My choice - planes

[lowell holmes]

There has been a lot of discussion about different types and brands of handplanes in this forum lately.

I had to smooth the tops for two shaker tables I am building. I think the pictures below tell the story. :)

The jack had a 38 degree iron, the smoother had the 50 degree iron.
Both irons had micro-bevels and back bevels. They were honed to 8000 on a Norton water stone.

[Rick Erickson]

Lowell, what is the reason for the back bevel on bevel up planes?

[lowell holmes]

Rick, a number of years ago, when Veritas introduced the apron plane, Robin Lee posted on recreational woodworking that a back bevel on the apron plane would improve it's performance. I tried it and the plane did perform better. Recently a lot has been written about back bevels and the ruler trick. I'm not sure what it does, but for me, it works.

I'm not suggesting any type of plane or method of sharpening is superior.

I think it may be that a straighter cutting edge is achieved. The bevel is so small, it doesn't take much effort to eliminate it.

[Rick Erickson]

Gotcha - I was thinking some larger. I didn't realize you were referring to the ruler trick. Thanks for the clarification.

[Johnny Kleso]

Back Bevel lowers your cutting edge's included angle and helps it stay sharp longer..
Also makes it eaiser to shaper the back side edge..

[Don Dorn]

Lots of opinions on this - I understand the logic that it's faster to use the ruler trick to get that tiny area behind the cutting edge polished, but it needs repeating each time sharpened. I personally have done away with it and doubt that I'd ever go back to it.

I now invest the time when I get the blade to polish at least an inch or two on the back of the blade. Yes, it takes more time, but since I only buy LV, LN or Hock blades, they are alreday flat and only need some polish. Once that is done, I never have to deal with the back again. Then, when it comes time to freshen up a blade that's beginning to dull, I simply draw the bevel back on a 1200 stone about 7 or 8 times before I get a burr, then I switch to the 8000 and repeat, but doing it 10-12 times to ensure I've polished the sharpening bevel (usually 5 degrees).

When done, which is about a minute, I remove it from the jig and polish the burr off the back (which continutes to polish to back in the process) and it's good to go. I've found this method gives an edge that effortlessly cuts receipt paper nearly in half with one swoop. Maybe it could be sharper, but it certainly gives me a good and long lasting edge without a ruler. Not saying the ruler trick is bad, but not using it actually SAVES me time.

[lowell holmes]

That's what is great about this pastime. Different views prevail. :)

I polish the back of all my plane irons and chisels. You could shave using them for a mirror.

However, when I start pushing the 50 degree iron, the back bevel eases the force required dramatically.

I often hone my edged tools free hand with good results, but when setting up the 50 degree iron, I use the honing guide.