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Rich Johnson
03-17-2010, 12:54 PM
Basic question on the drywall in relationship to the concrete floor. The floor has a 2x4 around the bottom on the stud walls. I don’t want to bring the drywall all the way to the floor but leave an inch or so up incase water/condensation comes off the concrete. In addition maybe I would want to use water to clean the floor at some time.

Are there any suggestions on what to use to maintain the drywall or keep it from getting wet? Was contemplating putting a plastic surface on it about a foot high but maybe there is a product out there….

russell lusthaus
03-17-2010, 1:00 PM
In my garage, I nailed a PT 2x4 to the PT sill 2x4 of the wall framing. I sheetrocked down to the PT 2X4 which acts like a base board molding of sorts. I used 5/8 sheetrock, so the 2X4 stick out from the face of the wall about an inch. Not a problem for me, but if you want cabinets on the floor against that wall, you would have to notch them (PIA).

David G Baker
03-17-2010, 1:05 PM
Rich,
Research using plastic decking around the base of you walls. It is water proof and will take a lot of abuse, still look good and comes in several colors.

Tim Cleary
03-17-2010, 5:51 PM
Are you ever going to finish the floor or will it always be a slab?

If you are planning to leave as is, +1 on previous suggestions. If you are interested in dryproofing and warming it up a bit, I suggest a dimpled HDPE product like Delta-FL, then OSB on top. The dimpled HDPE can be sealed to the base plates to prevent water infiltration - basically a hard vapor barrier but one that leaves the water someplace to go (between the dimples, to dissipate over time)

I have no $ interest here, just worked well for me.

Jason Roehl
03-17-2010, 5:54 PM
Vinyl cove molding? It's glue-on, but it's what's often used in commercial buildings, hospitals, etc. Many different colors and grades to choose from. The good, thick stuff comes in 4' lengths. You can even get a spreader nozzle that slips over the end of a tube of cove adhesive (standard caulk tube size), which is a really slick tool--I have one and have used it. Someone saw me using it once, and remarked, "Hey! That's cheating!" Just make sure you clean it out when you're done with it, so I recommend a water-clean-up adhesive.

Michael Heffernan
03-17-2010, 10:41 PM
You can end the drywall about 3" from the floor, cap the bottom with vinyl J-channel (available at home centers) and fill the space below with 3" strips of 1/2" pressure treated plywood or regular ply, if you seal it. That way you can wash the slab and never get the drywall wet.
If you feel it is necessary, you can add blocking between the studs at the 3" height to screw the bottom of the drywall between the studs, but if you are 16" O.C. you shouldn't have a problem.

Steve Orbine
03-18-2010, 9:34 AM
If you want a more traditional look, Azek sells plastic 1x4, 1x6 etc. You can machine it like wood, or simply use a regular wood base cap with a 1x6 (3/4 x 5 1/2) plastic baseboard.

Allen Schmid
03-18-2010, 1:59 PM
I have finished plenty of drywall and like some of the ideas posted here for a shop or garage floor. One of the best is David's suggestion of using the plastic decking as a trim piece and Michael's, too. I would cut the rock an inch short of the floor and just lay the plastic decking or any treated board on the floor and against the rock. If you are painting then paint over the treated lumber at the same time, it will all blend in.
Allen

David Prince
03-18-2010, 3:04 PM
I have a row of block around the perimeter of my garage so I don't have your issue. I personally don't like sheetrock in a garage because of possible damage from bumping something into it.

But, if want sheetrock you could cut 1/2 treated plywood into 12 inch strips and put this around the perimeter and then put 1/2 sheetrock above it. It will leave a flush wall. Give the PT a year and paint it if you want. Or, put sheetrock to the bottom, cut 12 or 16 inch pieces of fiberglass board and put this on the bottom around the perimeter and seal with silicone.

Rich Johnson
03-19-2010, 10:32 PM
Well it will always be a slab.....the foundation hmmm maybe 5 inch thick concreet on all sides protrudes more on one side than the other three. I can see why a builder did this.....less work and when they poured the garage floor it settled flat. Leaving there wing it foundation height OK for the studs but made for a sloppy garage foundation.

I like the idea of 4 foot rubber moldings to surround the base. Cheep and fits my situation...

Thanks for all who commented.

Jerome Stanek
03-20-2010, 7:39 AM
you could also use geen board like they use in a shower stall.

Jack Wilson
03-20-2010, 8:04 AM
you could also use geen board like they use in a shower stall.
Don't be fooled, green board costs a little more for the green ink in the paper, other than that it wicks moisture just like white drywall. Sure, if you look at the internal composition it appears to have a different recipe, but again, it soaks up moisture and crumbles just as easily.

Aaron Wingert
03-23-2010, 12:02 PM
Agree with Jack, the green board is a bit less susceptible to mold but is not in any way moisture resistant. Code now goes as far as prohibiting its use behind tile in wet areas of bathrooms, etc. I really like the idea of holding the rock up a few inches and installing a piece of treated material beneath.