Festool MFT 1080 Quick Review

[Jim Becker]

One of the things I put in the shop not long ago is the Festool MFT 1080 (Multi Function Table). This is a nice little setup that provides the means to guide a saw and router across material in a very controlled fashion. My intended in-shop use is for dados on casework, such as bookshelves, as well as cross cutting material too wide for the CMS and too long for the TS. "On site" uses are similar. It will also provide some additional workspace for assembly and clamping from time to time, but is easily stored away when not needed.

The MFT is a worksurface that holds both a fence and the guide rail for various Festool machines. While it's likely used for cuts/dados at 90º to the workpiece edge most of the time, the fence can be set to any angle. That, combined with the plunge saw's ability to cut bevels right on the guide line no matter what the angle, offers some very interesting compound angle cutting possibilities. The rail flips up on a hinge for easy placement of the stock and for times when you want to use the surface for other duties. The legs fold up for storage for for times when you want to put the whole assembly on another surface. The work surface is at about 32 inches in height when the table is sitting on the legs which should be comfortable for most folks when sawing or routing dados.

Setup was easy and the MFT was almost dead-on right out of the box (a very large box, I might add) relative to the perpendicular angle of the fence and the guide rail. This is a nice addition to anyone who wants to use the saw and router(s) for casework in the shop and on-site. It's well-built, but light enough at 73 lbs that most people can handle it easily.

Pics:

1) Fully assembled and ready to go. View from the right side.
2) View from the front.
3) View from the front with the guide raised.
4) Trimming the guide edge and scoring the table for the cut line.

[Greg Mann]

Jim,

I had posted pics of my 'homemade' version some time ago but hinted that I might buy the real thing. I did get the 1080 last week and am I ever glad I did. While I could have fabricated many of the features Festool supplies, it just wasn't worth my time. The MFT makes a fabulous cutting station. In just a few days I found myself going to it before my TS, mainly because I could 'lock in' my cuts exactly; square, clean, and right where I wanted them. FWIW, I usually keep the fence slid back so that it does not extend under the guiderail since I have been cutting thin material like 1/4 and 3/8 ply and luan. It is pretty simple to loosen two bolts to slide it under the rail if you are working with relatively short cut-offs. I also bought a couple extra length stops to put on the fence so that I could flip down whatever one is appropriate to get the most out of my stock. Once you have a couple stops set, you can go back and forth between different lengths, for example rails and stiles.

I also found that I could 'joint' an edge on a warped board by placing it under the guiderail with just enough sticking out to straighten the edge. I would block under the left side with a same thickness board. I keep reasonable down pressure on the saw and the board does not move.

I think my original table will become my assembly station.

Greg

[Todd Burch]

The MFT is also strong enough to hold my fat hiney (220 lbs) while installing and finishing ceiling beams. I'm glad I have one too. Todd

[Dave Avery]

Hi Jim,

Nice set-up...... I'm considering the same purchase. Did you buy a Festool router too? A router seems to be required to get full benefit from the MFT. But with a hand-held router, a plunge kit (both Makita) and a PC 7518 at home already, it's a bit hard to justify. If I could use either the saw or the router and table to edge joint veneer, it would go a long way toward justifying the purchase. Any thoughts? Thanks. Dave.

[Jim Becker]

Dave, yes, I picked up the OF 1010 specifically to use with the MFT (and hopefully my Leigh dovetail jig) and will also be getting the OF 1400 EQ Plus once it's available in the US. Between the router and the plunge saw, the MFT will be a very useful (and I believe often used) resource both in the shop and out. It's important to me that I actually use the tools I invest in and the more versatility, the better.

[Greg Mann]

Hi Jim,

Nice set-up...... I'm considering the same purchase. Did you buy a Festool router too? A router seems to be required to get full benefit from the MFT. But with a hand-held router, a plunge kit (both Makita) and a PC 7518 at home already, it's a bit hard to justify. If I could use either the saw or the router and table to edge joint veneer, it would go a long way toward justifying the purchase. Any thoughts? Thanks. Dave.Dave,

While Festool has already done the design and build work to use their router to work elegantly with their system, I don't see any reason why you could not adapt another router to work with it. If you made a slotted block (hardwood or UHMW) that could ride on the guide rail with a couple holes in it to line up with the fence mounting holes in the base of your router you would be halfway there. If the rods are long enough you could mount some sort of outboard support on the overhanging side of the router as long as it did not interfere with any router functions. I did something like this with my Bosch to use with a guiderail and it wasn't too bad. In the end it made me appreciate all the more what a great job Festool has done in integrating these feature for us, so I bought the OF1010.

