Vertical Raised Panel Bit

[Teresa Jones]

Good Monday Afternoon All,

I am following a plan that calls for using a Vertical Straight Raised Panel bit to finish the drawer fronts on two nightstands.

I bought the bit and began practicing the cuts on some scrap pieces. I quickly learned you cannot make the raised panel in one cut. This router business is a little bit intimidating.

The drawer fronts are 3/4 thick. The raised panel is 3/4 thick at the middle and 1/4 thick at the edges. The bit is set at 1 inch in height. I have the fence enclosing the bit as close as I can get it.

How much should I take off at a time?

How do I keep the piece tight against the fence when milling the ends?
Can I safely use a feather board with direct pressure on the bit? The drawer fronts are less than 5 inches wide.

Do I set the bit and mill all four sides (ends first) and then move the fence and cut all four sides again or do I mill all the end work first and then start anew with the long sides?

I used a backer board but still got some serious tearout that I am hoping you tell me is because I took too big a bite!

Thanks for all your help!!

[James Carmichael]

Theresa,

There's a great article in the latest Fine Woodworking on raised panels that covers vertical and horizontal routing.

[Teresa Jones]

I get Fine Woodworking but don't remember the article and I usually read them all!!

Is it a new one you just received recently?

TJ

[Steve Jenkins]

Hi TJ
yes you can and should use a feather board. place it so it is just above the router bit. That is about even with the bearing .

Do all four sides of all pieces before moving the fence. Start with the end grain and work your way around the board by rotating the board clockwise. This will clean up each end grain cut with a long grain cut.

How big a cut you can make will depend on the wood. Not just the specie but the figure. More cuts is better than fewer as you already found out. :o

If you are having trouble keeping the piece verticle while cutting it you might want to use a follower that is 4-5" wide. Try different sizes and you will find something that works well for you.

This may seem like a lot of "stuff" to go through but you only have to do it once. Next timeyou will have the feather boards and know what you need for a follower etc.

[Greg Mann]

Take heart Teresa. Once you master this bit all the others will seem tame. James' reference to FineWoodworking is good to start because you will be able to SEE what they are talking about. Be careful and stay alert.

Greg

[John R Lucas]

Hi Teresa,
It it s great bit and really is easy to use once you have a few things set up. I recently did a few pages on my site to give a "step-by-step SOP" so to speak.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-ve18.jpg

Here is the URL for the SOP: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-vert1.htm

John Lucas

[Kent Cori]

Great demo John, many thanks. I had visited you site before but had not viewed this demo. Clearly I need to spend more time there. Now if I could only find an assistant as lovely as yours. :)

[Teresa Jones]

WOW!!!

James - thank you for the reference to Fine Woodworking. I found the article and it will come in handy as a reference when I make my cuts.

Steve - you could have written the article in Fine Woodworking!

John - thank you for the link to your website. It clarified a lot of things for me. One issue I was particularly concerned about was safely holding the piece while feeding it past the router bit. I never even thought about my trusty Gripper!!

Many thanks everyone. I'll try and post some pictures when I get those drawer fronts completed.

TJ