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James Farrow
11-09-2004, 4:37 PM
Hi!

Can anyone recommend an average priced (not expensive) hollowing tool?

I looked around but there are a variety of types (cutters, scrapers) and it
is kinda confusing. Which is better? Cutting? Scraping?

For Vases, Hollow Forms, etc.. with depths of maybe up to 6 or 7 inches.

Kinda nervous using a gouge at that depth and diameter (1 or 2 inched) so figure some sort of hollowing tool is needed.

Or am I better off drilling with a "spade bit" or "auger bit" or?

Thanks,

James :)

Jack Hogoboom
11-09-2004, 5:45 PM
James,

I just bought some hollowing tools directly from David Ellsworth. $75 plus postage for two tools, one for the center and one for the sides. You have to make your own handles, but if you're doing hollow forms, you can handle that. His website is www.ellsworthsudios.com. He also happens to be a heck of a nice guy.

Jack

Jim Becker
11-09-2004, 6:58 PM
The Sorby Hollowmaster is a nice basic tool, but the Stewart system (or similar) is a better long-term choice for a hand-held tool. But if you are like most folks who enjoy hollowing but become weary of the stress...at some point down the road you'll move to a captive hollowing system like the Jamison that I use. But everyone should learn to hollow with a basic tool first.

BTW, for very small hollow vessels, homemade tools are easy to make. And David Ellsworth, who Jack mentions, even started hollowing small items with ground allen wrenches....:D

James Farrow
11-09-2004, 8:25 PM
Thanks Guys!

Have been checking out those suggestions and have a question.

Those types of tools fit down a, say, 1" or 2" hole?

Seem kinda risky for catches or worse.

James :)

Jim Becker
11-09-2004, 9:38 PM
Those types of tools fit down a, say, 1" or 2" hole?
James, if you are talking about hollow vessels with narrow necks, the tools are based on small scrapers. They are also optimized for end-grain turnings which is what is done the majority of the time for such objects.

James Farrow
11-09-2004, 10:18 PM
I am not sure we are talking about the same thing. I mean a 1" or 2" hole
all the way down from the top to the bottom. Like a tube. I have seen hollowed out forms that people use the hollowers for but that's not what I am thinking of. Would I still use the same type of hollower?

Thanks,

James :)

Jim Becker
11-09-2004, 10:21 PM
LOL! For that I'd use a forstner bit in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock...or a square nose scraper. But it's also doable with a straight hollowing tool which is just a small scraper. BTW, just to make you chuckle, scrapers don't "scrape", they cut. The sharp edge which normally has a "burr" on it just takes very tiny shavings... :D

James Farrow
11-09-2004, 11:29 PM
Thanks!

Would a "spade bit" work as well as the forstner bit?

James :)

Jim Becker
11-10-2004, 9:23 AM
Would a "spade bit" work as well as the forstner bit?
It must be very, very sharp, but it will cut. Forstner would be cleaner, but you'll be fine. I assume you're making end-grain weed pots, or something like that. They are great for working on your forms and popular with people who you may give or sell them to.

James Farrow
11-10-2004, 9:39 AM
Thanks!

Sorry, asked the wrong question. I meant to say "auger bit" instead of
spade bit. I found some that are 9" long. I assume they will work also?

As for a Jacobs Chuck will they all take various size bits?

The auger bits that Lee Valley has don't indicate the shank size so am not sure which chuck would be the right one.

Actually had a type of vase in mind. One with a splayed open top (like a funnel).

James :)

Jim Becker
11-10-2004, 9:54 AM
I do not recommend an auger bit for this purpose...a spade bit, twist bit or a forstner bit cut better, cleaner and easier. Augers are "construction" tools, IMHO. A Jacobs chuck mounted on an Morse Taper that fits in your tailstock is what you need to hold the bit, although some turners use long twist bits with handles to drill manually...I'm not comfortable with that. You must back the bit out frequently when cutting and you also need to be sure your lathe is setup accurately...the spindle center and tail stock center need to be "right on". (Put a drive center in the headstock and a live center in the tailstock...bring them to gether and lock the tailstock in place. The points should touch...at the points)

For your vase, you really should be cutting the inside with traditional hollowing tools, although you could cheat with a drill bit to start things out. Many folks also find that a pilot hole drilled to near-final depth in the center of a bowl or vessel helps them avoid breaking through as well as reduces catching at the center when learning to turn. Even experienced turners will drill the center to depth on a form that would be challenging to accurately determine bottom depth.

Richard Allen
11-10-2004, 10:01 AM
There are a variety of different auger bits. Some have a straight shank, some have a hex shank and some have a shank that is oddly shaped but the perfect shape for using in a brace. Most auger bits have a lead screw.

James Farrow
11-10-2004, 10:23 AM
Thanks!

Will check out the spade bits and a chuck.

James :)