What Finish For Table Top??

[Matthew Curtis]

What Finish For Table Top??

[Phil Phelps]

What Finish For Table Top??

Formica.
Seriously Matthew, what kind of wood? Dining table, end table, coffee table? Do you plan to spray, brush? Just a little more info will help with the answer.

[Louie Ballis]

I like tung oil (ez repair) or 1 part blo, 1 part poly, 1 part napthla homemade mixture.

I plan on using some danish oil on my most current project (just cause I have never used it and read some good reviews on it).

[Howard Acheson]

As Phil as indicated, more info is required. How is the table to be used? Is it a fine table or an everyday kitchen table?

Is it a new table that is unfinished or have you stripped off the old finish? Do you plan to stain the clear coat?

[Chris Hudson42]

My 'standard' finish for Cherry tops has been a Danish Oil, or a phenolic varnish, tung oil, mineral spirtits combinaton. Easy to apply and repair.

My latest cherry table is a small version of Norm's Butler's Table. I was concerned that my 'usual' would not be durable enough. But I definitely wanted something also easily repairable.

I ended up using Deft Clear Wood Finish - pretty much a nitrocellulose lacquer. (Gloss - NOT any of the Satin or whatever that has silica in it)

I first sealed with a dewaxed shellac washcoat (Zinnser)

I brushed the first lacquer coat - not worrying too much about brushmarks - as I planned on using the 'pullover' technique for final smoothing. Not much seems to be around on this technique - but there is a video on the FWW website by Sean Clarke showing it. (You need to be a 'member' to access it unfortunately. But you can get a 'Free 14-day Trial' to do so.) It seems the technique may be more popular in the UK and Australia than the US/Canada.

The technique partially dissolves the very top of the finish, reflowing it, using 'Pullover Solvent'. Clarke used a Mylands product - which is available via telephone order to the Mylands US Distributor.

However, I found that a mixture of about 2/3 ethyl alcohol (ethanol) and 1/3 lacquer thinner (I had Crown) works just as well as the Mylands, IMHO.

While I brushed on the first coat, I found out thru experience it is NOT a good idea to brush on the second etc. The second coat redissolves the first, making a brush-mark laden mess. Use spray for subsequent coats. (and don't worry too much about orangepeel, though runs and gobs should be avoided)

Don't sand - you don't need to. Brush, pullover, spray, pullover, spray, pullover, spray, pullover. Thats it.

I think you will end up with a brilliant smooth gloss finish that really shows off the wood - particularly if the top is first finished smooth by hand planing and not sandpaper.

Maybe try first on some scrap, though..:)

Chris

[Joe Chritz]

For general use items I use Target USL (now EM6000) for a spray finish or with waterlox or Behlen's rockhard for a wiping finish.

There are a lot of great finishes available and a major choice is dependent on how you plan on applying it and your skill level.

Joe