help me cut perfect miters please.

[David Schmaus]

I need to make a frame that is using 2x2 stock. I need the interior dimensions to be 18.25" square.

I only need to make one of these. What is the best way to make it perfect. I have a sled for my table saw that is setup perfect.

Thank you

[glenn bradley]

This worked well for me. I have since made a better one with higher faces but this one (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=120289) got me through a couple of picture frames.

[David Schmaus]

This worked well for me. I have since made a better one with higher faces but this one (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=120289) got me through a couple of picture frames.

Thank you. I guess if I have a sled that is setup I can go ahead a cut a perfect square say 10" square then attach it to my sled like a diamond. Even if its off a hair as long as I cut each piece from each side of the diamond it will = 90.

[Bill Huber]

I just finished a small miter sled last night, noting really fancy just some 1/2" mdf, some 3/4" mdf and some scrap red oak.
It really did not take long but it is sure nice to have. My sled is 90 degrees and when I cut miters they fit together spot on.

The main thing is to get the triangle at 90 degrees and then mount it to the base so that one side is 135 degrees to the blade.

Now when you make your cuts, cut one end on the left side and the other end on the right side, they will fit together like a glove.

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[Lee Schierer]

I use a similar jig to the one Bill describes. I set the first angle at 45 using a large plastic drafting triangle, they are cheap and highly accurate. Then I set the second side in place with my carpenter square. (Note: Check your square to insure it is in fact 90 degrees as many of the stamped metal ones are not perfect) It has worked well for many years. One other thing to consider is that the opposite sides of your frame have to be absolutely identical in length. I usually check my pieces by standing them on their tips long side to long side and seeing if the tips are exactly even. One caution. When you make the cuts the blade will becoming through the corner toward where your hands will be. Make sure your hands are out of the way or build in a guard.

When you glue your joints, you'll get a stronger bod if you apply a diluted coat of glue to each mating side just before you apply the final glue for the joint. You are essentially gluing an end grain joint so it will pull glue away from the joint area into the grain.

[John Thompson]

As Lee stated... you have to ensure both sides are of equal lenght or there is no way to mate the 45*'s and not leave a gap regardless if using a sled or standard miter with a sacrificial fence as I do. Once the 45* is assured on one end.. I use a cut-off scrap from the first end cut to make a stop block which you clamp to the fence so the forward angled point on the cut-off meeting the fence is exactly the distance you intend for a side to the outside tip of the blade where the second 45* is severed.