As a side note, and I hope Jim won't mind me saying this on his thread, I have been using the Festool router bits with replaceable blades. In our industry we call them inserts, and they are superb. I have been using primarily the 16mm plunge bit and it is very free cutting. The blades usually provide 2 or 4 renewable cutting edges and they are very sharp. DAMHIKT. I think something that might easily be overlooked is that changing the edges amounts to a regrind but you don't lose any size (or the inconvenience of sending it out). In fact, in some instances, if you were doing a lot of heavy cutting, you could use one set of edges for that rough work and keep the opposite side reserved for finish work. The cutter settings would be identical.

Greg

[Jim Becker]

Greg...thanks for mentioning the cutters. They are a great design and probably the best idea for this kind of work. When you are cutting dados in sheet goods and "man-made" stuff like MDF and particle board cores, bit edges wear very, very quickly. One of the quickest way to ruin a cut is with a dull bit. In the long term, replacable cutter type tooling is very cost effective for this purpose.

[Rich Konopka]

Jim:

The last picture shows the plunge saw in action and it looks as if you cutting into the table. Is the top a sacrificial top that is replaceable? I assume the holes are for dawgs?

Thanks again. I learn so much here at the creek and your contributions are very much appreciated. I hope that someday soon I can contribute back as much as you and the others.

Soaking it up for now !!

:)

[Jim Becker]

The last picture shows the plunge saw in action and it looks as if you cutting into the table. Is the top a sacrificial top that is replaceable? I assume the holes are for dawgs?
The top is replaceable/reversable and made of MDF. The dog holes are 20mm and are there for easy clamping of material for a variety of operations.

In the picture, I was scoring the table top with the blade set just a few mm below the surface to provide a reference line. I did this after I went through the initial setup and alignment checking in the, umm...instructions. (Which is a term I use lightly...like many tool companies, Festool's manuals are not all that great)

There are a few folks who post on the Festool forum at Yahoo who are making "really big" MFT setups for processing full sheets. Some are drilling a gazillion holes in a pattern, while others are just putting them where necessary and opting to just drill a new one where it is needed for a clamp or something.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Jim,

Is there a way to set the fence for accurate repeat cut like 8" shelves and sides for a book case? Or would you have to measure for each one.

Is this the big or the small table?

How easy would it be to do trim or should I plan on keeping the CMS?

Thanks,

Chuck

[Jerry Golick]

Is there a way to set the fence for accurate repeat cut like 8" shelves and sides for a book case? Or would you have to measure for each one.

Is this the big or the small table?

How easy would it be to do trim or should I plan on keeping the CMS?

Hi Chuck,

Let me kick in my own .02

There are numerous ways to get repeatable cuts using the MFT. I've attached a photo below with some of the various clamps and stops available. In the lower left hand corner are two stops that come with the table (though I've only ever used one at a time). They slide anywhere along the rail (which is about 48" if memory serves) and can be dogged down at any point. The metal bar swings over and acts as a stop for the work.

The guide rail limits the length of the crosscut to around 28", but with a longer rail it would be possible to get to 45" or so.

Where this system has some limitations, imo, is when trying to cut thin strips. The guide rail is about 6" wide and needs to be supported when in use. There are a number of ways to do this, but they require a bit more setup.

FWIW - I don't own a CMS and haven't missed it very much. But I'm still somewhat of a newbie as they say.

Hope this helps.

[Jim Becker]

Charles, I opted for the larger version. Jerry's comments are very good. Crown would be tricky, but most other type of "miter" work would be a snap. I use a sled on my table saw for "serious" miter work, such as framing and small crowns for the most part. My CMS only has been used for breaking down lumber, although I trust it more now that I have the ChopMaster on it. At any rate, the MFT could do a lot of things that a CMS is used for (as well as a RAS) and has capacity for much wider material. Is it a replacement? Not always. But that's fine with me.

