Finishing cherry

[Harlan Barnhart]

I am working on a small desk in cherry. I like natural looking finishes, nothing too dark. I would like some type of oil, hand rubbed finish. Any recommendations?

[Frederick Rowe]

I like Tried and True Wood Finishes. For semi-gloss use their Varnish Oil. For satin sheen use Danish Oil. All of the T&T oils are very thick and need to be applied in thin coats - don't flood and wipe. No petroleum solvents or driers. Finish with wax if desired. Doesn't get any easier.

[Carl L Goff]

Harlan, I have tried several different finishes on cherry. I only use Formby's tung oil finish ( low gloss ) now. I put on 3 to 4 coats and hand rub between coats and put a coat of paste wax when done. It will pop the grain and don't blotch the cherry like other's do. This is my way but you might find other way's you like better.

[Steve Griffin]

I've tried a number of oil/wax finishes, and think I like the Bioshield products the best so far. They seem to last longer before needing a touch up coat. I did a cherry office about three years ago with this method, and it still seems almost as good as new. (Though on my own projects, I like to spray varnish so it doesn't EVER need recoating like evaporative finishes do).

When I do a rub on finish, I use "Hard oil #9" followed by "Hardwax #32". One coat or maybe two of the oil, and then one of the wax. Couldn't be easier.

Whatever you do, don't just put on a danish oil/tung oil finish by itself. In less than a year it will be mostly evaporated and start collecting dirt and grime in the wood wherever you touch it. If you don't have a varnish or poly component to the oil, a wax job is very important. I also like Scidmores wax, but I think the bioshield seems like a better, longer lasting product. (I could be a victim of the advertising hype though...).

Very nice looking desk by the way!

-Steve

[Jim Becker]

Like Frederick, I like Tried and True oil products; at least the plain oil and the bees' wax and oil combination. But I don't like the varnish oil formula. My wife's cherry desk was finished in the wax/oil product back in 1998 and looks like new. It's been re-waxed three times since then--each time it's been moved to a new location.

If you want a little more so-called protection, but still the look of an oil finish, a 1/3-1/3-1/3 mixture of BLO, oil based varnish and mineral spirits will make you a nice wipe-on "Danish oil" that will penetrate at first but build very little.

[Scott Holmes]

Frederick,

For your information... Formby's Tung Oil Finish is an Alkyd Resin/Soya oil varnish mixed 20% varnish with 80% mineral spirits.

There's not a drop of real tung oil in it; the varnish was made with Soya oil nt tung oil... Marketing genius, it's about the color of pure tung oil that's it.

[Casey Gooding]

I also like the T&T finishes. Thin coats are the key to success with them. Also, the oil/varnish/spirits mixture will look really nice over cherry. Whatever you use, make sure you use something oil based for the first coat(s) to help bring out the grain and rich color of the cherry.

[Harlan Barnhart]

Thanks for the replies. Does anyone think it a crime to use a varnish/oil finish without stain?

[Joe Cunningham]

Thanks for the replies. Does anyone think it a crime to use a varnish/oil finish without stain?

Absolutely not. I like cherry with just a varnish or an oil/varnish, no stain, no dye, maybe just a shellac first coat when I use straight varnish.

I think cherry looks great all on its own.

[Jerry Olexa]

I also never put a stain on cherry. Let its natural beauty show!!!

[Casey Gooding]

I think it's more of a crime to use the stain. It looks much better to just sit the piece out in the sun for a few days.