No Bandsaw...Need advise on how to tackle a task

[George Farra]

Hi Everyone

I've got 2 peices of cherry approx 2.5" thick, 7" wide and 40" long. They are going to be formed into legs for a hall table.

The wood is not surfaced, its all rough and has enough deformity in it that I wouldn't want to run it through the TS without some prep.

My jointer is 6" and planer 12". If I had a bandsaw, I would use that to rip the wood into widths approx 3.5", then joint/TS/Plane to final dimensions.

Without a bandsaw....how would you guys go about this. I'm concerned that simply jointing an edge poses a kickback threat if I rip on the TS.

Thoughts??

Thanks

George

[mreza Salav]

Hi Everyone

I've got 2 peices of cherry approx 2.5" thick, 7" wide and 40" long. They are going to be formed into legs for a hall table.

The wood is not surfaced, its all rough and has enough deformity in it that I wouldn't want to run it through the TS without some prep.

My jointer is 6" and planer 12". If I had a bandsaw, I would use that to rip the wood into widths approx 3.5", then joint/TS/Plane to final dimensions.

Without a bandsaw....how would you guys go about this. I'm concerned that simply jointing an edge poses a kickback threat if I rip on the TS.

Thoughts??

Thanks

George

You can face join it on your 6" jointer using a known technique:
remove the gard and whatever pin is there to get a flat surface.
If you have a 1/8" piece of MDF or a very flat piece and that is 6" wide use that to put on your infeed table (you can use a stop at the end of it and hook it to the front edge of your infeed).
Then taking the passes over your jointer you can get a 6" strip that is flat (the rest of the board that doesn't get flat rides above the table/guard assembly with the help of that 1/8" piece you put).
Take that a 1/8" piece and attach it temporarily to the flat face and run the other side through the planer.

[John Lanciani]

I bet if you posted your location, someone would offer to lend a hand (or a machine). ;)

[Buck Williams]

I could be wrong, but I don't think that the rollers on a planer are going to flatten a piece that is 2.5" thick like it would a piece of 4/4. In other words the piece won't spring back to it's original cupped, or twisted form like a 4/4 piece would. I used my planer on some 8/4 stock that I wanted to finish to 1-3/4" for some table legs that had some flatness issues and the planer did the job. Then with a one flat surface you're good to go to put an edge on with the jointer.

[Dave Sepucha]

Given my very limited shop and my understanding of your question, I'd use my tracksaw to rip that sucker, then cleanup on the jointer. If the required cut depth is deeper than the capacity of the saw, I'd make a pass from each side of the board.

[Brett Nelson]

Send one side through your jointer.
Measure/mark 3.5" from the edge on both ends.
Clamp a straightedge on from mark to mark
Using straightedge as an edge guide, rip with circular saw.
To prevent future movement, sticker and dry for a couple days.
Plane the faces for thickness
Joint the edges
Get a nice cold lemonade

[Tom Rick]

2.5 is not much to work with if you have to re-saw several times to get it squared up but....

Joint one edge true, glue the plank plate-wise to a piece of 1/4" ply with some spray foam & rip on TS (ply down-jointed side to fence), demo off the ply/foam and joint or re-saw to square up.

[Doug Shepard]

In my previous 6" jointer life I would have taken jack or even scrub plane to the flatest face, just enough to get any rocking out of it. Then run it through the planer to get one face really flat then turn it over to make another pass or two over the hand planed face, then edge joint and rip.

[John Coloccia]

In my previous 6" jointer life I would have taken jack or even scrub plane to the flatest face, just enough to get any rocking out of it. Then run it through the planer to get one face really flat then turn it over to make another pass or two over the hand planed face, then edge joint and rip.

Ditto. That's exactly why I have a jack plane kicking around. I use it to knock down the really bad spots before tossing it on a machine. it lets me better control which parts of the board, and it what order, they're machined. it's also quite useful for getting the board to the point it won't wobble on the initial passes.

[Jeff Dunlap]

I would build a planer sled( Plenty of how to's on this site if you search) get that side flat, then plan to near finished thickness. I would then edge joint on edge and then rip on table saw. I made a planer sled it its nice to not have to rip pieces over the capacity of my jointer then put them back together, so you could potentially get alot of good use out of the planer sled not just this time.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

In today saftey conscious environment, many of you may shudder at this technique. The guard on your jointer is removable. It is made that way because many people use the jointer to form rabbits down the length of a board. Joint the 6" your machine will reach. One inch will hang over the edge.
Grab a hand plane and take the leftover portion down even or below the jointed surface. The board will now be safe to rip. The whole process will take less time than it took me to type this. Put your jointer fence back.
fmr

[johnny means]

rip em in half with a hand saw.

[Simon Dupay]

Just rip it on the table saw, if your careful theres little risk of any kickback I've cut a lot of rough lumber and never once had a kickback.

[mreza Salav]

One other thing you could do is:
take a plywood or anyother base and screw your board in a couple of places secure to it. then rip it on the table saw with the base riding on the table.