Oh, as far as repeatability...stops of several kinds fill the bill.

[Jim Brigman]

Jim,

I have the Festool Plunge saw and think it is awesome, but the pics here seem to show MAJOR deflection in the guide rail during your cuts???

[Jim Becker]

I have the Festool Plunge saw and think it is awesome, but the pics here seem to show MAJOR deflection in the guide rail during your cuts???
You'll also notice that there is no material under the rail and it's up a little due to the fact that I (stupidly) didn't pull the fence back out from under it...that was one cut just to score the table. With material under the guide, there would be no deflection. The pic was taken during setup of the table...what can I say? :rolleyes:

[Frank Pellow]

Jim,

I have the Festool Plunge saw and think it is awesome, but the pics here seem to show MAJOR deflection in the guide rail during your cuts???

Jim (Brigman, obviously not Becker with his over 5000 posts), I see that this is your first posting to Saw Mill Creek. Let me be the first to welcome you. I have that saw too, and it has become indespensible to me.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Jim, that's a very nice setup! I need one of those (but my budget might not agree).

[Richard Link]

Jim,

I realize that this is a very old thread but I came accross it while researching a possible festool purchase. I was wondering if you could give us an update on how you are currently using your MFT now that several years have gone by since your original purchase. Still happy with it? Still using it a lot? i recently purchased the 1010EQ router for use with the standard 55 guiderail. I'm considering ponying up for the MFT at some point although space is a problem. Do you feel that the MFT really enhances your use of the festool saw and router for your work?

Rick

[Allen Grimes]

Wow, I thought Jim posted this thread today, I was wondering why it took so long for him to actually get the MFT.:rolleyes:

Still Jim, like Richard, I am interested in buying the MFT and would appreciate hearing an update of your opinions.

[Jim Becker]

It's an excellent tool. First, one small disclosure...since I installed the sliding table saw in my shop earlier this year, the MFT is less of a "regular use" tool than it was prior to the S315WS moving in. For space reasons, it's currently folded up and out of the way...but not forgotten in the least as I'll reference below.

That said, "in the shop", the utility of the MFT grew on me relatively quickly. Easy and safe crosscutting, especially of panels, was my primary use in a woodworking environment. I actually left the saw on it nearly full time as I was using it frequently. I also use it with the router a number of times for some very precise groove location, including with repetition of positioning using stops.

Going forward, my MFT gets two new assignments. Firstly, I'll be using it during some of the final installation work in our addition as my "job-site" workstation. (A good way to introduce Festool to some of the tradesman...LOL) And long term, it's going to live in the upstairs of my shop where my lumber racks are moving so I have the ability to use it up there when I need its capability. And since I can easily move it and set it up downstairs, it will be called upon when I want to use it for guided router operations in a "workstation" environment in the main shop.

The MFT isn't for everyone, but it has a huge amount of utility. And for folks who do job-site work, it's a no-brainer if you are using the Festool system. You literally have a high function woodshop with you when you combine the MFT with the rest of the guided tools.

[Richard Link]

Jim,

Thanks for the update. In my travels looking at the MFTs, I was impressed that there wasn't that much difference in size between the 800 and 1080. Both seemed awfully small for working as a horizontal panel saw for full sized plywood sheets. Have you found that the larger MFT was worth the extra expense and space consumption as compared to its smaller brother? If you had to go back in time, would you still get the larger table given all the moving you have planned for it?

Rick

[Jim Becker]

The MFT is not designed to work with full sheets of plywood or other goods, rather you break those down with the guide rail and saw independently of the MFT...and yes, I'm happy I chose the larger unit as it provides more support for longer stock.

[Greg Pavlov]

It's an excellent tool. First, one small disclosure...since I installed the sliding table saw in my shop earlier this year, the MFT is less of a "regular use" tool than it was prior to the S315WS moving in. For space reasons, it's currently folded up and out of the way...but not forgotten in the least as I'll reference below.
Is that a TecnoMax ? (makes the Festool prices look bargain-basement)

[Jim Becker]

Is that a TecnoMax ? (makes the Festool prices look bargain-basement)

Indeed...but it was on sale... :D

[Allen Grimes]

So Jim as someone who owns a table saw and plans on getting a slider in the somewhat distant future, would you say that the MFT + TS75 combo is a good way to tide me over until the slider is in my financial reach?

