Steven DeMars
03-23-2010, 3:39 PM
Looking for advice on how to install a removable white plastic cutting board. We have 2' X 3' butcher block center island/table that was purchased from an unfinished furniture store.
I want to cut out a section out of the top about 10"X 7.5" X 3/8" deep. I want to then cut a piece of cutting board material to drop in to the opening. I would put a hole in the top to be able to push the cutting board out for cleaning from beneath.
Can I use an ROUTER INLAY KIT to accomplish this?
Any suggestions would be appreciated . . .
Below is how I got into this mess . . .
I really didn't want to build one from scratch, so it appeared to be the best solution. We stained the lower part applied a satin polyurethane. That came out really well. The butcher block top (not end grain) was sanded and stained also. For a finish we chose to go with System 3 Mirror Coat. We prepped, we leveled, we did everything right. End result, 90% of the top is absolutely beautiful. The Mirror Coat performed just as it should. As for the other 10% of the table located near a corner, it did not level correctly, lots of bubbles and dips. This is only present over this one section, which also appears to be just this one segment of the top. The same piece of wood. Called the factory, they tried to be helpful, but you guys all know that fixing a finish is just about impossible. They suggested a heat gun to melt the plastic. That helped a little, but there is a side effect. The melting point of the plastic appears to be higher that the "scorching/burning" point of wood.So now we have a small area with some bumps, bubbles and now the wood beneath the Mirror Coat is scorched black.
This is by no way a complaint about Mirror Coat. I am pretty sure now that that piece of wood that helped make up the top was either moist or oily. The imperfections only appear over "that" piece of wood.
Thanks in advance,:)
Steve
I want to cut out a section out of the top about 10"X 7.5" X 3/8" deep. I want to then cut a piece of cutting board material to drop in to the opening. I would put a hole in the top to be able to push the cutting board out for cleaning from beneath.
Can I use an ROUTER INLAY KIT to accomplish this?
Any suggestions would be appreciated . . .
Below is how I got into this mess . . .
I really didn't want to build one from scratch, so it appeared to be the best solution. We stained the lower part applied a satin polyurethane. That came out really well. The butcher block top (not end grain) was sanded and stained also. For a finish we chose to go with System 3 Mirror Coat. We prepped, we leveled, we did everything right. End result, 90% of the top is absolutely beautiful. The Mirror Coat performed just as it should. As for the other 10% of the table located near a corner, it did not level correctly, lots of bubbles and dips. This is only present over this one section, which also appears to be just this one segment of the top. The same piece of wood. Called the factory, they tried to be helpful, but you guys all know that fixing a finish is just about impossible. They suggested a heat gun to melt the plastic. That helped a little, but there is a side effect. The melting point of the plastic appears to be higher that the "scorching/burning" point of wood.So now we have a small area with some bumps, bubbles and now the wood beneath the Mirror Coat is scorched black.
This is by no way a complaint about Mirror Coat. I am pretty sure now that that piece of wood that helped make up the top was either moist or oily. The imperfections only appear over "that" piece of wood.
Thanks in advance,:)
Steve