Wood for saw handles?

[Andrew Gibson]

So as you all probably know I am getting ready to put together some saws. I plan to order the plates and such in a few weeks after I deliver the rocker I am working on and get back from a road trip. However I started working on cleaning up the old disston I have and I want to pick up some wood to make the handles out of... This should give it a decent amount of time to acclimate.

I went to a couple new lumber yards today to see what they had and try to decide what I want to use to make the handles.

Now I have no idea. I started out thinking walnut and maybe cherry. Then I thought figured maple. Then the owner of one of the lumber yards suggested a bunch of exotic like bloodwood, mahogany, and he had a piece of figured cherry that was beautiful( but he wanted $40 for a 3 foot piece he had. I am even thinking purpleheart would be nice.

I figure something close to quarter sawn would be best.

What would you use if you were making saw handles for 4 or 5 new saws? I think I would use figured walnut if I could get it for a price I can afford, but I dont know and I don't think I will find any. I may even make a new handle for the Independence dovetail saw I have just so they all match so that would bring the total number of handles to 6.

BTW I want you personal opinion of what you would want.

[george wilson]

The traditional wood is beech. Applewood was used for many premium saws in the 19th.C.. I used curly maple on the ones in the FAQ section at the top of this forum section. Some of those heavier woods might make the saw not balance well.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Hmm. That's an interesting observation. What is the difference in weight between a beech handle and an oak or maple handle?

[Jim Koepke]

There were some of rosewood or cocobolo at the LN Tool Events in Portland and Seattle that looked real nice.

I think purple heart is a bit splintery. A wood that naturally feels smooth when it is worked would likely be better.

Maple sounds good to me.

jim

[Will Brauneis]

When i made my saw handle i used bubinga. At first i was thinking about using beech for a more traditional look or ash for strength or possibly maple or walnut. But in the end i wanted to dress it up a little with an exotic. I really liked how the brownish red of bubinga sets the brass off. Also it is easy to find quarter sawn stock and bubinga isn't too expensive 35$ should get you enough to make 5 handles. Even for how hard it is it cuts sands and files easily. But it is really up to you and your tastes because you are the one who will be using them everyday. Good luck on your project, handles are quite fun to make!

Will

[Don C Peterson]

I used Walnut for a couple of saw handles I made. Walnut, for me, represents a nearly perfect combination of workability, strength and looks.

It might seem a bit pedestrian compared to the exotic woods, but Walnut gets the job done, and like George suggested, I don't really like having too much weight in the handle.

[george wilson]

I was referring to bloodwood. It's heavy,and hard as all get out,Johnathon.

[Tony Joyce]

I just cut these this week for the Gramercy carcase kit saws I'm working on. They are Bubinga. The finished dovetail saw is an Adria which I patterned these handles after, but shows what the finished handle looks like.

145564

[Brian Kent]

I really like walnut and maple for saw handles. I like exotics too, like padauk, cocobolo, and bloodwood for tool making, but for saw handles, the walnut and maple just feel right to me.

[James Ogle]

I have a couple of old saws that I need to make new handles for and I have been thinking of mesquite. I need to pick up 8/4 some for a blanket chest and night stands I am planning. Thought I would see if the left overs would work for a new handle and a tote for my old #6.

[Andrew Gibson]

Just got back from my favorite Lumber yard. I was talking to my buddy there and He said I have just the thing. Back in the corner he had stuffed a 9" x 11' board of Curly Hard Maple. Plenty more then I need for saw handles. Apparently a guy wanted the board then ended up not taking it.
So... I ended up with a back door special and he threw in a piece of 5/4 Sapele that was left over from an order that has nice tight ribbon. All that for $20.

The maple has been plained down and is right between 7/8" and 15/16" depending on where you measure. Should be perfect for my purpose.

Now I have to figure out what to do with the Sapele.

[Brian Kent]

Andrew, congratulations. Please show us as you use it.

[Rick Erickson]

Whaaat! 9" x 11' for $20? What a score! Congrats. Where in Florida was that?

