Table saw guard with dust collection

[Frank Martin]

I have a Uniguard on my Unisaw, but the lack of dust collection keeps me looking for alternatives. I am specifically interested in overarm guards. Which guard has the best dust collection?

Also, I will likely be upgrading to a Sawstop, I am assuming I can use the same guard on that saw as well.

Thanks in advance.

[Robert Chapman]

Check the Sharkguard.

[Rod Sheridan]

I had an Excalibur on my saw, it's a good guard because it can be used for non through cuts, and has good dust collection.

The Shark Guard isn't capable of being used on non through cuts.

Regards, Rod.

[Philip Rodriquez]

I'm with Rod, I have an Excalibur and it has great DC and it easily swings out of the way when you need the air-space.

[Robert Reece]

I have a sharkguard and I am quite impressed. I can also vouch for the customer service you get from Lee (who makes the sharkguard). I had a problem with mine that was largely due to operator error and Lee really stepped up and made me happy.

It is true that the sharkguard doesn't work for non-through cuts. However, you pay a lot less for the sharkguard then the overarm types and I have not had a problem with dust collection on a non-through cut. When you are doing a dado cut, all the chips fly into the cabinet anyway so collecting from underneath is reasonable. If you are doing tenon cuts where the end of the workpiece is exposed, you do get some chips flying here. I am not sure if the overarm guard catches these or not.

Another option is if your ceiling is reasonably low and your tablesaw stays put, you can attach an overarm guard from above. And probably for a lot cheaper.

[John Thompson]

I have a sharkguard and I am quite impressed. I can also vouch for the customer service you get from Lee (who makes the sharkguard). I had a problem with mine that was largely due to operator error and Lee really stepped up and made me happy.

It is true that the sharkguard doesn't work for non-through cuts. However, you pay a lot less for the sharkguard then the overarm types and I have not had a problem with dust collection on a non-through cut. When you are doing a dado cut, all the chips fly into the cabinet anyway so collecting from underneath is reasonable. If you are doing tenon cuts where the end of the workpiece is exposed, you do get some chips flying here. I am not sure if the overarm guard catches these or not.

Another option is if your ceiling is reasonably low and your tablesaw stays put, you can attach an overarm guard from above. And probably for a lot cheaper.

An over-head gaurd is not effective on either dadoes which you mentioned as the entire blade and slot is covered by the stock and it is not effective using a tenoning jig as the gaurd has to be raised to far above the cut even on a short strecher being tenoned.

So.. both the Shark Gaurd and over-head get dust to about the same degree IMO having used both. I prefer the Shark Gaurd as I build my own but both have pro's and con's. Nothing is perfect I would think when working in an enviroment where there are multi-function task being performed.

[Rod Sheridan]

An over-head gaurd is not effective on either dadoes which you mentioned as the entire blade and slot is covered by the stock and it is not effective using a tenoning jig as the gaurd has to be raised to far above the cut even on a short strecher being tenoned.

So.. both the Shark Gaurd and over-head get dust to about the same degree IMO having used both. I prefer the Shark Gaurd as I build my own but both have pro's and con's. Nothing is perfect I would think when working in an enviroment where there are multi-function task being performed.

Hi John, your comments on the dust collection when using a dado blade are accurate, however it wasn't my concern with the overarm guard versus the Shark guard.

My concern with the Shark guard was that it couldn't be used, so you had an un-guarded dado blade on the saw.

That was my concern, not the dust collection.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. I stopped using a tenon jig on the table saw for the same reason, I couldn't come up with an effective guard. I now make them on the shaper.

[glenn bradley]

John pretty much nails it. Non-through cuts get no benefit from an overarm and mine is swung out of the way more often than not as I generally am doing narrow rips, cross cuts, miter work or sled cuts. The overarm isn't suitable for any of this type of work IMHO. For panel cuts I use a PSI overarm which does a great job connected to a 2HP cyclone. The Excalibur offers a larger air path and is bigger. If I did a lot of sheet goods work and used the overarm most of the time I would seriously look at the Excalibur. For the 10% of the time I use it, the PSI is a solid performer. Any overarm will require adequate "suck" to do a good job.

