LN 7 or 8?

[Steve Friedman]

I know there have been a ton of posts debating the 7 vs 8 issue, but I still find myself unable to choose.

From everything I have read, there seems to be some consensus that the 7 is a better plane for edge jointing. If money were no object and you could have both, would you buy an 8 for flattening and a 7 for edges?

Is there a disadvantage trying to use something as large as a 7 or 8 for smaller boards? What is the smallest board you would try to flatten with an 8?

Thanks,

Steve

[Rick Erickson]

I have no problem with edges using my No. 8.

[Jim Koepke]

I have both and use both. For edge joining long boards, the #8 usually gets called on first. The #7 is not set up to take as thick a shaving, so that is used on boards that do not need as much work.

About the smallest board that seems practical for the #8 would be something less than 2-1/2" wide and maybe about 20" long. For that a #6 or #5-1/2 would work fine.

One thing to consider is your sharpening equipment if you already have a blade holder. Many blade holders will not accommodate the 2-5/8" blade the #8 uses. I think most can handle the 2-3/8" blades the #7, #6, the modern #5-1/2 & the #4-1/2 planes use.

The fact that the #8 is the only plane that uses that blade size compared to 3 other planes using the same size blade as the #7 may be another consideration in your plane buying decision.

jim

[David Gendron]

I realy like the #8, used to have a #7 but realy like the #8 better, so I would say go for the #8. But of course if the $ is not an issue, buy both and use both and see wich one you like the best, and maybe you will keep both!
But again, where some use a #5, I use a #6, I like the 6 better than the 5...

[Russell Sansom]

I'd just grab the #8 for everything. I have a # 7 in the arsenal and once in a blue moon it seems like the right scale for the job, but for the 20+ years when I had only an 8, I never knew the difference. Personally, I don't feel like any board is too small. Now that I have a quite good #6, I'll grab that just because it's a bit easier to lift out of the plane cabinet with one hand.

[Sam Takeuchi]

If you've read up on #7 vs #8 already and still can't decide which one, opening a new thread isn't going to sway you one way or another. Unless you can handle the two, you won't be able to use them and feel the difference to definitely decide. If you are planning to buy LN plane, get one, whichever you deem it right. If it doesn't fit your preference, sell it, re-sale value is very good and get the other one.

The thing about #7 and #8 is both will do what jointer does fine. The rest is a personal preference. You won't go wrong with either one.

As far as planing small board, you can of course plane a really small board with #7 or 8, but if you don't have any other plane to plane smaller boards, rather than getting a jointer, #5, 5-1/2 or 6 will do overall tasks better than 7 or 8. So if you are thinking about using a jointer for planing small boards, I'd re-think about getting the jointer to begin with.

Post as to why you want a jointer and what other planes you have. Maybe we can say "well how about this?" if we know what you have and what you want to do with them.

[Alex Silva]

can you sharpen the #8 blade with the LV MKII jig ?

Thank you

Alex

[Steve Friedman]

Thanks for all the responses.


Post as to why you want a jointer and what other planes you have. Maybe we can say "well how about this?" if we know what you have and what you want to do with them.

I already have:
LN Scrub
LN #4
Stanley corrugated #6 -Type 19.

I was going to get:
LN Low Angle Jack
New Hock blade for the #6.

There are really only two things I want to be able to do:

Flatten and edge joint boards:
2/4 to 8/4
24" to 60" long
2" to 10" wide

Flatten flitches - as small as 42" x 42" as large as 24" x 60"

Thanks

Steve

[Carl L Goff]

Alex S.
Yes you can. I use it for my #8.

Steve,
I tried out the #7 and #8 and bought the #8. They both work great. Either one would work, just a matter of preference. I liked the extra weight on the #8.

[Jim Koepke]

can you sharpen the #8 blade with the LV MKII jig ?

According to the information on the Veritas Mk.II honing guide, it can hold a blade up to 2-7/8 inches.

My experience is with the Veritas Mk.II Power Sharpening System tool holders. I have made a roller and a set up for them so that they can be used as honing guides. I was able to hold a #8 blade in the tool holder, but not in the prescribed manner. It has me thinking about modifying the holder.

jim

[Alex Silva]

Finally after a lot of reading and all your kind advices my selection of planes to start with is going to be :

LN#8 jointer plane
LN low angle bronze block plane
LN low angle jack plane

I don't have any other planes and these will be my first ones.

I do have a Hammer planerjointer but I will try to joint all my boards with these planes and then use the planer to get to final thickness..

Alex

[Steve Friedman]

Ales's post reminded me that I also have a LN Low Angle Block - how can I forget the one I use the most often?

Steve

[David Keller NC]

Finally after a lot of reading and all your kind advices my selection of planes to start with is going to be :

LN#8 jointer plane
LN low angle bronze block plane
LN low angle jack plane

I don't have any other planes and these will be my first ones.

I do have a Hammer planerjointer but I will try to joint all my boards with these planes and then use the planer to get to final thickness..

Alex

Alex - Your list is a good one, but you may wish to consider a smoother at some later date. One of the primary advantages of handplanes is that you can buy and use boards that are considerably wider than your machines will allow. The jack plane (with an appropriately highly curved blade) will allow you to do the rough removal of mill band-saw marks and a lot of the twist and warp, although in my opinion a BD plane is a better choice for this task; the jointer will allow you to go the rest of the way towards flat and straight. At that point, you have to consider where the board will be used. If it's going to be an internal piece, then it probably doesn't require a smoother. If it's going to be a show surface, it will likely require a pass with a smoother, or scraping with a card scraper or scraping plane.

[James Owen]

Steve,

I normally reach for the #8; however, if you plan to add a (LN) #4-1/2, #5-1/2, and/or a #6 at sometime in the future, one advantage that a #7 has is that it can also take the 50 and 55 degree frogs. If you foresee planing "uncooperative" woods, being able to swap out frogs to match the wood is certainly an advantage.

[Mark Roderick]

You're off to an excellent start.

[Sam Takeuchi]

I think you already have a good set. You really can't go "wrong" with either #7 or 8. You should just jump in and get one. Sell it if it doesn't suit your liking. Shouldn't have too much trouble getting most of value back for re-purchase another one.

[Casey Gooding]

There is clearly only one answer....get both!!

[Joel Goodman]

I would add one thing -- a second blade for the low angle jack. I keep one sharpened at about 27 degrees for end grain and one with a micro bevel at 38 degrees for face grain.