Router Table Issues

[Jaze Derr]

I recently got my first router and table, used. The router is a little black and decker 1 3/4 plunge router, and the table is a wolfcraft stand.

Here are the issues I'm having problems with:
1) The plunge mechanism on the router is very sticky. I've taken the router out of the table and applied WD-40 to the rods and springs, which helped a little. What else can I do to make the router move smoothly instead of suddenly slamming down after not moving when I push on it?

2) From the bit of fiddling around I've done with the table, it looks like I can only get a 1/2" worth of bit height. The plunge router has a 2" depth, so I'm losing 1 1/2" in the table? that seems excessive to me. I need this bit (5/8" straight bit) to reach a 1" height above the table for me to use it on the project I want to. Otherwise, I have to build a jig and clumsily try to hand-rout tenons on the ends. Not something I want to do, but I will if I have to.

How can I get more bit height? How much bit height can you get from your table/router?

Never used a router before in my life before last week, so any tips would be appreciated.

[Lex Boegen]

I bought a Router Raizer for my Makita plunge router. It took a couple of hours to install, but it lets me raise and lower the router from above the table with a hex wrench. They make Router Raizers for lots of different routers, but I don't know if your particular model is one of them. Another thing that I like about the Router Raizer is that I can still remove the router from the table and use it hand-held. It is useable either way without further modification.

You can get an extension chuck to put in your router. You insert it like a bit, and then put the bit into the extension chuck. It will allow you to use the full depth of your bits when the router is mounted in the table. Another advantage is now you don't need two wrenches to change bits--just a hex wrench.

[Myk Rian]

Take the springs out of it.

[Heather Thompson]

Jaze,

I was not familiar with the Wolfcraft router stand so did a web search, found what I think you have at Amazon (Wolfcraft 6146-404 router table 490). According to one of the reviews "you mount the router on a special plastic plate/disc which is then recesses mounted into the MDF table top. This means you loose approx. half the height of the router bit due to the thickness of the mounting disc + MDF table. This can be a problem for some or in some applications".
My router plate is 3/8" aluminum, actually a router lift and I can bring the collet a full inch above the plate to facilitate bit changes, the plate drops in from above the table and rests an a lip in the table.

As far as the router is concerned I would shy away from WD40 as this will attract sawdust and compound the sticking problem, if you can disassemble the sliding mechanism that would be great, clean thoroughly and inspect for any damage. Then lubricate with dry lube, I like White Lightning(used for bike chains), then reassemble. Hope this helps. I am actually your next door neighbor, live in Carol Stream.

Heather

[Jim Rimmer]

You may not want to cut into your exisiting table but soemthing like this would eliminate the loss due to the MDF: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21299&filter=router%20plates
You may want to shop around. I was surprised at the price at Rockler.

[Greg Hines, MD]

A couple of suggestions. First, I would take it apart, clean the insides and the springs, and lube with White Lithium Grease. This goes on wet, and when dry, keeps the dust from sticking. Second, if you are still having trouble, remove one of the springs. This will make it easier to adjust while still being able to have some control.

I know that the guys from the Router Workshop remove both springs, but when I did that, I found it more bothersome, so putting one back in has done well for me.

Doc

[Tom Hammond]

WD-40 is not a lubricant. You actually probably made the problem worse. Clean it, then use a real lubricant if it is really necessary.

[Jaze Derr]

Thank you for all your responses. I didn't realize that WD-40 was a bad way to go.

I went out and bought a halfway decent router with both a fixed and a plunge base, so I can leave the fixed in the table.

I think this will solve most of my problems, and I can clean up and keep the little router for a spare.

And, really...do we need a reason to go buy a new tool? :)

And /wave to Heather! It's nice to see another woman on these forums. Sometimes I feel VERY out of place. It's worse in motorcycle forums, though :) And yes, you are a hop, skip and a jump away.

[Myk Rian]

You may not want to cut into your exisiting table but soemthing like this would eliminate the loss due to the MDF: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21299&filter=router%20plates
You may want to shop around. I was surprised at the price at Rockler.
Or at HF.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331

[Jim Rimmer]

Or at HF.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331
The phenolic ones work well. I prefer the aluminum. I have a Rockler plate but I didn't pay what they have them at now. MLCS has them http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html and a lot of guys here buy from them.
And here's a discussion of phenolic versus aluminum right here on the Creek (I found it googling router plates). www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31568