[Rod Sheridan]

John pretty much nails it. Non-through cuts get no benefit from an overarm and mine is swung out of the way more often than not as I generally am doing narrow rips, cross cuts, miter work or sled cuts. The overarm isn't suitable for any of this type of work IMHO. For panel cuts I use a PSI overarm which does a great job connected to a 2HP cyclone. The Excalibur offers a larger air path and is bigger. If I did a lot of sheet goods work and used the overarm most of the time I would seriously look at the Excalibur. For the 10% of the time I use it, the PSI is a solid performer. Any overarm will require adequate "suck" to do a good job.

Glenn, isn't having the blade guarded a benefit when performing non through cuts?

Regards, Rod.

[Frank Warta]

Glenn, isn't having the blade guarded a benefit when performing non through cuts?

Regards, Rod.

I second this, with the references lately to people getting bumped into running saws and the ever present danger of inattention doesn't it make the most sense to have the blade covered whenever feasible. So before the piece hits the blade and after, even if it's a non-through cut it seems to me it would be useful to not have spinning sharp things uncovered when it's reasonable to avoid it.

FWIW I don't have a decent guard at all so take this with a grain of salt of course, but it is on my list of "to gets". And I use the one I have when I can. I just know I'd feel better if that was more often.

[Matt Meiser]

I've got an overarm guard now--Biesemeyer myself. Its generally good, has great DC when used with a vac (not so great with a DC since the hose is small) and works for most cuts. But the overarm gets in the way when using my extenion table mounted router for tall items (for example when trimming edging with a flush trim bit on a shelf) and precludes me from easily upgrading to a larger fence because Biese guards are sized to the fence. After trying out a friend's Shark guard, I'll probably someday upgrade to that. You still need to run the hose overhead, but it can be flexible and easily pushed out of the way.

[Bill Arnold]

I installed the PSI overhead guard and dust collection system several months ago. You can see it here (http://bbarnold.com/shop_tsguard.html) in my shop tour on my non-commercial website.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Hi Frank,

If you're planning to get a sawstop soon, don't waste your money on a blade guard now. The PCS has incredible dust collection. I just set mine up yesterday... I cut a bunch of MDF and couldn't smell or see any sawdust. It's really amazing. If you're getting the ICS or the CNS, sawstop is planning to sell the dust collecting blade guard as an accessory for those saws in the near future (per their customer service department).

It's true that you can't use the PCS blade guard while making non through cuts. But as discussed, the dust collection on an overarm guard is useless for non through cuts, so the only benefit is the fact that you get protection from the blade. Since your new saw will be a sawstop, the safety issue is much less of a concern.

So don't waste your money on an overarm guard!

[Philip Rodriquez]

The Excalibur design lifts off the table, when needed.:D

[Jason White]

How do you like it. Is it effective?

Jason



I installed the PSI overhead guard and dust collection system several months ago. You can see it here (http://bbarnold.com/shop_tsguard.html) in my shop tour on my non-commercial website.

[glenn bradley]

I second this, with the references lately to people getting bumped into running saws and the ever present danger of inattention doesn't it make the most sense to have the blade covered whenever feasible.

The blade is already covered by your material.

[glenn bradley]

How do you like it. Is it effective?

Jason

Re the PSI guard; I have been running it for about 5 years. It was poor with the upper and lower split with a wye and attached to a 1HP bagger. It is very good running the same way with a 2HP cyclone. Swings easily out of the way and swings back into position just as quickly. The hood hose swings over to do duty at my router table fence as well. Can also be hung from the ceiling with the included hardware. All in all, I would buy it again.

[Rod Sheridan]

Glenn, that's only true when there's material on the table.

It's not true as you're removing material or placing new material on the table.

That's when you're paying the least attention to the blade.

Regards. Rod.

