Will a radial arm saw rip?

[mike holden]

I am in need of a new tablesaw. Watching Craigslist, I see that I can get a radial arm saw in good condition for a third of what a tablesaw runs.
I know the radial excels in crosscutting, but can it rip boards? If so, what is the limiting factor?
Seriously, I dont know these things and would like to be enlightened.
Thanks,
Mike

[jerry nazard]

Mike,

The answer is yes and no. The RAS will rip but it is awkward and does not rate very high on my "safe to do" list. I used to use a set-up with a 30' fence and RAS to straighten the convex edge of boards before taking them to the jointer. With a purpose built table-fence-holdown system the RAS can do stuff like that quite well. For anything else, I would use a tablesaw. So really, my answer is no.

Best to you!

-Jerry

[Rod Sheridan]

Yes they can rip, I've used one for that, however I don't recommend it due to the poor blade guarding and enhanced risk of a kick back compared to a table saw.

They can even be dangerous when cross cutting as they can self feed if a negative hook angle blade isn't used.

Many people own one, and are happy with it, just evaluate the safety aspects before making your decision.

Regards, Rod.

[jerry nazard]

Mike,

I'll add one more thing after reading Rod's post. The RAS will self-feed and the kick back can be DISASTROUS. I am at the moment nursing my left thumb which was broken, stripped of the nail, run through at the joint by a large splinter, and relived of a bit of flesh by a RAS kickback. This is my first power tool accident in over 45 years of woodworking. Talk about hurt....:eek:

-Jerry

[Joe Scharle]

My framers ripped miles of T1-11 and plywood on a RAS, back in the day. They also never used a miter gage, and a fence was a strip of ply clamped at the back of the jobsite tablesaw. They would also cut an arched doorway by standing on the cord of a circular saw and make a radiused cut.
I'd suggest that a good TS is a lot safer, though.

[Brian Smith3]

Yeah you can rip on a RAS. The limiting factor is the width of the cut is limited by the amount of travel on the arm.

I started woodworking on a RAS and used it for ripping from time to time. You have to make sure that the stock is held down to the table well and you need to use push sticks to get the stock past the motor. To me ripping on a RAS is dodgy but that may be a result of me not doing it much, so I'm interested to see what some of the more experienced guys say.

As far as the RAS as a replacement for a TS? Well personally I very much dislike the RAS so I would say no to that, but the real answer is that it depends on what you want to do, and how much you are willing to learn how to set the RAS up. Also remember that there are a lot of moving/sliding parts on a RAS and each of these is a potential for inaccuracy if you don't maintain them well. Hope that helped.

[Frank Drew]

They would also cut an arched doorway by standing on the cord of a circular saw and make a radiused cut.


I've never heard of that one!

[Scott Donley]

I did so for years on mine before I started reading how bad it was ;) I will say I have a TS nowdays and it is a whole lot faster. Never had a problem, but what did I know :)

[Paul Steiner]

The answer is you need both machines and you need to learn safety for both. Which one to get first, I dunno depends on what projects you want to build. I can't pick a favorite. If you need to rip cut I would say get a tablesaw first and keep surfing CL to get a good deal on a RAS.

[Austin Grote]

The answer is you need both machines and you need to learn safety for both. Which one to get first, I dunno depends on what projects you want to build. I can't pick a favorite. If you need to rip cut I would say get a tablesaw first and keep surfing CL to get a good deal on a RAS.

I disagree that you need a Radial Arm Saw...you can use a miter saw for crosscuts, or a crosscut sled on the table saw, or even a circular saw.

[Harlan Coverdale]

I disagree that you need a Radial Arm Saw...you can use a miter saw for crosscuts, or a crosscut sled on the table saw, or even a circular saw.

I agree with your disagreement. I used a RAS quite a bit in high school woodshop, but I've gotten along just fine without one for something like 35 years. I can't think of any RAS operations that can't be done more safely and easily with another tool.

[eugene thomas]

i use my ras just to rough cut boards. not worth dulling good blades on mitter saw for wrough cuts/

[Chip Lindley]

Back in the 60s and 70s, Sears touted the RAS as *the* jack of all trades! It was advertised as being able to do Everything! Many bought into this. But I could see a serious need for a TS also. Each machine performs best doing what it does best! Besides, most *hobby* RASs are only about 3/4 hp. Not nearly enough butt to rip much except 3/4" pine or ply.

Although rips can certainly be done on a RAS, they are messy and can be dangerous. Unlike crosscutting, where the blade either climbcuts or is pushed into the stock while held against the fence, ripping must be done with the blade rotating directly toward the user. The blade guard must be tilted so its rear just clears the stock being ripped, preventing stock being lifted off the table. While this adds safety, the front edge of the blade facing the operator is exposed, and LOTS of sawdust is thrown directly into his face! Ripping on a RAS is a nasty operation!