[Andrew Gibson]

Lets just say I live a little north of tampa, and the place is about an hour away. I don't know if anyone that works there uses this site so I don't want to get anyone in trouble, although the boss man aproved the deal. o

Ill see if I can get a pic of some of the wood up. I doubt I will be cutting into the bard for a couple weeks though. Let it aclimate and get back from my trip.

heading out in a few minuets to check out the woodworking show at the tampa fairgrounds, maybe I will find another deal. :)


Whaaat! 9" x 11' for $20? What a score! Congrats. Where in Florida was that?

[Andrew Gibson]

Well I just got back from the Woodworking show and wow was there a ton of router stuff there... just what I don't want. Lee Valley was there and I was really impressed with there planes. Picked up an inexpensive set of dividers and talked with a few guys in the Tampa woodworking club.

When I get home I had two packages in the mailbox 2 saw sets and some files. I guess I need to get to work on making that saw vise.

Here Is a quick pic of the Maple I got yesterday, and a pic of all the tools that made there way into the collection + My Grandfathers saw I am working on cleaning up.

Thanks again Jim for the Apex Set.

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/handyandy3459/100_0689.jpghttp://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/handyandy3459/100_0692.jpg

Ooh and my Fiance cashed in a scratch ticket on our way back from the show and ended up being $24 she thought it was $10, took the 20 and bought 4 more tickets, and won another $24. so the morning was paid for in scratch ticket winnings! :D

[Peter Bell]

I just cut these this week for the Gramercy carcase kit saws I'm working on. They are Bubinga. The finished dovetail saw is an Adria which I patterned these handles after, but shows what the finished handle looks like.

145564
----------------------

Tony.

Could you please tell us how you actually cut the saw handles. I am assuming you used a scroll saw and not a band saw, am I correct?

The work looks neatly done.

Peter

[Tony Joyce]

Peter,
These are CNC cut. I used the Adria for a pattern and adjusted the hang to the pattern supplied with the Gramercy saws. Scanned the paper and opened it in my design software(Aspire) to toolpath it. I drilled and counter bored for the saw screws on the CNC and then cut the outside profile. The picture shows them still(held with tabs) in the Bubinga blank I used. I'll have to counterbore the other side for the saw screws, slot for the blade, slot for the back stiffener and do the rounding, but I'm a long way down the road to being finished.

[Eric Brown]

Sounds like you picked your wood already but here's another wood choice opinion anyway. Different woods for different types of saws. I had my saws made with maple handles for crosscut and walnut for rip. Most my saws are in pairs and stored next to each other according to size. This allows organizing them and picking the one I want easy without needing to look at the blade to make sure. Here is a link: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=131001

I'm currently working on chisels with the same way of thinking.

Enjoy. Eric

[Andrew Gibson]

Eric, thanks for the input. I decided from the start that I wanted all the handles to match in wood species. I do think your idea is a very good one however and your saws look great! I was thinking that if I have an issue I may carve a C or R in the handles for identification if needed. But I have a feeling that the difference in tooth count may be enough.


Sounds like you picked your wood already but here's another wood choice opinion anyway. Different woods for different types of saws. I had my saws made with maple handles for crosscut and walnut for rip. Most my saws are in pairs and stored next to each other according to size. This allows organizing them and picking the one I want easy without needing to look at the blade to make sure. Here is a link: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=131001

I'm currently working on chisels with the same way of thinking.

Enjoy. Eric

[Andrew Gibson]

Well I am one step closer, I finished my saw vise.
I had some really nice Ash left over from my last project, I still have a fair amount left. Anyway I copied the one Bob Rozaieski has on his site, and I am really happy with the way it turned out. I even turned and threaded the screw my self

The jaws of the vise are 16" long and I believe I made the jaws stand about 13" above bench height. It seems like it will be a comfortable height for standing and filing.

Here are a couple pic's.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/handyandy3459/100_0693.jpghttp://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/handyandy3459/100_0696.jpg

Next step is to turn some file handles, good thing I have nice curly hard maple lying around... :D