Cabinet Saw Blade Choice

[Jim VanBramer]

Just a quick question for you ... I'm looking at getting a Woodworker II for my cabinet saw, and I just need some recommendations on whether to buy the 1/8" or the thin kerf. Thanks.

Jim

[Larry Crim]

Jim I have 3 WWII 1/8 blades and have been totally satisfied with them, Also the customer service at forest is great.

Larry

[Jamie Buxton]

If you want nice clean cuts, get the standard kerf. You can get a glue-quality rip with a good standard kerf blade. In my experience, thin-kerf blades don't leave as clean a cut. I think they're flexible enough that they flop from side to side as they're cutting.

[Jim Becker]

There is no real reason to use a thin kerf blade on most saws...even a contractors' style saw will cut just fine with a regular kerf blade. Go with the standard, 1/8" kerf blades for your cabinet saw...and no stablizer is necessary, either.

[Maurice Ungaro]

I have two WWII blades, 1/8th and 3/32nd inch. (regular & thin kerf). The reason I got the thin kerf blade is that my 1.5 hp contractor saw was bogging down in 8/4 QS white oak. The WWII thin kerf blade sliced right through, with no flopping, fluttering, drift, deviation, etc.

You, on the other hand, have a cabinet saw - which most likely is at LEAST 3 hp. Go with the regular kerf, and see if that slices through most anything you need to cut.

Maurice

[John Weber]

Full 1/8" kerf!

John

[Kent Cori]

Another enthusiastic vote for the regular kerf WWII. I have one on my Griz 1023SL and use it for almost everything. It cuts like a dream.

BTW, the saw has never boggoed down even with the blade fully extended and buried in an Oak slab.

[Brian Hale]

I vote for 1/8"

[Charlie Plesums]

I vote for 1/8 inch, but also consider the "Woodworker II special Number 6 grind." ATB like the regular Woodworker II, but every 5th tooth is a raker, for a flatter bottom in the kerf and better rip performance. I have both, but the regular WW II became the backup blade when I got the Number 6

[John Miliunas]

Regular kerf over here, as well. Logic would also tell me that the carbide would last longer, over numerous sharpenings. :cool:

[Mark Stutz]

Most splitters won't work with a thin kerf blade, unless you make one yourself.

[Ken Salisbury]

There is no real reason to use a thin kerf blade on most saws...even a contractors' style saw will cut just fine with a regular kerf blade. Go with the standard, 1/8" kerf blades for your cabinet saw...and no stablizer is necessary, either.



Like Jim said

[Ted Shrader]

Like Jim saidDitto!!

You paid for the capability and power on your saw, now you get to use it.

Ted

[Ed Falis]

Most splitters won't work with a thin kerf blade, unless you make one yourself.

MicroJig, the folks who make the GRR-Ripper, recently came out with a thin-kerf version of the MJ Splitter. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet because of a lot of home improvement stuff, but it looks good.

- Ed