Making stainable filler?

[Phil Thien]

I'm going to use some milk paint on a project and I need to fill some holes, first.

They say to use a stainable solvent-based filler made w/ sawdust.

So I have plenty of sawdust. What would be a good glue to add to the sawdust that wouldn't block a stain?

[Ramsey Ramco]

I have had good luck using titebond premium

[Philip Duffy]

On pieces that are going to be painted I use Bondo; stable smooth, sandable, does not shrink. Looks totally natural when milk paint is applied. For worm holes it might be easier to just use the sawdust and wood glue. Phil

[Terry Hatfield]

If the holes are small, I'd just put a touch of Titebond on the hole and sand over it. The dust will fill the hole as you sand.

[Phil Thien]

I've used wood glue as a binder in the past. And I've also used super glue. Just wondering what would constitute a solvent-based binder.

It isn't critical. But what do they use as a binder in stainable wood filler? Can't be wood glue, that stuff isn't stainable (is it?).

[David DeCristoforo]

"Stainable filler" is one of those things that should "not be taken literally". It is "stainable" in that it will actually absorb stain. But how well it will match the surrounding wood in a whole different story. The best thing is to stain first, Then use color putty mixed to match and then top coat. I have had good results with this method, even with oil finishes.

[John Harden]

"Stainable filler" is one of those things that should "not be taken literally". It is "stainable" in that it will actually absorb stain. But how well it will match the surrounding wood in a whole different story. The best thing is to stain first, Then use color putty mixed to match and then top coat. I have had good results with this method, even with oil finishes.

+1 on this advice. I've tried to make stainable fillers for years. Sure, if you make them right, they'll absorb a stain versus reject it. Get clever and you can even make one that won't absorb too much and just look like a dark line.

For paint grade work (like milk paint), I'd just go with the advice you're getting here as it is spot on.

If its a larger mistake (like I've done :o} and foor stain grade work, I learned the hard way to take the time and make a patch out of the same wood. An offcut laying around will likely work great.

Just find a grain pattern that matches and have at it. I like using a router to make the recess.

Regards,

John

[Phil Thien]

Thanks guys.

The only point of the "stainable" in this case is that the filler absorb some of the milk paint. Milk paint doesn't sit on the surface like latex, it is absorbed into the substrate like a stain.

I am experimenting with different types of fillers, and the harder/less absorbent (when cured) they are, the more you can see them under the milk paint.

Latex caulk is kinda neat because it causes very small crackling of the milk paint. But unless you're going to coat your entire project...

I have to be near a Lowe's tomorrow anyhow, I'm going to try some of the solvent-based stuff suggested by one of the milk paint manufacturers.