Question on bansaw tuning, re: blade drift

[Craig Hemsath]

I recently 'inherited' a 9" Craftsman band saw (grandpa got a new 14", so I got this on). I'm about to the end of my skills in getting this thing to run true.

It's a saw that has a bearing behind the blade & two little adjustable blocks on either side of the blade.

I've played around with it for quite some time yesterday & it still drifts away from the wheel.

Is there anything else I can try, I'm running the stock 1/4" blade (isn't helping matters), tried feeding fairly slow, etc. Right now, it's basically unusable.

[glenn bradley]

A pic would help. The age of the 9" saw would clarify the maker and configuration. All that being said; so many things are "built to scale" on many smaller saws that hopes of large saw performance may lead only to frustration.

I have a 1970's Rockwell/Delta 10" machine with plastic wheels :eek:. Obviously the saw's ability to tension a blade is restricted. I get reasonable results from it with only a little tuning and running decent quality blades. I wouldn't try to use a fence and rip a 2 x 4 with it and expect a finished edge; its just not made to do that. The saw does great at curves in thinner stock. I have cut arcs in 8/4 on it very slowly.

Some clarification of 'drifts away from the wheel' may help get some better suggestions. Are we talking about a bowed cut? One that enters and exits the material at about the same point but is not perpendicular to the table? The guides should only be a bit above the material when cutting. that is; as close to the entrance point as possible while not restricting your movements.

My smaller saw has bearing guides but, an older 12" saw had the blocks you describe. "Cool Blocks (http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2000904/Cool-Blocks-Bandsaw-Blade-Guide-Blocks.aspx)" allow you to set the guides close enough to touch the blade without problems. This stabilized a 12" saw I had in the past. Shop made hardwood blocks can do well too.

[Myk Rian]

Put a new blade on it.

[Craig Hemsath]

Thanks Glenn. Those blocks are exactly what the guides look like- and I have them set as close to the stock as possible. And by 'drifting away from the wheel' I mean that as I cut, the blade consistently pulls to the right (or pulls out of the 'circle' of blade). Just trying to cut some scrap, it'll pull out to the point of stalling the machine.

[Chip Lindley]

I'll take a wild stab at it. First apply more tension to the blade. I just crank the tension up until it feels really stiff. Until another turn of the crank might break the blade. Others have more scientific recipes for blade tensioning, but mine works for me!

Forget trying to make the wood go straight with the fence. Each blade has it's own *lead* to one side or the other. Draw a pencil line down the 3/4" thick edge of a 2" wide board. Begin to follow the line as best you can while sawing free-hand. after 6" to 12" of cutting, you should see which direction the board is headed. This is the angle at which your fence should also be set. Then you should be able to cut along a straight line using the fence.

[Curt Harms]

I'd try a new blade. A 9" saw isn't going to equal the performance of a Laguna or Minimax but a good blade will help it do all its capable of. A few reputable sources that aren't too expensive for what you get:



Suffolk Machinery for Timberwolf blades www.timberwolf1.com. If you call them and tell them what kind of saw you have and what you want to do, they'll recommend a blade or blades.



Woodcraft Bands. These guys are not associated with the Woodcraft stores AFAIK. www.woodcraftbands.com



If you could find a local saw or tool sharpening place that makes bands using Lenox or Starrett band stock, they can make any length you need.

I doubt this saw would tension a 1/2" band so I would guess 1/4" or 3/8" is as wide as you can go. Sears/Home Depot/Lowes is probably going to be carrying "affordable" bands, not necessarily good bands. Good luck with your new-to-you saw.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

The guides adjust how far back or forward the blade is in relation to the wheels. Almost all wood bandsaw wheels have a crown on them. this is what creates the "drift". Spin the wheels by hand and see where the blade is on the wheel, too far to the back, the blade will track out, and the reverse is true. Adjust the guide so the blade is centered on the crown. Getting a new blade should help, since each blade may be different. Once set up. it should be okay. Also you need to check if both wheels are in the same plane. If not, then you'll have to adjust them.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks Glenn. Those blocks are exactly what the guides look like- and I have them set as close to the stock as possible. And by 'drifting away from the wheel' I mean that as I cut, the blade consistently pulls to the right (or pulls out of the 'circle' of blade). Just trying to cut some scrap, it'll pull out to the point of stalling the machine.

Given that behavior, I have heard of the following work-around. . .

- Draw a straight line down the middle of a squared-up piece of scrap.
- Cut the scrap for about 6" or so while following the line and stop your machine without removing the material.
- Align your fence to the (assumed) angled line of the edge of the scrap caused by the drift.
- Cuts should now theoretically be parallel to the fence.

HTH.

[Howard Klepper]

I believe he is talking about getting the blade to track on the wheels; not about the blade leading when cutting.

Get the wheels as close to coplanar as possible. Check the condition of the tires and whether they have an even crown. Adjust blade tension correctly.

Then you may end up throwing the saw away; there's a good chance that a 9" Craftsman is not usable.