[Scott Rollins]

I use a felder saw guard on my Sawstop. It has great dust collection. It is P/n 420-708
https://shop.felder-gruppe.at/felder/shop_category.php?region=us-us&real_shop_cuid=237&shop_site=shop_node116

$49.84

No affiliation. Another creeker put me onto it a year or so ago.

[John Thompson]

Glenn, that's only true when there's material on the table.

It's not true as you're removing material or placing new material on the table.

That's when you're paying the least attention to the blade.

Regards. Rod.

Here's how I remedy un-covered one the stock crosses the blade on a trench (dado) long grain Rod. And the second picture is a dado cross-grain. Even with a gaurd I never allow my hands closer than 6" to the blade and certainly so with no shield.

On the cross-cut clamps do the holding and my right hand in on the knob behind the miter fence. 6" rule enforced. I simply bump the kill switch on my saw with my knee to as soon as the stock clears the blade. Hard to mis the kill swithch with my knee on my saw as I fixed that issue. I allow the blade to quit spinning before I remove clamps and set up the next piece if there is a next piece. You never reach across or lean forward as there is no reason to do so... ;)

[Rod Sheridan]

Here's how I remedy un-covered one the stock crosses the blade on a trench (dado) long grain Rod. And the second picture is a dado cross-grain. Even with a gaurd I never allow my hands closer than 6" to the blade and certainly so with no shield.

On the cross-cut clamps do the holding and my right hand in on the knob behind the miter fence. 6" rule enforced. I simply bump the kill switch on my saw with my knee to as soon as the stock clears the blade. Hard to mis the kill swithch with my knee on my saw as I fixed that issue. I allow the blade to quit spinning before I remove clamps and set up the next piece if there is a next piece. You never reach across or lean forward as there is no reason to do so... ;)

John, making an additional guard as you did is a great idea, one that I struggled with for tennons and never solved.

The overarm guard does however work for the two operations you illustrated with the dado setup, something the Shark guard doesn't do.

Regards, Rod.

[glenn bradley]

John and I are like thinkers. I don't do anything with the saw running other than make a cut. I position my material, start the saw, make the cut and stop the saw.

[Bill Arnold]

How do you like it. Is it effective?

Jason
It adds to the overall effectiveness of dust collection when making through cuts, especially when cutting material that produces fine dust. Chips can get thrown to the sides of the hood but I plan to add a ring of brushes as others have done to contain them.

[John Thompson]

John and I are like thinkers. I don't do anything with the saw running other than make a cut. I position my material, start the saw, make the cut and stop the saw.

Yep.... ;)

[John Thompson]

John, making an additional guard as you did is a great idea, one that I struggled with for tennons and never solved.

The overarm guard does however work for the two operations you illustrated with the dado setup, something the Shark guard doesn't do.

Regards, Rod.

Okey-dokey! .... :)

BTW.. if you use a tenon jig on the TS there is no way to collect dust and I seriously doubt anyone is going to solve that Rod. I just don a dust mask and vacuum when I am done which is accepting the reality that "roses have thorns and silver fountains mud"... Shakespeare ;)

Regards...

[Rod Sheridan]

Okey-dokey! .... :)

BTW.. if you use a tenon jig on the TS there is no way to collect dust and I seriously doubt anyone is going to solve that Rod. I just don a dust mask and vacuum when I am done which is accepting the reality that "roses have thorns and silver fountains mud"... Shakespeare ;)

Regards...

Very good John, I especially appreciated the prose.

My main concern with the tenon cutting on the TS was that I was using a tenon jig, which results in a lot of exposed blade. That's what I couldn't solve, a good guard that wasn't more trouble than it was worth.

I finally gave up and started making tenons on the shaper, which does have a guard.

Regards, Rod.

[John Thompson]

Very good John, I especially appreciated the prose.

My main concern with the tenon cutting on the TS was that I was using a tenon jig, which results in a lot of exposed blade. That's what I couldn't solve, a good guard that wasn't more trouble than it was worth.

I finally gave up and started making tenons on the shaper, which does have a guard.

Regards, Rod.

