Router Plate Inserts

[Chris Parks]

I am building a router top and have a question if I may. It has been obvious to me that the professional guys involved in routing do not use the drop in inserts on their router tables. The questions are..

Why don't they use them
What purpose do they serve

or

Why do the manufactured plates have the inserts

My top is 18mm MDF but the router plate is 10mm aluminium I found laying behind a guillotine and I am not going to machine it until I have a few more answers about the inserts.

Also, while I am here, why does everyone use super thick tops when with a little bit of thinking and extra work there is no need if the proper framing is put under the top, I just don't get it.

[Philip Rodriquez]

Hi Chris, good questions. Here is my take on it. Oh, and I have a router table, 4 routers, and a 3 HP Shaper. I'm not saying that I'm an expert... but I do know what I like.

Router inserts, why use them:

Work piece support. They allow a person to use a variety of router bits. After all, you need a hole big enough to run your largest bit... but that may be too big for your smaller bits.
The pro's do use them... but they are not absolutely necessary. They do, however, help keep a piece from getting hung-up or bowing down during your cut. again, it is all about the work piece support. Heck, look at shapers, they all have them.
Why use super thick tops:

Weight is a really good thing. It dampens the vibration and can reduce the noise of the router. Plus, I can glue and screw two pieces of MDF faster than you can cut the ribs and glue them in. MDF is cheap, don't be afraid to use it!

[David Thompson 27577]

..................

Also, while I am here, why does everyone use super thick tops when with a little bit of thinking and extra work there is no need if the proper framing is put under the top, I just don't get it.

In addition to the speed with which a thick top can be made, there can be an issue with the framing -- which would also provide the support if done properly.

Remember though, that there can't be any of that framing running under the removable plate -- because that's where the router will be hanging. As a result, the center of the table top can't be supported with framing.

[Chris Parks]

In addition to the speed with which a thick top can be made, there can be an issue with the framing -- which would also provide the support if done properly.

Remember though, that there can't be any of that framing running under the removable plate -- because that's where the router will be hanging. As a result, the center of the table top can't be supported with framing.

First off my apologies as I posted this in the wrong place, I think it should have been in the general section. Mods, would it be possible to move it? thanks.

David, the framing only needs to clear the router as it is installed so in fact it can go under the plate, all it needs is that it be arranged to suit access to the router. Mind you, given a thick enough piece of aluminium plate it does not need to do this and only needs to support the surrounding top. I have seen a lot of stories telling of very thick MDF tops bending and I can't understand why steps are not taken to provide the support when it is generally a fairly simple task to do so. I accept that it is far quicker to just slap a thick top on though but having to re-do it later is not my idea of fun.

[Chris Parks]

Hi Chris, good questions. Here is my take on it. Oh, and I have a router table, 4 routers, and a 3 HP Shaper. I'm not saying that I'm an expert... but I do know what I like.

Router inserts, why use them:

Work piece support. They allow a person to use a variety of router bits. After all, you need a hole big enough to run your largest bit... but that may be too big for your smaller bits.
The pro's do use them... but they are not absolutely necessary. They do, however, help keep a piece from getting hung-up or bowing down during your cut. again, it is all about the work piece support. Heck, look at shapers, they all have them.
Why use super thick tops:

Weight is a really good thing. It dampens the vibration and can reduce the noise of the router. Plus, I can glue and screw two pieces of MDF faster than you can cut the ribs and glue them in. MDF is cheap, don't be afraid to use it!


Phil, thanks for the reply. I have never studied a shaper so did not realise they used them. I might go ahead then and make my own. I will machine the aluminium plate and hold steel inserts with rare earth magnets, this seems to the simplest solution and the cleanest. I know some will be horrified with that but I can't see a problem. On the other hand a biggish insert held with anodised screws would look good and impress those who need impressing.

[glenn bradley]

Inserts are obviously useful and a safety feature as described. I have 11 different size holes plus some ZCI'd ones where I bored through. All have been used but most used are a 1", -3/8, 1-7/8" and none to clear a 3-916" panel bit but, that will vary with what you do.

My first top was 3/4" MDF and it sagged (inverse effect of the infamous Rousseau router plate often discussed). I built in supporting ribs and all was well. I desired a top that extended beyond the sides of my cabinet to allow clamping and the new top I found on clearance at Rockler just happened to be 1-1/8"; same supporting ribs, no worries.

[Tony Shea]

I am actually just beginning the process of building a router table myself. As for the inserts, they are absolutely a great accessory to be able to use just as you do for your tablesaw, chopsaw, or anything else that has a blade extend past the material support. They create cleaner cuts as well as a safer enviroment.

The thick top is also a great idea as someone else already posted, weight and resistance to sagging. And I agree that adding support under just one layer of 3/4" MDF would combat the sag but then your giving up the dampening effects of the thick top. If you do just use one layer with supports I would get as close to around the router plate as possible with the supports as MDF will no dought sag over time if supported a long way away from the load. Just around the outside is not sufficient. And I also agree that just laminating two sheets of MDF together and not adding support is not going to garuntee that your surface is flat and remain flat. I've had this happen to me while laminating 4 sheets together on a flat surface and still somehow ended up with a slight bow across the length. I beleive it had something to do with moisture in the glue as well as outside enviroment. If I had access to vacume clamping system then I believe it would be a non issue.

Anyways, my plan for the router top is to laminate two sheets of 3/4" MDF with jointed wooden supports screwed and glued in specific spots underneath the table. This will help me garuntee the flat surface and I will still have the advantage of the thick top to help eliminate sound and vibrations. I've been doing much thought about my top and am finally going to pull the trigger. The cabinet is wating.

[Myk Rian]

It has been obvious to me that the professional guys involved in routing do not use the drop in inserts on their router tables.
Where did you get that info?

[Chris Parks]

Where did you get that info?

By looking at the Router workshop for one, those guys earn a living using routers and simplicity is obviously a byword with them. I could not see where Pat Warner uses one either. I did not bother going any further but I will have a look.

[Chris Parks]

The thick top is also a great idea as someone else already posted, weight and resistance to sagging.

I have used a router attached to a thin metal table and vibration did not appear to me to be a problem. Conversely I have never used one on a very thick top so you may well be right, it never occurred to me to tell the truth. More to this stuff than meets the eye, I might get it finished this time next year.

[Myk Rian]

By looking at the Router workshop for one, those guys earn a living using routers and simplicity is obviously a byword with them. I could not see where Pat Warner uses one either. I did not bother going any further but I will have a look.
Router Workshop? They make and sell their own table series. It has an insert, as well as did the ones they used on the show. Go to www.oak-park.com (http://www.oak-park.com) and look around.
By the way, Bob and Rick also have their own website. www.routerforums.com (http://www.routerforums.com)

[Peter Aeschliman]

Router inserts also make it easier to remove/install the router and change out router bits...