Jointers-six vs eight

[Brian Shutter]

It's been a long time since I've posted on SMC (or even read posts for that matter). Anyway, I'm trying to fight my way back into woodworking (long story) and I've got some questions about jointers. I know that a lot of woodworkers who buy a 6" jointer will upgrade to an 8" soon afterwords realizing that 6" just doesn't have enough capacity. After 20 some years of woodworking I'm finally in the market for a jointer. I haven't used one since high school--got a collection of #4s, #5s, and #7s that used to be enjoyable to use. Not so much anymore.

Anyway, I've got a small shop and small wallet. Anyone out there using a 6" jointer that they're happy with? How often do you wish you had the 8" jointer? I'm considering either a Grizzy or Shopfox. I mostly build smaller tables-end tables, coffee tables, nightstands. But I also will occasionally build a desk or dining table. Woodworking is just a hobby for me. Twenty percent of my stuff gets sold. The rest is either for me or gifts.

So, I'm looking for opinions and advice on what I should buy. Thanks.

Brian

[Myk Rian]

I had a Jet 6" JJ-6CSX that I really liked. It was very well built, and did an excellent job. I sold it for $300 when I picked up a Griz 8". The 8" takes up a lot of room, but the width is nice to have.

[John Buzzurro]

I have the Shop Fox 1741 8", moved up from a 6" Delta. There are many times when I need to joint boards wider than 6". The G0490 is the Grizzly equivalent of the 1741. It's an excellent jointer for the money. If you can swing the $, I'd say go for the 8". I have a small shop too, but was able to fit it in.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I have a 6", but it sure seems like every board I buy is 7" wide.

I had a 8" (DJ-20) for awhile, and wish I would have kept it (got rid of it to save space). If I was doing it again, I'd find a combo jointer/planer, which would give you lots of width with shorter beds.

[Tri Hoang]

If you got some planes, all you need is a planer. It's quick work to rough down the surface to get it relatively stable (similar to those functions provided by a planer jig for jointing wood). and send it through the planer. I'd save you some space as well.

If you must own a tailed jointer, go with 8" and avoid the upgrade trap.

[Scott Vigder]

It all depends on the size boards you'll be using and the projects on the horizon. Your source or supply of lumber may help dictate which way to go.

I bought the Grizz G0490 8" three years ago. There have been times I could have used a few more inches, but this unit covers 90% of the boards I use.

[Byron Trantham]

I've had a Jet 6" for over 10 years. Have I wished I had an 8"? Yea, but after I get the 8" I will wish a had a 12",.....! Where I buy my rough cut they can prep the wood to S3S (surface three sides) for $25/100bf. I couln't get my head around that cost until one day I figured that it cost me over $100 in labor to "use my jointer." End of agony. I bring the stuff home and run it trough my planer. Now I use the jointer for finish work. I works very well for that. A six incher just doesn't handle 8 foot boards very well. Since you are working with what sounds like "shorter" boards, a 6" jointer should serve you well. OBTW, my shop just doesn't have the realestate for an 8" jointer. :D

[David Winer]

This subject seems to come up once in a while here on SMC. The advice normally seems to weigh heavily toward 8 inch vs. 6 inch, based on the width of cuts.

But don't overlook additional bed length as a decided plus when working with long boards.

[Christopher Stahl]

Brian, you'll wish you bought an 8" no matter what you paid for the 6". If the budget is tight, look for a good used 8" in your area. Byron is right though, if you get an 8" you'll wish you had a 12" jointer. I used an 8" Grizzly for years, very good machine. I decided to move to a 12" combo machine last year.

Either way, try to save the money for an 8". Look on Craigslist.

[Frank Drew]

More is definitely better when it comes to jointer capacity; an 8 is better than a 6 and a 12 is better than an 8.

But a 6 is way better than no jointer at all; get what you can get and make the most of it.

[John McClanahan]

My 6" Rockwell takes up enough space in my garage. I don't know where I would put a larger jointer.

John

[glenn bradley]

It will depend on what you plan to build. For me, my 6" was too small 9 times out of 10. My 8" is good 999 times out of 1000. If I did a different type of work those numbers could reverse or change altogether.

[Cary Falk]

I had a Jet open stand jointer for about 3 years. I used it mostly for edge jointing. I was happy with it. I hate setting knives so when mine started getting dull and nicked I changed them and did a pretty bad job at it. It took me a long time but I finally got them usuable but got great. I starting looking at spiral carbide insert heads. I couldn't see putting one on a 6" because I knew the tool junkie in me would buy an 8". I ended up finding a good deal on a Shop Fox W1741. I used the straight knives till they got dull and then replaced the cuterhead with a spiral head.

Now that I have the 8", I use it more than I ever used the 6". I always get S2S but sometimes it is bowed, cupped or warped. I used to try to take it out on the planer. Now I run everything on the jointer first. The long tables are great also.

[Rob Holcomb]

Most of the boards I buy are rough cut and usually 10"-12" wide. I bought a Ridgid 6" jointer because an 8" was a lot more money and even that would have been too small for the boards I get. I slved my problem by building a router sled and got a 1 1/2" bottoming bit. It face joints and width board I can buy. Then I use my little 6" jointer to edge joint the boards. $429 for the jointer, $75 for the router sled parts, 2 hours of labor building the sled.

[Paul Ryan]

I have a 6 it was the first jointer I bought. 99% of my lumber comes from a mill 5 miles from my house. There prices arn't the greatest but the lumber is nice. Rarely do I get a piece that isn't flat. So I hardly ever face joint. Even if I bought rough lumber it is flat enough to plane and have a flat piece. So I really dont NEED a larger jointer. An 8 would be nice and I am always on the look out for a cheap 8 on craigslist but it is not necessary. To this point I have never needed larger than my 6" You can face joint larger pieces on a 6" you just have to be creative. To me a larger planner 15" has been more useful than an 8" jointer would be. But that is just my situation. If you buy material that has twists and bows an 8" maybe more useful.

My suggestion is to watch craigslist, you should have no problem finding a good 6" for $200 or less. Buy it and someday if an 8" comes by that is too good to pass up buy it and sell the 6". A 6" jointer with a closed stand will always bring $200 if kept in good shape. So in that senario what are you out. Nothing really.

[Frank Drew]

You can face joint larger pieces on a 6"

Thank you, Paul; I wish this was more widely known/accepted.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I routinely joint boards up to 10" wide on my 6" jointer. I have done this for years. The technique was featured in an article in FWW a couple years back. I only wish the beds on my 6" were longer.