Festool domino question

[abram godshall]

I bought the bit and the 4 by 20mm dominos. Today I tried using them for the first time only to find out the pins to space the holes apart (both the 2 on the Domino machine) and the ones on the spacing fence do not fit the smaller slots made with this new bit. My question is how do I space subseqent slots so things match up? Do I have to buy a separate guide for this size domino slot or can I do it some other way?

Thank you in advance,
Abram Godshall

[Michael Wildt]

If you do not get an answer here try; http://festoolownersgroup.com/

[Chris Rosenberger]

I put the edges that are to be joined together & draw lines across both pieces. I then use the line to place to dominos. I have never used the pins to space them.

[Scott T Smith]

I put the edges that are to be joined together & draw lines across both pieces. I then use the line to place to dominos. I have never used the pins to space them.


Same here.

[Mark Carlson]

same as above.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Same here.

[Frank Martin]

Same here too.

I think you are worrying about something that is not really an issue. Is there a specific application you are interested in that cannot be done just by marking up?

[Wade Lippman]

Same here.

I hope you guys aren't saying you never use the pins. They are great!
Occasionally I have to mark, but always use pins when I can.

[Glen Blanchard]

I have never used the pins actually. Some well placed marks is all I do.

[Rob Wright]

I usually mark both pieces, cut one of the pieces on the "tight" and the other/opposite piece on the "medium" setting.

[Chris Bruno]

It seems that would work OK with 2 boards that are edge-edge... but what about boards that are edge-face?.. Particularly for joints that are at the end of the face..

Maybe I'm missing something stupid, but I'd really like to know how you guys do shelves that way. I must admit that I haven't been super impressed with my ability to locate the shelf-type joints exactly where I want them with the domino...

-Chris

[Erik Christensen]

i got the cross stop accessory so I can space pins however i want - one great place to use that is for cabinet case assembly. I can cut a half dozen slots in perfectly matching pieces is less time than it takes to mark them.

totally cool way to use that tool - only pain is a 2nd pass on elongated slots - cut them narrow first to get the spacing to match the mating panel, then a 2nd pass registering on the 1st pass holes to cut the elongated slot. still a ton faster than marking especially having to wrestle to large 3/4" plywood panels and hold them square to accurately do both edges.

next time you have some case work to assemble try the domino with cross stop pins for layout - you'll be amazed how fast it can go

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

I never use those pins.....like most others here I draw a pencil line across both pieces for a registry point.
Erik, I have the cross stop but never had much luck for the reason one side of mortises are like you say, elongated, or wider than its mating side. I never could be bothered doing my guzzintas to account for the offset. Are you saying you cut them in 2 passes? Can you elaborate on that some more?

Chris, I feel your pain but it's really very easy to use dominoes for shelving in the middle or any where on a work piece. If I have time I will try to snap some pictures for a walk through pictorial for you. Or you could swing by my place this weekend and I'll show you hands on. (you could bring that nice slab of maple you're selling, I'll gladly pay you for it.)

[Erik Christensen]

Jim:

I am sure there are other clever ways to use the cross stops when one set of slots are elongated - but this is one that works for me. Lets say I am doing a half dozen domino's on a cabinet case -joining one side to the back. I typically have the sides overlap the back so the back panel has slots in the edge and the side slots in the panel face. I normally have the edge slot be elongated - thinking it has more tenon length and glue surface to make up for the weakness of the longer slot - who knows if that is important - it is how I normally do it.

So I need to cut elongated slots in the edge of the back panel using the same cross stop pin settings as I used to cut regular slots in the face of the matching side panel. So back panel face down for height registration and assume I am cutting the left side panel registered from the bottom. So I start a set of slots from the LEFT using the normal cutting width - do a complete run of slots. Set the domino to cut an elongated slot. Start on the far RIGHT slot with the cross-stop registered in the pin to the LEFT - elongate the previous regular slot, slide to the next slot to the left always registering on the slot to the left till you get back to the 1st one which registers to the side of the panel.

fast, easy, accurate and much quicker than trying muscle 2 sheets of 3/4 ply by yourself to make cut marks - at least for me it is

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

Erik, I appreciate you taking the time to respond to my question but you had me lost at "I am sure...". I'm more of a visuals guy. You should think about putting together a tutorial with pictures on this. I'm sure others would appreciate it too.

[Chris Bruno]

Chris, I feel your pain but it's really very easy to use dominoes for shelving in the middle or any where on a work piece. If I have time I will try to snap some pictures for a walk through pictorial for you. Or you could swing by my place this weekend and I'll show you hands on. (you could bring that nice slab of maple you're selling, I'll gladly pay you for it.)

I might take you up on that!

As for what Erik is saying, I believe the process would be like this:

Piece A: Register from the left side using pin. Make mortise at narrow setting. Working left to right, using cross stop, continue making evenly spaced mortised with all narrow settings.

Piece B: Register from right side (because in my scenario Piece B's right side aligns to Piece A's left side) using pin. Make mortise at narrow setting. Working from right to left, using cross stop, continue making evenly spaced mortises at narrow setting. THEN, using other side of cross stop, working from left to right.. Register off the narrow mortises and make new mortises at the wider setting.

It's actually very clever. Though I find the domino likes to jump around more if I try to make a 'second pass' mortise..

Jim, I'll hit you up via PM when my weekend responsibilities firm up. Thanks for the offer!

-Chris

[Wade Lippman]

totally cool way to use that tool - only pain is a 2nd pass on elongated slots - cut them narrow first to get the spacing to match the mating panel, then a 2nd pass registering on the 1st pass holes to cut the elongated slot.

What I usually do is cut them all narrow on one piece; 3 from one side and 2 from the other. On the other piece I cut the first narrow, the second wide, and the third extra wide. Then I cut one from the other side wide and the second extra wide. If 5 is enough I am fine. If not, then I have to mark the middle ones.

Its not as complicated as it probably sounds

[Bill Orbine]

The pins I can do without! At least most of the time. These pins interfere more than they help. Hmmm! Maybe I should remove'em.