chainsaw recommendations

[Sean Hughto]

I got some large chunks of a front yard tree of unknown type cut down in my neighborhood. It smells like a cherry somewhat and is very pretty. When cut, it looks light like pine for a minute or so and then quickly turns to a lovely shade of amber on the newly exposed wood. Anyway, chainsawing blanks was a new experience for me this weekend. I only have a smallish echo saw that I've always just used for small yard work. It took forever to cut the bowl blanks (around 12 to 13 diameter and 5 to 6 inches thick) , so I'm thinking I need a better bigger saw for all the BIG blanks I hope to gloat about going forward. I want something reliable, safe, etc. What brand, size, chain set up (I've heard there are rip chains for example) does anyone recommend? I'd ratehr buy a good one and cry once than have frustration with loose chains, hard starts, etc. everytime I use it, so cheap is not high on the list. Thanks!

[Steve Schlumpf]

First thing I recommend is a metal detector!

I spent a lot of time researching a replacement for my 14" McCullough chainsaw and finally decided on the Husky 357 XP. It is a lot of saw but I did not want something that was underpowered or something that was going to be difficult to start or maintain. This saw fit my needs but your needs may be different.

Basically - stick with the main brands of Stihl and Husky and you'll be fine.

[John Tomasello jr]

I love my husky's 340 & 281

[Scott Hackler]

Last year I bought a Husky 353 and its a breast of a saw. Just make sure that if you are interested in a Huskavarna you dont end up with thier light duty line. They make an entry level, middle and the XP line. The only real difference (from the dealer's mouth) in the middle and the XP lines are faster RPM and price. I was going to buy the XP version of mine but the dealer talked me out of spending an additional $100.

Having used my 353 enough to wear off the words on the bar, I can tell you that it is plenty of saw and fairly decent on weight.

[Ken Hill]

Stihl 880 :eek:


If you dont intend on using all that often, a Poulan will be probably the cheapest. 18 inch bar will do alot of work, just think ahead on the size of logs you will work with and add a few inches for good measure.

If you want a beefier saw, as suggested the Husky or Stihl will be the ticket. I use a Stihl MS290 with a 18 inch bar several times a week, well worth the $$$

Just remember to run it out of fuel if you are going to let it sit and dont mix up much fuel. The crap they have in our fuel at the pumps is JUNK when it comes to shelf life.

[Steve Kubien]

My Stihl MS390 is a lot of saw. My ONLY regret is that I didn't get a bigger bar (I've got an 18" but wish I had 20" or 24").

As has been said, stick with Stihl or Husky and you will be hard pressed to go wrong.

[Richard Madison]

The usual list is Huskvarna(sp?), Stihl, Jonssered, and Echo, maybe one or two more. Check the weights of the saws you consider. I bought a smaller saw than I really wanted (Echo) knowing that my back would not be up to using the next heavier model. In retrospect my decision was correct and the 18" bar does everything (almost) that I need it to.

[Curt Fuller]

Basically - stick with the main brands of Stihl and Husky and you'll be fine.

And get all the saw you can afford!

[alex carey]

I have a Stihl ms310 with a 24" bar, its a great chainsaw and will serve you well. If you can spare the money this guy will be with you forever.

[Donald Wilkins]

Sean,

I had the fortune of having a Dad that worked in the logging industry for 30 years. He started out as a short wood logger and eventually became a producer. He has had many saws through the years and they have been either a Husky or a Stihl. The newer Huskys sold at the big box stores are not a good as they used to be, but are better than most. Stihl has my vote. I have a 028AV with a 20" bar and it cuts blanks very well when the blade is sharp. However Stihl will cost you more, but should outlast the other brands. My .02

Good luck with the wood.

-Donald-

[bob svoboda]

I love my Stihl Farm Boss with a 24" bar. I use a skip tooth chain that rips just fine-you just have to clear the shavings once in a while. Rip chains are expensive and don't work that well for cross cutting.

[Jeff Nicol]

I see a lot of guys saying that they need a bigger bar, I am not sure why. If you are out cutting down 30"+ trees I can see a bigger saw for power and the bigger bar is a plus. That being said all I used for 20 years was a Stihl 025 or 026 to cut everything. With a 16" bar I cut down trees that were over 30" at the base (16x2=32") I never had any wants except for more power to cut faster. I did finally get a MS 290 with an 18" bar and if cutting over 36" dia is not big enough for most every turner out there then I still am confused. How many out there turn over 20" blanks? Not many at all, why does a guy who is just getting into turning who only owns a 16" swing lathe need a $500 24" bar saw? During the winter in the shop I use a 16" electric saw that will cut everything I need it to.

