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View Full Version : Why do we use router plate inserts



Robert Reece
03-25-2010, 6:32 PM
What is the problem with mounting my router directly to the top and simply making provisions for the rings that you typically see as part of a plate package?

Is it simply that an Aluminum or phenolic plate can be thinner (typically 3/8" than the top itself (3/4")? That would give you 3/8" more bit travel above the table.

The reason I ask is that I have a PC 7539 plunge router that is currently mounted directly to the top. It's of course a pain in the butt to adjust up and down because I am fighting the plunge spring and gravity. I can remedy that with a product called router raizer.

The only other thing I miss is having the adjustable rings to use. But I could easily make the requiremed adjustments to the table to use a set of rings. For that matter I could make my own rings.

I'm just wondering what I am missing by not using the plate.

Gerry Grzadzinski
03-25-2010, 6:47 PM
I have a 7518 mounted to one plate and a 690 mounted to another. I use them for handheld work as well as table work. The additional size of the plate actually give me more control, and rarely gets in the way. The bases are also nice for sliding along a fence clamped in place.

Adam Strong
03-25-2010, 6:57 PM
I use them to make set-up easier... no need for a lift when I can bring the whole assembly up top and set my bit height, drop it in and it's ready to go.

Jason Varner AF
03-25-2010, 7:27 PM
I have this router lift on my to do list. The plan uses a hinged top, so you could get away with having only a hole in the top for the bit and not have to have a plate.
http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/projects/archive/2008/07/09/Router-Lift.aspx

Robert Reece
03-25-2010, 8:55 PM
Thanks for that link Jason. That is a great idea.

Myk Rian
03-25-2010, 9:02 PM
When mounted to the table;
A. You lose a lot of height adjustment.
B. Need a larger bit? Open the hole.
C. Need a smaller bit? Too bad. You have to live with the bigger hole.

Remove the spring/s in your plunge base for table use.

Chip Lindley
03-25-2010, 9:41 PM
My main issue ever, with mounting router directly beneath table was lack of height to change the bit. With P-C 690s or larger 7518s I could remove the motor to change bits. With a 7539 plunger you are stuck with what protrudes above the table. A plunger would not be my first choice for a table-mount. But, since you already have it, the crank mechanism you mention will help a lot.

I finally acquired a JessEm router lift because it was such a bargain on CL! ($100) If I had to pay list, I would still being using a table-mounted P-C base as I always have for over 20 years!

Glen Butler
03-25-2010, 9:43 PM
Need a smaller bit? Too bad. You have to live with the bigger hole.

Sadly this is what you get with the newer bench dog plastic insert garbage. There is no point using them cause they aren't even as thick as the recess is deep. It never bothered me until recently when I was running some smaller parts that tipped into the insert. Curse you bench dog for changing what used to be the perfect router lift.

Sorry for the rant, I still like my bench dog lift overall.

I would think it awefully inconvenient to not have a lift that so easily and accurately sets the bit height.

Bruce Wrenn
03-25-2010, 9:55 PM
Robert, Pat Warner doesn't recommend a router plate. While you are looking at the Router Razor, look at their Extreme Extension. I'm planning to use both on a DeWalt 625 in a table.

Rich Johnson
03-25-2010, 9:59 PM
Well you dont. And why spend $300+ on a lift. Its all about choice and what you like. Summerfeld's table is aluminum no plate. Use the Triton router and you dont need a lift either. So his setup is a little more but without the need of a plate or a lift is it really?

Food for thought.

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/

Nathan Callender
03-25-2010, 10:13 PM
I mounted my first router to a home made table directly. I could change bits underneath and for a $20 investment in materials it was functional and let me build some fun stuff. I stored it in a really hot environment and it warped, so I'm now setting up a new router setup which will have a plate. The only reason for the plate is to let me take the router out of the table much more easily.

Now, if you are going to put it in a real table that's enclosed or not easily accessible from below, then get an insert plate!

tyler mckenzie
03-25-2010, 11:08 PM
I use a lift because it doesn't get any better then this http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=131182 .. well it could if i had more room in the shop..

Greg Scull
03-26-2010, 12:15 AM
Just finished mounting my router to my temporary extension table and it works great! Admittedly I and am just getting started so someday I'm sure Ill wish I had the extra 1/2" my direct mounting took away, and the ability to change bits above the table. But I have a Bosch router which has a very quick disconnect and it's been really easy to use so far, even with reaching under the table to adjust the height. I also figured that should I ever want a plate I can still add it :)! Now all I need to do is make those jig's I promised myself to have a nice router fence attached to the unifence with dc built in, and add the router miter track and ....

Tim Put
03-26-2010, 2:35 AM
Mounted to the underside, inlaid into the tabletop using the very router to be mounted. That way you don't lose much depth, and even 3/8" mdf won't sag much over a few inch wide circular span, as opposed to something ~9"x~11".

Myk Rian
03-26-2010, 7:23 AM
For $20 you can get a plate at HF.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331

Dave MacArthur
03-27-2010, 1:24 AM
Someone already mentioned it, but Pat Warner www.patwarner.com doesn't recommend router plates. A short blurb from his front page which shouldn't infringe:
"In my view, the simplest way to manage the router table router is to turn a 5625 (Milwaukee) upside down and bolt its base casting to a well stressed, thin (5/8" in my case) piece of unclad MDF. Leave the big cutters to the shaper and keep the cutter hole to ~ 2". There will be ample depth reach with either a PC 7518 (>2.75") or the Milwaukee. That is the simplest and most practical approach to router table routing."

Myk Rian
03-27-2010, 8:12 AM
Yeah, well not everyone has a shaper. If Pat Warner has one, good for him. I sure don't.
I don't really consider him the consummate expert either, especially with a statement like that.
EDIT: I stand by my words.