DowelMax Impression

[Glenn Vaughn]

hve been working with the dowelmax for a little over a week now and have some comments:

Overall it works well.

A major problem, at least to me, is the fact that the Reference Bracket, Reference Block and Reference Clamp are all different widths. When drilling in the edges the Reference BVlock is the logical surface to align with the edge. Drilling a bunch of edge holes then switching to face holes puts a different components edge on the point where flush was being measured (I do the check by feel) resulting in the edge holes being offset if you check the wrong spot for flush. It seems to me that it would have been more logical to have the pieces all the same width.

The indexing pin would be better if there was a slight taper on the end - it would ease it going into the dowel holes. Using 3/8" instead of 9.7mm drill bits makes for a very tight fit.

The knurled nuts hae a tendency to loosen during use so I find myself having to check them after every couple of holes - failing to do so can result in edge misalignment.

[Clint Schlosser]

I concur and have similar gripes but overall it still creates a semi-quick joint that is well aligned and strong.

[Brian Penning]

I have no problems with mine. The components are so accurately machined that the different "widths" aren't a factor.
Will agree about the knurled knobs though.

[Bill Huber]

I am not sure I understand what the problem you are having is.

If you use the check mark on all the surfaces you are going to work with and then put the check marks on those surfaces I have never had a problem with them lining up when put together.

The pin has to be tight or it would not reference correctly, you can not have any play in it.

On the screws coming loose you will get used to the amount of pressure you need to apply to them to keep them tight. I did change the round knobs with start knobs and that does help with doing a lot of holes. The more you use it the better the nuts will set in and stay tight better. I never have mine come loose any more.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=117600&highlight=Dowelmax

This is another mod I did to the Dowelmax.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=107921&highlight=Dowelmax

[Glenn Vaughn]

I am not sure I understand what the problem you are having is.

If you use the check mark on all the surfaces you are going to work with and then put the check marks on those surfaces I have never had a problem with them lining up when put together.



Let me try to explain this using a 1X4 as an example.

When drilling the edge the reference block (the one with the bushings) is placed flush to the edge. I get in the habit of chceking the flushness by using my finger and feeling the junction between the block and the edge. This check point is on the 3/4" wide edge of the board.

When I switch to drilling the faces the check point moves from the 3/4" edge to the 3 3/4" edge - making the 3/4" edge flush causes the holes to be off by 1/16".

I can see no logical reason for the 3 main components to be different widths - especially in a $300 jig.

Am I saying I am sorry I bought it? No - it is a good tool.
Am I saying that it could have been a little better designed? Absolutely.

[Bill Huber]

Let me try to explain this using a 1X4 as an example.

When drilling the edge the reference block (the one with the bushings) is placed flush to the edge. I get in the habit of chceking the flushness by using my finger and feeling the junction between the block and the edge. This check point is on the 3/4" wide edge of the board.

When I switch to drilling the faces the check point moves from the 3/4" edge to the 3 3/4" edge - making the 3/4" edge flush causes the holes to be off by 1/16".

I can see no logical reason for the 3 main components to be different widths - especially in a $300 jig.

Am I saying I am sorry I bought it? No - it is a good tool.
Am I saying that it could have been a little better designed? Absolutely.

I think I understand, but you always use the block with the bushing in it as your end reference. No mater what size board or where you are going to drill the holes, that block is the end reference.

I think you are using the wrong reference, the check mark on the side plate is just for the surface you are to place it on and again you always us the check mark on the main block as your end reference.

Go to the videos and look at the 1x4 to 1x4 end to face, is this what you are doing?
http://www.dowelmax.com/videos.html

[Glenn Vaughn]

I think I understand, but you always use the block with the bushing in it as your end reference. No mater what size board or where you are going to drill the holes, that block is the end reference.

I think you are using the wrong reference, the check mark on the side plate is just for the surface you are to place it on and again you always us the check mark on the main block as your end reference.

Go to the videos and look at the 1x4 to 1x4 end to face, is this what you are doing?
http://www.dowelmax.com/videos.html

Bill,

I fully underswtand about using the block as the reference. What happens is that I get used to sliding my finger along the edge to fee the block and setting it flush. Whether I am drilling edges or faces the board is always oriented the same - it is set on edge in the vise. Because I don't want to be constantly switching the configuration of the DowelMax and changing bits I do all the edges first. I then reconfigure, change bits and do the faces.

Drilling the faces requires feeling across the edge instead og along the edge. I am older than dirt and form habits quickly when doing repetive tasks. If I forget that I need to change the direction of the check for flush I will drill the first hole 1/16" offset because of the difference of the fit of the pieces of the jig.

I find it interesting that the drawing of the jig on the cover of the manual that comes with it shows the edges as fluch (as do some photos I found in early reviesws of the product).

I rely on feel more than vision since I have some vision difficulty - no depth perception and missing areas. I have to be real careful when selecting the proper bushings for drilling since sometimes I only see 4 instead of 5. When I first developed the vision problem (AMD), it was a real trip driving - cars in the oncoming lane would disappear then reappear at certain points - thankfully I found a good retina specialist and most of that has been corrected.

The arrows in the photo show the direction of travel of the finger when checking for flushness.

[Bill Huber]

Bill,

I fully underswtand about using the block as the reference. What happens is that I get used to sliding my finger along the edge to fee the block and setting it flush. Whether I am drilling edges or faces the board is always oriented the same - it is set on edge in the vise. Because I don't want to be constantly switching the configuration of the DowelMax and changing bits I do all the edges first. I then reconfigure, change bits and do the faces.

Drilling the faces requires feeling across the edge instead og along the edge. I am older than dirt and form habits quickly when doing repetive tasks. If I forget that I need to change the direction of the check for flush I will drill the first hole 1/16" offset because of the difference of the fit of the pieces of the jig.

I find it interesting that the drawing of the jig on the cover of the manual that comes with it shows the edges as fluch (as do some photos I found in early reviesws of the product).

I rely on feel more than vision since I have some vision difficulty - no depth perception and missing areas. I have to be real careful when selecting the proper bushings for drilling since sometimes I only see 4 instead of 5. When I first developed the vision problem (AMD), it was a real trip driving - cars in the oncoming lane would disappear then reappear at certain points - thankfully I found a good retina specialist and most of that has been corrected.

The arrows in the photo show the direction of travel of the finger when checking for flushness.

So what you are saying is, it's not the tool, its the user is not using the correct area to make the reference.

Now if you made the side plates so they could be used as the reference then it would be so hard to get them off, there has to be some slop in the side plates so you can get them off and on. The thing is you do not want slop in the reference edge so that is why you always you the main block.

I don't know for sure but I would say Jim mad them that way so you they would not interfere with the reference block.

Some other things, I did buy another bit and stop for this type of work, it really makes things go much faster.
I also have a small hard maple block the I use as with the DowelMax on the reference end of the block. I hold the little block and the main block of the DowelMax in one hand and the slide it until it stops, lock down.

[Chuck Tringo]

Try attaching a small piece of wood (1/8 x 1/2 x 1 give or take) as a reference with some double stick tape to that side and using that to butt up against the edges....this should come off easily enough when you move towards the center of the piece. I do wish that they had included a piece here that could be swung out of the way ala the joint genie, but this is what I have come up with mine to account for my poor tactile abilities, which seem to leave me with a slight offset more often than not. I have never had problems with the screws coming loose.

[Mark Koury]

Glenn,

In your picture if you intend to join the boards edge to side then you are using the wrong reference side for the edge. Reverse the DowelMax on the edge board and all should be well. Mine works great! :)