What I find with using my tenon jig which is very accurate.. if my hands are in the correct place on the jig after I have the stock clamped to the fence face and back face with the saw stopped... the chances are slim to none of my hand getting into the blade. I would have to be creatively stupid for that to happen. As Mr. Gump says.... "stupid is what stupid does" I suppose and I value limbs enough to not fall into the "does" category!. ;)

Regards and too the shop.. ten minutes late now, I hope they don't dock my pay or fire me! No respect for us retiree's I tell ya! ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

Regards..

[Frank Martin]

Thanks everyone for all the great discussion. I was almost decided on getiing an Exactor overarm guide until I saw Peter's post about Sawstop's built in dust collection. I will live with what I have now rather than spending $400 on a guard now that will not really be needed with a Sawstop.



Hi Frank,

If you're planning to get a sawstop soon, don't waste your money on a blade guard now. The PCS has incredible dust collection. I just set mine up yesterday... I cut a bunch of MDF and couldn't smell or see any sawdust. It's really amazing. If you're getting the ICS or the CNS, sawstop is planning to sell the dust collecting blade guard as an accessory for those saws in the near future (per their customer service department).

It's true that you can't use the PCS blade guard while making non through cuts. But as discussed, the dust collection on an overarm guard is useless for non through cuts, so the only benefit is the fact that you get protection from the blade. Since your new saw will be a sawstop, the safety issue is much less of a concern.

So don't waste your money on an overarm guard!

[Mike Bielby]

I went with the Shark Guard and couldn't be happier. The customer service Lee has provided has been exceptional. True, it can't be used when making non-through cuts, but I don't feel like I need it at that time. The boom arm on the excalibur also interferes with the router leaf and my Incra TS fence. Sharkguard, at half the price, does not.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Thanks everyone for all the great discussion. I was almost decided on getiing an Exactor overarm guide until I saw Peter's post about Sawstop's built in dust collection. I will live with what I have now rather than spending $400 on a guard now that will not really be needed with a Sawstop.

Glad to be of service. Which saw do you plan to buy?

[Dave Lewis]

I have the Sharkguard - works well w/ 4" hose and 3hp cyclone.

[Ben Rivenbark]

Someone on a local woodworking site of which I am a member is currently nursing a hand wound due to a non-through cut. He was pushing the wood through a dado cut when the blade grabbed the wood and moved it out of the way much faster than his hand moved.

I think he would say that an overarm guard would be a safety feature for non-through cuts.

[Van Huskey]

Glenn, that's only true when there's material on the table.

It's not true as you're removing material or placing new material on the table.

That's when you're paying the least attention to the blade.

Regards. Rod.

I am with you 100% on this one (as I usually am, except for the whole no router thing). Not a day goes buy reading the forum that I don't see another reason why Sawstop does and should sell a LOT of saws. Even if one never has the saw running except with stock on the table the blade DOES present itself at the end of most non-through cuts. The OAG helps prevent injuries in these situations and if nothing else for me it gives a visual reference of exactly where the blade is even when I can't see it. The idea that OAGs are there more for DC than protection on a SS gives credence to the argument that SS owners become less safety conscience (in the traditional sence), an argument that I long thought was bunk. The "American (or should I say North American) cabinet saw is flawed from a safety perspective but the OAG is one significant way to address at least some of those issues, a brake is indeed a better mousetrap but why not use two mousetraps when one has a whole shop full of mice.

[Paul Ryan]

Thanks everyone for all the great discussion. I was almost decided on getiing an Exactor overarm guide until I saw Peter's post about Sawstop's built in dust collection. I will live with what I have now rather than spending $400 on a guard now that will not really be needed with a Sawstop.

Frank,

Sawstops guard does an excellent job at just collection. I have tested it compared to a shark. Considering the sawstop has such a small port for the dust collection it does an amazing job. I cannot suggest a shark for a sawstop PCS saw because it is equal to but not better than the sawstop guard. I would suggest it for any other saw that does not include sawstop's guard. But the shark cannot be used for non through cuts. So if you are really interested in keeping your table top clean after most every cut and have a useful guard for almost every cut. I would suggest looking at the overhead guards again.