Advice on logs going to the sawmill

[Scott Behrens]

Hey guys, new guy here. I've managed to get some Oak to haul to the sawmill tomorrow. Current plans just involve some barrister bookcases, couple desks, and odds and end furniture. I was curious what you guys would advice on how to have the logs cut up. Should I just get everything an inch thick, or should I get some 1 1/4, and or 2? I have a 6 inch jointer and plan to get a 12" planer. Should I only get the boards 6 inches wide or 8 or what? Hopefully someone has already been in these shoes and can tell me what mistakes they made. Two logs are 7 1/2 feet long and 26 and 28 inches on the small end. I've got another couple that are pretty good size and 3 more that are like 12" or a bit more in diameter.

If someone tells me how to show the two pics I uploaded I'll add them.

Thanks for the help

[Todd Burch]

Scott, looks like a lot work in that trailer!!! (so far, and more to come!)

If you like the look of quartersawn wood, get it quartersawn. If you have a 6" jointer, there's no point to cut anything wider.

I wouldn't waste my time with flatsawn - it's too cheap, and you are putting too much sweat equity into it to yield the cheapest, most readily available cut of wood.

As for the different thicknesses, just realize that 2" thick oak make take 4 years to dry enough to be able to use for a project (depending on your drying conditions). Plus, air drying it, you'll get a lot of degrade with oak. Been there, done that.

Bugs like sapwood undr bark. Get rid of all your bark when sawing. Also, don't try to get too close to the pith (center) - save that for 4X4s.

Todd

[Dan Mages]

You said you are planning on getting a 12" joiner? Cut them at 12" then. You can always rip then down later.

Dan

[Tom LaRussa]

Hey guys, new guy here. I've managed to get some Oak to haul to the sawmill tomorrow. Current plans just involve some barrister bookcases, couple desks, and odds and end furniture. I was curious what you guys would advice on how to have the logs cut up. Should I just get everything an inch thick, or should I get some 1 1/4, and or 2? I have a 6 inch jointer and plan to get a 12" planer. Should I only get the boards 6 inches wide or 8 or what? Hopefully someone has already been in these shoes and can tell me what mistakes they made. Two logs are 7 1/2 feet long and 26 and 28 inches on the small end. I've got another couple that are pretty good size and 3 more that are like 12" or a bit more in diameter.

Hi Scott,

Welcome to the Creek!

I've never done the sawyer thing, but I've dreamed about it enough to give advice -- actually, I can give advice on just about anything, as I rarely let complete lack of knowledge stop me from opening my mouth. :eek:

Anyhow...

Here's what I would do:

[1] All Logs: Cut one or two big flitches -- edge to edge cuts -- from the center of each log; two inches thick from the smaller logs and three inches thick from the fatter ones. With careful seasoning, these slices may one day become spectacular tables, doors, or the like.

[2] For the log with the "Y" in it. Flitch cut that entire puppy looking for pretty patterns. Go for 2-3 inches thick so it can be split later for book matching.

[3] Quartersaw the rest.

JMHO, YMMV, Etc.

Tom

[Scott Banbury]

Scott,

I custom saw for woodworkers in the Memphis/Midsouth area. :cool:

If you brought me the logs on your trailer, I would straight off offer to firewood the ones in the front. Oak does not typically produce good crotch figure with the exception of roots or spiraling multiple-branches. Even then, Oak crotch will split/check and require extra sealing or epoxy later.

The three logs lying lengthwise all appear to be excellent candidates for quartersawing.

What kind of mill are you taking it to?

If you were my customer, I'd ask you for a particular cutlist or advise you to go ahead and cut it all the same--4 or 5/4. This will make stacking and drying it much easier and since you'd have consecutive board matches, you could always seamlessly laminate pieces to make up thicker components. ;)

You will suffer far less loss in drying thinner material.

[Scott Behrens]

Thanks for the help guys. Scott - I didn't know if the small logs on the front would be useful or not so I just grabbed them so I can ask the sawyer. Just the one piece is a crotch log, but the three it's laying on are only about 12-14 inches in diameter. The guy I called has a circular mill. There are also band saw mills in the area, but I don't know what's better. I read that band saws waste less, but the guy I talked to claims he wastes less than a band saw and gets a better cut. I had planned to get everything cut 4/4 and quite possibly quarter sawn. Maybe quarter saw the two big ones and do the other normal? I haven't built all that much furniture in my life but figure this'll give me some material for a good start. I plan to air dry it all.

[Jim Becker]

You said you are planning on getting a 12" joiner? Cut them at 12" then. You can always rip then down later.
I agree with the rip them later part, but not necessarily because of the jointer or planer size. You shouldn't rip them down until you know what you need to get out of the lumber. That way you can plan for color and grain matching for a particular project as well as cut out defects and other things that will make jointing flat harder to do. If they are 12" or less, you can skim plane them after they are dry to check for color and figure and then make the decisions necessary to get the best yield and results. The wider boards are easier to stack and sticker for drying, too.

[Scott Banbury]

Scott,

4/4 (1 1/16") will dry the best with the least defect. If you stack it properly and rough cut your parts before jointing and planing, you'll end up with 7/8" material.

The circle mill operator is being a little disingenuous. I run a Woodmizer and know many circle mill operators and can say from experience that a properly tuned and operated bandmill will produce a greater yield of smoother, flatter lumber. A bandmill is also better suited to getting best results when quartersawing.

What is the diameter of the three large logs?

[Thomas Prondzinski]

Scott
I too would quarter saw it as wide as you can,then you can cut out the figure you want,because sometimes you will not get ray flecks all the way across the board. cut it so you will yield 7/8 thickness after planeing,as most mission furniture is 7/8.


Hope this helps Tom