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View Full Version : What is your best Wolverine tip or suggestion?



Roger Bullock
03-21-2010, 7:58 AM
I've been aiming to post these questions for a while now and since Jim Underwood showed us his new sharpening station, I thought now is the time.
I too just recently purchased the Wolverine Jig with the Vari-grind 2 and up graded to the Delta 8" variable speed grinder. Everyone here is so helpful and usually provides good information so here goes.

What are your best tips or suggestions for using the Wolverine sharpening system?

Which grinding wheels do you suggest and best place to purchase them?

Got any Do's or Don't do this?

Do you use any homemade jigs (remember no pics, didn't happen)?

Show off your station if you like, we all like to see the other guys setup.

John Keeton
03-21-2010, 8:16 AM
Roger, I will be interested in the suggestions you get here. I am curious as to how you like the Vari-grind 2? In making a decision on what to buy, there seemed to be some varying opinions on whether to get the original, or version 2.

Thought I would edit to add a pic of the markings I make on my jig for my Thompson detail gouge, and bowl gouge. I realize that as the wheel looses diameter, the angle of my grind changes. But, it is so minute, at this point, I am not concerned about it. When I change wheels, it will return me to the original angle.

Roger Bullock
03-21-2010, 9:27 AM
John, I had been reading such good comments on the Wolverine here at SMC but wanted to see it before I purchased on. It takes me over an hour to get to the Woodcraft store in St. Louis and once there they only had the #2 version. Salesman sounded knowledgeable and said this version was designed to give better results on the fingernail grind. I just took his word on it and purchased it.

I haven't gotten too carried away using it (partly the reason for this post) but I'm quite happy with it so far. I can't compare it to the version #1 as I have never used one. I did have an off brand jig I purchased at a woodworking show a few years ago and can say this system is light years ahead of that one.

So I'll add this to my list of questions; For those that have had both the original and the #2 version, give us your feedback.

Bob Haverstock
03-21-2010, 11:05 AM
Roger,

I have a definite DO. Every time that use the Wolerine System, check the locking cams for tightness! I had been using a roughing gouge and had touched it up several times with out rechecking the cams. The tail bar slipped, the gouge caught. The gouge was thrown downward againt the center finger of my left hand. My fingernail was knocked off, luckily I had just come from the toilet. It left me with a naked finger for a few weeks.

This was not so much an equipment error, but it was an error on my part. I was not methodically careful! Hopefully, you can learn from my mistake!

Bob Haverstock

[QUOTE=Roger Bullock;1378776]I too just recently purchased the Wolverine Jig with the Vari-grind 2 and up graded to the Delta 8" variable speed grinder. Everyone here is so helpful and usually provides good information so here goes.

What are your best tips or suggestions for using the Wolverine sharpening system?


Got any Do's or Don't do this?

QUOTE]

David E Keller
03-21-2010, 12:46 PM
I mark the bar on the jig just like John does to give me a ballpark starting point for where to set the arm.

If you have access to the early Jimmy Clewes videos, he gives several tips for using the Wolverine system.

I made a gauge block for my bowl gouges to set the amount of the gouge that protrudes from the varigrind... Mr. Clewes just uses the length of the pocket at the end of the arm to set the amount of gouge protruding. I've tried it and it seems to work well.

For sharpening scrapers, you can set the platform with a downward tilt, and then shapening the tool upside-down. This seems to form a more pronounced burr. It's another Clewes tip. I don't know that I can tell much difference from sharpening that way, but I started doing it after I watched his video.

For skews, I rarely sharpen on the wheel, but I use a diamond hone quite frequently. I get better cuts, and honing is much faster for me than sharpening.

Roger Bullock
03-21-2010, 1:08 PM
Thanks for the tips so far. David at the present, I tape sandpaper to my table saw to sharpen my skew, seems to work pretty well since I'm just improving the edge.

I did take a scrap wood block and drilled a series of 1 3/4 inch holes to set the length of each chisel coming out of the jig like the instructions suggested. This give me the same protrusion each time.

John Keeton
03-21-2010, 3:40 PM
Roger, I also have the depth gauge block and it is visible to the left of my grinder - attached to the bench. Forgot to mention that, but it sounds like you have that covered.

Jim Underwood
03-21-2010, 4:41 PM
Get good grinding stones.

All the jigs in the world aren't worth a toot if your stone doesn't grind....

I was trying to modify some of my grinds yesterday after getting my jig set up, and was using one of the grey stones that normally come on grinders.... Ughhh. took forever...:o

And thanks for posting this thread. The tip about using the platform the "wrong way" for scrapers made my day. I'm going to play with different grinds for scrapers until I can get one to actually cut...

The point about tightening the handles made me sit up straight! :eek:

I'll echo John and say the depth block is visible on my grinding setup too. Well worth the time to make or buy one.

Gregory Cowart
03-22-2010, 12:15 AM
http://www.bigtreetools.com/products/sharpening-machine.html Take a look at this sharpener. I bought one and sharpened my lathe tools and it was quick and did a good job. The wolverine vari-grind is used with one of the attachments and does great doing a finger nail grind. The buffing wheel on the side with some compound that is supplied takes the burr off quickly and very well. It does a "flat" grind and it is very easy to sharpen while turning. Greg

Jon Lanier
03-22-2010, 12:20 AM
Best Tip... hmmmm

Go Buckeyes, beat the Wolverines!!! :D

Thom Sturgill
03-22-2010, 7:35 AM
Keep the wheel(s) flat. I just use one of the T-handled diamond wheel dressers, but you must use something to keep the wheels flat and true. From what I've read, the varagrind 2 keeps you to the center of the wheel better, but that accelerates the wear.
I have several grinders, a grizzly wet grinder that I use only occasionally, my go-to station - a variable speed Delta 8" grinder that has a wolverine base mounted under a 120 grit white wheel (Woodcraft, I believe) and an MDF honing wheel, and a six inch HS (Ryobi) grinder that I use occasionally for reshaping)