Sharpening angle for Stanley #7

[Scott Cardais]

I just bought a used Stanley / Bailey 7C jointer plane.

I'd like to sharpen the iron but I'm not sure about the proper sharpening angle.

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Scott C.

[Joel Goodman]

Usually I grind at 25 degrees and add a microbevel of 2 degrees -- but I believe that anywhere from 25 -30 degrees would be OK.

[Scott Cardais]

Just a quick note to say thank you for the fast reply.

What a great resource this is for woodworkers.

Scott C.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

The 25* primary bevel is correct. However, a microbevel on a bevel down plane will not help since the microbevel would be facing away from the direction you are planing (it is on the backside). Yet a 5*-10*-15* back bevel will increase the attack angle of a bevel down plane from its 45* angle of attack to 50*-55*-60*.

Microbevels are effective in increasing the angle of attack on bevel up planes such as block planes, LV/LN LA Smoother, LA Jack, LA Jointer.

[Don Dorn]

I increase the sharpening bevel 5 degrees more than the grind bevel which is 25 degrees. The only reason I use them is so that I can freshen a blade quickly when they start to dull.

On a bevel up plane, an increased sharpening angle increases the angle of attack, but makes no difference on a standard bench plane. I guess that if you used a back bevel, it would slightly, but I don't use the ruler trick at all.

[Jim Koepke]

The Stanley factory grind was 25°. I often sharpen mine at 30°.

I do not usually use a micro bevel nor a hollow grind.

jim

[James Taglienti]

Sharpening a microbevel on a bevel down plane actually DOES do something. It strengthens the cutting edge and makes it less likely to chip on knots or end grain. It is also a good way to touch up an edge if you are in a hurry. However I find that microbevels greatly impede freehand sharpening and I rarely use them.

[Bob Easton]

... However, a microbevel on a bevel down plane will not help since the microbevel would be facing away from the direction you are planing (it is on the backside). ...


Maybe you're thinking of "the ruler trick" which places a bevel on the back?

I don't use that. I grind to 25 degrees and then put a microbevel of 5 degrees on that ground edge, making an effective edge of 30 degrees.

As James Taglienti says, this gives a stronger edge, while also reducing the surface size for really quick honing and touch up.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

Bob, James

Thanks for that piece of information. From what I had read I was under the impression that a microbevel on a BD plane was not necessary. Always good to learn something new.:)

[Michael Peet]

Maybe you're thinking of "the ruler trick" which places a bevel on the back?

I don't use that. I grind to 25 degrees and then put a microbevel of 5 degrees on that ground edge, making an effective edge of 30 degrees.

As James Taglienti says, this gives a stronger edge, while also reducing the surface size for really quick honing and touch up.

I think his point is that changing the bevel angle (micro or main) on a bevel-down plane (like the #7) does not change the angle of the blade presented to the wood as you push it forward; that is dictated by the frog.

As mentioned, the micro bevel has other advantages. I've only recently started using them because it is much faster for me to refresh an edge that way.

Mike

[Joel Goodman]

If you're sharpening with a honing guide then the microbevel let's you skip a lot of intermediate grits. If the primary bevel is polished with 1000 grit then a little polishing with an 8000 grit stone at a few degrees higher will create a mirror bright microbevel of 1/16th to 1/8th inch, which is also easy to refresh.