So it comes down to what you plan to turn, if you want a heavy saw, or you just want to have a bigger saw than your buddy. The first a formost thing is to know how to use the saw to get the most out of it. Being able to sharpen a chain correctly is a big part of the equation. Then do not force the saw into the wood let it do the cutting and they work very well.

All that being said buy a saw you can afford and keep the chain sharp and don't cut sand and gravel with it. Stihl is my favorite and they have some with an easy start system that is just awesome, the best chain adjustment system and nice oil and gas mix caps. My buddy has a Husky and has had to rebuild it 3 times over 10 years. I tried to get him to get a Stihl, but he is stubborn. The next choice for me would be a Jonsered brand, as they are tough as nails and great quality.

Lots to take in but buy the best saw that you think you will ever use.

Jeff

[Roger Chandler]

I would encourage you to stay away from Poulan. I have a Poulan Pro model, and the manual plainly states, not for heavy or everyday use. They are homeowner models only for occasional use,

I also own a Husqvanra 359, which gets into the pro lineup of saws. It is a great saw. Lots of torque, power and have had not one problem of any sort in the 8 years or so that I've used it. I have cut cords upon cords of oak and other wood, and it has run flawlessly.

You cannot go wrong with either a Husqvarna or a Stihl as long as you stay in the upper pro line each one carries. Service and parts availability is a very important issue. Buy from a dealer, not a box store.

[Sean Hughto]

Thank you to everyone. As usual, terrific thoughtful advice from the crew of the USS Vortex! I'm off to see my local saw dealer this weekend.

[Ken Hill]

Get a price, then post it. If you are in Montgomery County then I would suspect they will take an arm and a leg:( It might worth a small drive to save a few hundred!

[Roger Bullock]

I've had a Stihl Farm Boss for about 15 years without any major trouble. Lots of power but power will not do you any good if you don't have a sharp chain to back it up. Regardless of which chainsaw you decide on, I recommend buying at least 1 extra chain and learn how to sharpen them. Chains can dull quickly causing you and the saw to work harder to get the job done. IMHO a dull tool is more dangerous than a sharp one anyday.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Stihl MS 360 20" bar.

[Jon Lanier]

I see a lot of guys saying that they need a bigger bar, I am not sure why.
Jeff
I have a 20" bar on my Stihl. Not because I cut down big tree's... I hardly ever cut down a tree. but it's for ripping the pith out.

-Jon

[Scott Lux]

I'm looking into an electric chainsaw for the same purpose. Any recommendations?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have a 20" Stihl Farm boss. Good saw, not a pro model, but I really like it. Does everything I need. +1 on learning how to sharpen a blade. The best saw out there with a dull chain sucks as bad as a cheap saw. It's not hard to learn how to sharpen. It can be too big, I also have a 14" small top handle Crapsman, for trimming up blanks.

Stihl also makes a VERY nice electric.

[Rob Lindquist]

I've been told by my chainsaw shop guy that Husqvarna and Jonsered are the same thing, made in the same plant different colors, like Chevrolet-GMC etc. He said he can use all the parts interchangably between the two except for the outer plastic parts which will interchange but would be the wrong color. I'm sure a quick google will confirm that one way or the other.

I have a Husky Rancher 44, about 26 years old that is perfect to this day. It has cut many cords of wood, we used to order one or two truckloads, 10-12 full cords each truck every year or so. If it died tomorrow I would probably mount it to a plaque and hang it above the fireplace!

I would go with Stihl based on the saw shops reccomendation seeing the repairs on both. They love old Husky's or new Stihls.

I like long bars so I don't have to bend over as much limbing trees, but that's tree/firewood cutting, not cutting blanks for turning. I would think an electric would be great, you can NOT snub out one of those, and no fumes, gas etc, great for in the shop.

[scott schmidt grasshopper]

being a woodcutter, turner and xmas tree grower, I run saws alot, I prefer the stihl for the following. they have good lifespans like the husky/jons but seem to have less decibels. for size I would go with something around a 3.4 cu. inch ( 034) but I would get a longer bar ( 24 inch ) , I have a bad back and just don't like to bend over as much so limbing or cutting trees on the ground is not fun if you bend over all day also when splitting pithes it gives you a longer reach . what you have to remember is not to work the saw too hard by not using all the bar at the same time and once you "learn" your saw you can tell when its being worked hard.
of course sharp tools you already know about. Learn to sharpen the chain or carry several with you. I would NOT buy a rip chain as they are way overpriced but just an odd sharpen angle. If you are new to chainsawing then buy antikickback chain and DO watch the bar tip. bailey's.com has a good guide to chain and use. buy great chainsaw mix oil either echo or stihl brand and it will extend the life of the saw alot, I mix my gas a little rich on oil and have yet to burn one out,( 36:1 with 50:1 oil)I have to clean the plug a couple times a year but my engine is never without oil. ps don't run the saw out of gas if you can help it when it starts to cut out add gas cause if you run it dry you lose your motor lubrication. ps the new gas problem of ethanol addatives can be solved ask around about the "old gas" sold to atv's and lawnmowers costs alittle more but doesn't "wipe' the oil like ethanol. good luck