Ripping is what table saws were designed for. They do it best! Crosscutting long stock on a TS is as awkward as ripping is on a RAS. Many forego the RAS in favor of sliding miter saws, but those often lack rock-solid stability to deliver perfect crosscuts or miters. I Love My RAS's!

[Peter Quinn]

I agree with your disagreement. I used a RAS quite a bit in high school woodshop, but I've gotten along just fine without one for something like 35 years. I can't think of any RAS operations that can't be done more safely and easily with another tool.

I disagree with your agreement of his disagreement! I've been using a RAS for nearly thirty years. Started young. I sure would not rip with it. Almost anything else would be a better option in my mind. But for cross cutting rough stock? With a good RAS (not some cheap steel and aluminum POS side of the road junk) with the correct blade (strong negative hook, -10 to 15 degrees for instance) its safe and quick way to shorten boards, assuming the operator can remember not to place their hands in the blades path. What would be safer? Not a SCMS. They HATE rough lumber and kick like mules. Please don't tell me a skill saw. They don't like rough hardwood stock much more and are very prone to kick back. They like soft framing lumber maybe, but not so much 10/4 WO. Plus many a dufyss will forget that the blade sticks through the bottom of the board and reach under at some point to find pain waiting!

Honestly short of a good hand saw I can't think of a safer option? Problem is many bad RAS's have been made, and a good RAS may cost more than a TS by far. They sure do new. Price an Original saw or Delta, and price a Powermatic 5HP cabinet saw. Ouch.

[Jeff Miller]

I have done a lot of ripping on one and if you read the manual or a RAS book to show you how, it works quite nicely.


There are some on these forums that have never used one and will tell you it's not safe.


The worst that can happen is it will attack you while you are sleeping and cut your head off....................:eek::D





JEFF:)

[Van Huskey]

The RAS is about the most versatile machine in a shop except maybe the router but unlike the router it is quite misunderstood. Unless you want to spend the time to understand the RAS then it is best to stick wth a TS information is harder to find and assimilate about the RAS. I have ripped on a RAS but for most operations the TS is a better ripper.

[Steven Green]

I've been using an RAS since the late fifties. I wouldn't rip on one at all. I've done it and it's not a lot of fun, or safe. I own a tablesaw and an RAS and use each for it's qualities. My father, a contractor sold his tablesaw when I started fooling around in the shop. He said they were too dangerous. Not too many years after that he lost some fingers to his RAS. Near as I could tell it self fed and got him. I've never been hurt by either type but I've come closer to getting hurt with the 3 horse radial arm I currently own.

[Tom Veatch]

...I can't think of any RAS operations that can't be done more safely and easily with another tool.

Half lap joints in the body of long workpieces, e.g. several along the length of an 10' 2x4? No question it can be done with other tools, but the quickest, easiest, safest, and most accurate way I've found is with a RAS. Probably not worth buying one just for that, 'though.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I have my fathers 1956 Dewalt which he bought in 56. He ripped miles of stock with no problems. He taught me how to use this tool. I read the comments on self feeding during a rip cut. The only way I can think that will happen is if you feed the stock with the rotation of the blade ( climb cut). The RAS I have on the blade guard there is a label the says no ripping from this side. Also on the guard is a large blue metal spring. this spring rests on the stock to be ripped on the infeed side.. The other end of the guard has anti kickback fingers. I have ripped on this saw and don't find it difficult or scary.

However keeping the saw in alignment is a ROYAL PITA.

Greg

[Craig McCormick]

Most of the furniture in my house was built with a RAS including all the ripping. I do like ripping on a table saw much better though. I would love to have room for both a table saw and a RAS.

AZCRAIG

[mike holden]

Thank you all for your comments.
To summarize, The RAS *CAN* rip, but is not the safest way to do so.

I think I will limp along with my handsaws until I can replace my dead tablesaw with another tablesaw.

Thank you again,
Mike

[Craig McCormick]

If your RAS is self feeding you are doing something wrong.

AZCRAIG

[Bill White]

AHHEM!! Let me count the ways.....:rolleyes:
Bought my RAS in 1978 to build my first home. Didn'y buy a TS until 3 yrs. ago. I've ripped, mitered, routed, dadoed, blah blah with the RAS and still have all the digits. Granted, I've used hold downs, feather boards, Board Buddies, and all sorts of jigs. Just now getting over the abject terror I've faced in using the TS. I guess that, if'n ya stay scared of all of 'em, you'll diminish your chances of dismemberment. :eek:
Bill

[Keith Weber]

I know the radial excels in crosscutting, but can it rip boards? If so, what is the limiting factor?


Limiting factor = Bravery

I can't say that I've been a big fan of those things since I was attacked by one back in the 80's when I was 18. I was working in a lumber yard making 1000's of 2x2 joist braces out of 16-foot 2x2's. While I was using both hands to slide the stack of 2x2's into position for another repetitive cut, a little cutoff triangle sitting beside the blade got sucked into the blade. 99.9 times out of a 100, a little piece like that would get bounced off the back tin wall and just startle me with the noise. This time, the wooden triangle stood its ground and the whole blade/motor unit came rocketing forward faster than a nitro-dragster off the green drop. Before I even knew what hit me, I would only capable of counting to 8 before the plastic surgeons did their thing and gave me the gift of decimal counting once again.

