Why is router not near the back of a router table?

[Doug Hobkirk]

Whew - what an awkward title, but it approximates my question. Almost all router table plans that I've seen have the center of the router located almost in the front-to-back middle of the table - typically within an inch of the center point, slightly closer to the rear. So, typing as I think about this...


A router table top is typically around 22 x 32 (at least that's the size of my top)
My fence is about 5" deep
The front of the fence would never be farther back than the midpoint of the router (correct?)
So the midpoint of the router could be 5-6" from the rear (compared to a typical 10" from the rear), giving me an extra 4-5" in front for more work space
The dust collection hose would extend beyond the back of the table but there needs to be clearance for the hose that runs to the compartment under the router anyway

So why are the routers located so close to the center line? Is it just to accommodate some of the elaborate fence systems?

The weather in the Boston area is supposed to be dry and warm this weekend - I plan on carving up my phenolic faced plywood top to house my Bosch router and some T-tracks. I've studied the "ultimate router table" article in FWW plus several other plans. I have a usable base cabinet from my old router table but I may make a slightly grander new base. Thanks

[Michael Peet]

The front of the fence would never be farther back than the midpoint of the router (correct?)



Doug, I don't have a router table but it seems to me you could rout a dado down the middle of a board, for example, which would require the fence be set back further than the centerline of the bit.

I only imagine this because lately I have been wishing I had a router table for this reason :).

Mike

[Dave Sweeney]

One reason could be that there would be more area to support the work piece when routing free hand without the use of a fence.

[Drew Eckhardt]

The front of the fence would never be farther back than the midpoint of the router (correct?)


Incorrect.

1) The fence can be quite far back if you're cutting dadoes, grooves, etc.

2) The fence can be removed completely for bearing or bushing guided template/pattern work.

[Mike Cutler]

Doug

I think that is just a good compromise position for "general" projects.
My router table is 24"x 48" and the router is at about 16" from the front of the table and in the middle from the sides.
Most of what I do would be considered fairly large and a "regular" router table just wasn't big enough, even mounted in my table saw extension wing. I can slide an 8/4 x15" x12' board across my router with control and nothing moves. It's a tank.

Build them to suit.

[Charles Krieger]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/f:My router table is made from an old secretarial desk return (double sided laminate 1 1/4" thick). It is 30" x 70" with one end rounded. The router center point is 12" from the front edge. I have never regretted making it big or solid.

I sometimes use an Incra positioner on the fence which requires lots of space behind the fence. Being able to position the fence well behind the bit is great for making groves in wide cabinet pieces. The length helps handle long work pieces.

When I first built the the table I thought I might shorten it to conserve shop space but it has been so enjoyable to use in its present form that I have decided that it should be left alone.

[Myk Rian]

So why are the routers located so close to the center line? Is it just to accommodate some of the elaborate fence systems?
Not so much an elaborate fence, but ANY fence.

[Tom Esh]

Rear is fine if you only do edge work, however maybe not so convenient if for example you want to rout a dado on a face. In that case you would need to be able to reverse the fence or clamp on a makeshift one and work from the opposite side of the table. Nothing wrong with that as long as you can reach the power switch.:D

[Chip Lindley]

We leave room between the router centerline, and rear of table just in case! It is hard to think of every scenario before building your router table. But, it is better to have extra space than none at all one day in the future.

My RT is actually in the 36" extension of my TS with 50" fence. The router centerline is 14" from the outboard edge. I have lots of room to the rear, yet the router is close enough to the table edge for working comfortably.

[Keith Weber]

If you want to cut dovetails using the Incra system, you need a lot of room behind the router.

[Charles Krieger]

You are right. I have used the Incra System to cut dovetails and it does take a lot of room even for a nominal (say six inch) width board. The Incra system does work well and I use it a lot.

[Roy Wall]

You are right. I have used the Incra System to cut dovetails and it does take a lot of room even for a nominal (say six inch) width board. The Incra system does work well and I use it a lot.

Charles --

Seriously NICE RT....excellent work!!!

[Anthony Whitesell]

When you think of all the types and places you'll cut with a router, there isn't a perfect spot for the router placement. I'll even through a worse situation into the mix...an Incra (Indexing) Fence system. They tend to require a large deep area behind the router. With that said, my table is 24 x 36 and I opted to put my router in the center front-to-back and about 1/4 from left-to-right. This arrangement allows me to run pieces from any of the four sides. There is no front or back to speak of. The fence can be attached from any side. Most of the time I use the table standing at the right end using it 24"W x 36"D instead of 36"Wx24"D. I just ran into a situation where I need the extra table in front of the bit due to edge routing a very wide piece. I took the fence off, turned the table around, put the fence on, and ran the piece. No problems.