Also I have another question for you. Do you think it would be better to make an MFT extension for handling full sheets of ply or better to just make a knock down table that is independent of the MFT?

Thanks for the update btw Jim. I really appreciate it.

[Richard Link]

These are great questions. Hope you don't mind that I reanimated an old thread, Jim. I think the issue for many of us is that we have a hard time envisioning how the MFT really fits into a project workflow. On the surface it looks rather flimsy and limited but so many MFT users wax poetic about how "its changed their woodworking life." I have a few festool tools and would hate to miss out on the revolution of the MFT if it really is such a force multiplier for the already expensive festools I have. On the other hand, its an awfully expensive assembly table with guide rail.

It would be great if we could hear a real-world workflow for a standard piece of furniture (lets say a bookshelf) and how the MFT would fit into that. For purposes of discussion, perhaps we should assume the user doesn't have a high end slider...

My thinking is that the MFT would be tool of choice for crosscutting with the plunge saw, perhaps dadoing for the shelves with a guided router but that ripping stock to width would still be better done on the table saw. Anything else? Would you turn to the MFT for assembly if you had a standard assembly table? Sorry if I am being obtuse...

Rick

[Ed Falis]

If you go to the festoolusa web site, there should be a document or two by Jerry Work on using the MFT. He does go through a full piece of furniture as part of one of them. Interesting read all around.

[Jim Becker]

So Jim as someone who owns a table saw and plans on getting a slider in the somewhat distant future, would you say that the MFT + TS75 combo is a good way to tide me over until the slider is in my financial reach?

Yes, that would work and you'd have the portable utility going forward, too.

[/quote]Also I have another question for you. Do you think it would be better to make an MFT extension for handling full sheets of ply or better to just make a knock down table that is independent of the MFT? [/quote]

I would want to rip the sheet first at least...the MFT isn't wide enough nor is the standard guide long enough to cross cut a 48" wide piece of material. Just use a guide rail and the saw on a piece of foam board for the rip (or a table saw)


These are great questions. Hope you don't mind that I reanimated an old thread, Jim. I think the issue for many of us is that we have a hard time envisioning how the MFT really fits into a project workflow. On the surface it looks rather flimsy and limited but so many MFT users wax poetic about how "its changed their woodworking life." I have a few festool tools and would hate to miss out on the revolution of the MFT if it really is such a force multiplier for the already expensive festools I have. On the other hand, its an awfully expensive assembly table with guide rail.

It would be great if we could hear a real-world workflow for a standard piece of furniture (lets say a bookshelf) and how the MFT would fit into that. For purposes of discussion, perhaps we should assume the user doesn't have a high end slider...

My thinking is that the MFT would be tool of choice for crosscutting with the plunge saw, perhaps dadoing for the shelves with a guided router but that ripping stock to width would still be better done on the table saw. Anything else? Would you turn to the MFT for assembly if you had a standard assembly table? Sorry if I am being obtuse...

Rick

Workflow is basically as I indicated above...rip the sheet using a guided saw or table saw if you're comfortable with that and process all the crosscutting and any adjustments to final dimensions with the guided saw on the MFT. Dados and "cross-grain" rebates can also be done there with a guided router.

The MFT is not flimsy at all. To the contrary, it was designed to withstand portability and job-site use.

I've used mine for "small assembly" but I prefer to leave it set up as the MFT...assembly would require taking off the fence, etc., and subsequent realignment once you put it back on.

[Greg Pavlov]

Indeed...but it was on sale... :D

Welll, if you ever hear of a 70% off sale, let me know, I might be able to swing it ....:o

[Greg Pavlov]

......Also I have another question for you. Do you think it would be better to make an MFT extension for handling full sheets of ply or better to just make a knock down table that is independent of the MFT?....

You may want to go through the following thread: (Festool owners group thread topic 684 titled "Homemade MFT Worktop)

.. .and maybe the ultimate "MFT extension:"

http://www.briangray.net/projectdetail.cfm?ProjectID=32