When all is going well....this has to happen

[Kevin Blunt]

Hello everyone,

I was just cleaning off my tablesaw to put it away for the night and as I shifted the blade wrenches over a bit I heard a lound clang as my table insert hit the floor. :( It cracked right at the bridge piece that separates the splitter from the blade.

I am wondering if this can be fixed with some sort of adhesive or something. The good thing is that the crack fits nicely back together and leaves no edge that would cause any interference while using the table insert. I generally use zero clearance inserts but when cutting a bevelled cut I need this insert. I contacted black and decker:rolleyes: to find out about a replacement part and they want $60 plus tax and shipping.

Anyone have any ideas of how to repair this crack. I am thinking along the lines of JB WELD or some sort of very strong construction adhesive. The JB WELD seems to be more up this alley though.

I appreciate your thoughts and ideas.

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii184/arenaranger/IMG_3351-2.jpg

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii184/arenaranger/IMG_3344.jpg

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii184/arenaranger/IMG_3350.jpg

[Neil Brooks]

When a project is right up the J-B Weld alley ... I've had really good luck with it.

This one seems, to me, to be right up J-B Weld's alley.

I'd give it a shot.

[Dave Lehnert]

JB weld should do the trick. If not, A sheet of plywood will make all the table inserts you will ever need.

[Philip Johnson]

not sure if that is pot metal or aluminium but it could be welded if you know a good welder.

[Myk Rian]

Another vote for JB weld. Heck of a lot cheaper than running someone down to try and weld it.
Plywood inserts are easy to make. 1/2" BB ply is all you need.

[Mike Wellner]

Woodcraft I believe have these plastic inserts, just turn it on and crank the blade up.

[Terry Hatfield]

JB weld should do fine or you could always just make an insert with a wider slot.

t

[Chris Padilla]

Time to make your own ZCI (zero clearance insert) and get rid of that one that causes tear out! :)

[Bill Pitz]

I generally use zero clearance inserts but when cutting a bevelled cut I need this insert.

I think he's got the ZCI thing down.

[Jim Rimmer]

I would use JB Weld. You've got nothing to lose.

[Kevin Blunt]

I think he's got the ZCI thing down.

Bill is correct, I regularly use zero clearance for almost ALL my cutting but sometimes there is a need for the regular insert. This was one of those times and Murphy was standing right behind me.

Anyway, I have done a little repair that included me using my dremel tool to clean up the paint in the area around the crack. I then applied the JB Weld to the crack and built it up a little bit underneath where it is not interfering with the blade. I will keep you posted about how this works.

Thanks for the input guys.

Kevin

[george wilson]

Any glue depends upon a large surface area to be effective. You have very little surface area there,so I doubt it would hold long. In the end,it's just epoxy,and its chief benefit is that it will stand pretty high temperatures.

Use the cracked insert for a template and make a plywood insert.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Got a plunge router? If so, make a ZCI, and open up the blade slot.

[Terry Sparks]

Got a plunge router? If so, make a ZCI, and open up the blade slot.

Or you could make the plywood insert, clamp it down, crank the blade to what ever angle you need/want and raise the blade.

[glenn bradley]

Yeah, this would be the time to knock out a half dozen ZCI blanks alright. JB Weld should do the trick but I only use my original throat plate when doing beveled cuts other than 45*. I have ZCI's for all other blades and their uses including a 45*.

[george wilson]

I just crank the blade through the throat plate like Terry. Easy,accurate,and fast.

[Chip Lindley]

Concerning the original query of the OP on how to best FIX this metal blade insert, JB Weld is your best bet.

The broken parts can be locked together by drilling a few small holes through the metal on either side of the break. This will allow the JB to form a bond all the way through the metal, rather than just on the surface. Unless you drop the insert again, the bond will be very secure.