I would not want to rip on one of those things, but that's just me!

[Lee Schierer]

Although rips can certainly be done on a RAS, they are messy and can be dangerous. Unlike crosscutting, where the blade either climbcuts or is pushed into the stock while held against the fence, ripping must be done with the blade rotating directly toward the user. The blade guard must be tilted so its rear just clears the stock being ripped, preventing stock being lifted off the table. While this adds safety, the front edge of the blade facing the operator is exposed, and LOTS of sawdust is thrown directly into his face! Ripping on a RAS is a nasty operation!


This is not true on my Craftsman saw. I always lower the guard in the front where I fed in the boards when ripping so it just clears the piece. This prevents the part from rising up. Then I lower the splitter/kick back pawls so they just clear the board in the back. With this set up there is no way for a board to rise up during the cut. There is blade exposed at the back of the guard away from me until I go to pull the boards out, which is normally done with the saw off. I have full plastic guards on each side of the blade as well. This was a stock guard on my saw.

If you bury the tips of the blade about 1/8-1/4" into the table surface when ripping like the instructions say to do, kick back is no more likely than on a table saw.

I still have my RAS and it gets used occasionally. If I had purchased my TS first, it is likely I wouldn't own a RAS as the accuracy just isn't there with a RAS like it is on a TS.

[Jason White]

Yes, you can rip on them. Go to your local library and check out a book or two on radial arm saws. I've seen several there at one time or another.
Jason


I am in need of a new tablesaw. Watching Craigslist, I see that I can get a radial arm saw in good condition for a third of what a tablesaw runs.
I know the radial excels in crosscutting, but can it rip boards? If so, what is the limiting factor?
Seriously, I dont know these things and would like to be enlightened.
Thanks,
Mike

[Chip Lindley]

Lee, mine was a 1977 Crapsman, underpowered with iffy settings when moved from 90 degrees. Perhaps I got the blade guard position reversed. Senior Moments are now allowed to all Baby Boomers!

The times I've ripped on any RAS can be counted on one hand. This says, "I'd rather NOT, if at all Possible!" I reserve the gynormous Rockwell 18" and smaller, but solid 12" RAS's for crosscutting and miters.

[Tim Sgrazzutti]

Hi Mike,

My answer is that a well built RAS, that's capable of being properly adjusted, and will hold its adjustments, is as safe to rip on as any circular bladed machine is. You also need an appropriate blade, stock that is safe to rip (a jointed face and edge), and above all, knowledge of how to do it safely.

Ripping on any circular bladed machine can be a dangerous operation. Stock that isn't flat, doesn't have a jointed edge to run against the fence, or has internal stresses that cause it to distort when cut is bad to cut on either an RAS or a TS. I generally rip only sheet stock and 3/4" or thinner solid wood on the RAS. For thicker wood, a bandsaw works better than any machine with a circular blade, and is a safer bet. Since I suspect you don't use many sheet goods, being a hand tool guy, I'd say to get a bandsaw instead.

At any rate, I see we're practically neighbors, so if you're interested in checking out how to safely rip on a good old 50's cast iron DeWalt, let me know. I also have a few books on the subject you're welcome to borrow.

[Curt Harms]

Half lap joints in the body of long workpieces, e.g. several along the length of an 10' 2x4? No question it can be done with other tools, but the quickest, easiest, safest, and most accurate way I've found is with a RAS. Probably not worth buying one just for that, 'though.

Well, that and providing another flat surface to clutter up and have to pick up and put away before you can use the machine :o. I used mine to make a semi torsion box assembly table. Cut notches half way through 1/2" X 3" pieces to form the "egg crate" base. It worked well for that. A router or table saw would not have worked as well IMO.

[David Winer]

I’m with Lee Shierer on the radial arm saw ripping issue. His description of the safe procedure is what I have followed since acquiring my Craftsman 12 inch RAS in the early 70s. The setup for ripping leaves little opportunity for kickback. In front of the cut the blade guard almost touches the board, and at the rear of the cut there are anti-kickback pawls and a splitter. These pawls work well--they dig in at the slightest movement toward the front. The correct rip settings for adjusting the guard, pawls, and splitter are fast and easy once you get the hang of it.
Chip Lindley remarks: “Back in the 60s and 70s, Sears touted the RAS as *the* jack of all trades! It was advertised as being able to do Everything! Many bought into this.” Yea, verily. I was one of those who accepted the concept and as a result used the machine for all sorts of woodworking operations. Now I have special purpose tools, but then the RAS was all I had. I learned to use it and its accessories and they worked. It never occurred to me to question its ripping safety as especially dangerous, so I happily ripped away on countless projects.