatic military cannon to keep their weapons working under long and sustained fire during battle.
Secret formula contains specially polymerized synthetic oils for improved boundary film strength, plus multiple anti-wear and extreme pressure additives to reduce friction, stop build-up of foreign particles, and inhibit rust and corrosion of all metal.
Consistent cyclic rates are maintained and gun actions operate smoother and easier even under adverse conditions and extended firing periods.
Replaces grease and heavy viscosity lubes.
Ideal for all firearms from semi-automatic to military/police assault weapons. Great for polymer composition automatics. Prevent galling on stainless steel and other exotic gunmetals including titanium.
Doesn't dry out, harden, solidify or attract metal fines and other contaminants. Always stays in bearing area to lubricate.
Environmentally safer and user friendly. ( But I now see its expensive to get by the gallon )

[Rick Markham]

Clean off the packing grease and get to turning! My bed and ways just get wiped down with WD40 every couple weeks. But mine lives in climate controlled turning heaven :)

[Dennis Simmons]

slick 50 one lube is a product, that will leave a protective film, and not be greasy, it last a long time and works well on all machined areas, table saws, band saws, lathes, etc. I love this stuff. it will out do WD 40.
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/lube/slick-50/1-lube/prd_352371_131crx.aspx

[charlie knighton]

i am another wd-40 user, but thanks to Ernie i will add the paste wax from now on, congratulations on the lathe