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View Full Version : The problem with those lovely infill planes….



Bob Smalser
11-06-2004, 2:08 PM
….is that I can’t figure out how to repair them without destroying them.

I always wince a bit when I read folks extolling the virtues of infills over common Stanley designs. Not that I don’t think they are great planes, it’s just that when they get old, repair becomes problematic.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/72297543.jpg

Over the past year or so, I’ve been rehabbing and handing down old family tools to my oldest son interested in luthier work, replacing them with inexpensive old auction Stanleys like the #93 above that was easy to put back into order. Cheaper than him buying many new tools, and I can’t think of a better start than using and maintaining your Great Grandfather’s tools with some occasional guidance from your Dad.

The H. Burke infill shoulder plane is one we’ve had for probably 80 years or more, as I’ve had and used it hard it for at least 40. It was my only shoulder plane until I bought that Stanley a year or so ago. Still works OK, in spite of the wear…but not for another generation, that’s for sure.


http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/72297558.jpg

I can replace the iron easily enough….the issue is the mouth wear I’d like to repair before handing it down.

I can’t build it up with nickel-steel welding rod without dismantling it….and there isn’t enough meat left in those dovetails and sides to reassemble, peen and dress it without ruining it.

JB Weld isn’t an option. Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

Steve Wargo
11-06-2004, 3:38 PM
is it really in need of repair? Does it affect the performance? I'm only asking, because I have an old Stanley 92 that has a chipped mouth, in the front, that I purchased from a sale for about $3. I figured I'd just use it for rough work and then clean everything up with my Clifton 420. But to be honest, the chip doesn't seem to affect the cut at all. It is much larger than the one you have and all I did was take a small file and knock the point off so shavings didn't get cought up in it. It's just a suggestion. I do take fairly light cuts though with it. Is your chip on the front of the mouth or on the back. Perhaps that would make a difference. Just trying to help save a nice old tool.:)

Bob Smalser
11-06-2004, 3:58 PM
Affects its performance slightly now, as the mouth is a tad wider than the original....but it will get much worse with another decade or so of full use and I don't want to hand down something that needs babying. I'd rather fix it now on some rainy day than wait til it really needs it in the middle of one of my son's projects. The edges of that mouth are quite fragile.

A metalworker on another forum just suggested soldering on a brass plate to resole. That might be possible without dismantling using heat stop paste, wet rags and 275-degree jeweler's solder....but that's not my preference, either.

I wanna check around with the infill builder crowd to see if there is some dismantling trick I am unaware of.

Scott Quesnelle
11-07-2004, 4:25 PM
What about shimming the frog?
You could use some brass shim behind the iron. They could be added permanently with jb weld in small dimples in the infill.

Just another approach to consider.

I guess in this case, it comes down to maintaining the tool in its original form, and accepting the flaws, and that eventually it will have to be retired. Or repair it and make modifications to the tool which will change it forever.

If its a sentimental piece, or has alot of family history. I wouldn't want to modify it, but that is a personal decision.

Scott