[Kirk Miller]

I have the Husky rancher and love it. I wish I had bought one years ago

[Matt Ranum]

Scott- Nice to see another xmas tree grower here!

As for saws, most any of the bigger names are going to be fine. If all you are going to do is cut occasional blanks and limb up some trees I surely wouldn't spend a lot on a saw. I've run Husky's, Stihl, Jonsered, and the last saw I bought was an Echo. Never had one and heard mixed reviews in the past. They did an overhaul of their overall design and looked pretty good. Besides, the last I knew it was the last saw to be assembled here in the states, with a Japanese motor though. I picked up a CS-400 on ebay, new in the box, delivered for $200. Took a chance not going through a dealer but I gotta say its a heck of a saw. My only complaint is its set too lean from the factory for my tastes, but the most fuel efficient saw I ever run though. Shes a screamer too like Huskys, 13,000 RPM.

The biggest problem more often than not with saws not performing is because of the chain. As previously mentioned Bailey's is a great place for very good quality with very good prices. Basically any "Pro" chain will completely change the performance of just about any saw out there. And they are reasonable to buy.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Loook at the Dolmar/Makita saws. The 5100 has a killer power to weight ratio. So does the Stihl 361, but Stihl are typically more pricey since they are strict about their retail prices. The Solo 656 has awesome P:W but is not cheap and you may not find a local dealer. But they can certainly still work on it, and treat it right and it won't need anything for a long time.

I have a Husq 359 and it is a great saw; the only difference between that and the 357 XP is a full circle crank and the higher revs, which can be a disadvantage. You get a little more power, but it is all top-end. The 353 is great if you can find one.

Efco, Solo, Shindaiwa are all very good and you can sometimes find them for much less since they aren't known, especially if you find a used one. Home Depot rents Makitas and they sell their rentals after a low amount of hours. If I could justify it I'd buy one of them (but don't need another saw).

Baileys (as has been pointed out) is a great place for saws and supplies, including some of the above names. Husqvarna and Jonsered are indeed virtually the same saw; Husq owns Jonsey.

I have to disagree with the longer bar. As Jeff Nicol pointed out, you don't need a long bar for what you will be doing, and it simply adds more weight, reduces control, and makes it more likely to get the tip in the dirt and rock out your teeth. As has been stated, learn to sharpen. Any saw cuts like poop with a dull chain. I use a 20" bar for almost everything (and a 16 for limbing).

80 foot tree, 20" bar.

[Joe Adams]

I've had a Stihl 026 for over 10 years and it starts every time even after sitting idle for months. Enough said!

[Steve Vaughan]

Thanks for all this discussion. I'm now having to look at a replacement for my old, old Homelite 350. It's been one heck of a saw but it's just about worn out.

I've been looking at the stihl and husky's but does anyone see good results with the echo? I don't have any experience with those, but I read an article somewhere that indicated that even the saws in the big box stores were a step above the typical "consumer" grade.

[Richard Madison]

Steve, I bought an Echo CS440 with 18" bar about 3 years ago. The primary reason I chose Echo was that my 26 year old Echo gas trimmer still runs like new. The saw has had only typical homeowner use plus cutting some logs for turning (of course) and has performed well. I had one problem in which the saw would start, run momentarily, and die, and I finally traced this to a plugged fuel tank vent filter. With the vent plugged it was unable to draw fuel from the tank. I also compared weights of various saws and models and decided (correctly) that a heavier saw would be too much for my back. I use Stabil in all small engine fuel all year, and have done so for many years. The saw starts easily for each use after several months of languishing on a shelf.

[Roger Chandler]

One poster mentioned the importance of a properly sharpened chain. I don't usually recommend any tools from Harbor Freight, but they have an electric chainsaw sharpener that is a real trick, and does an excellent job, in the $30.00 price range.

I have bought 3 already, one I use, one in a box as a spare, and one for a friend of mine who uses a chainsaw all the time. This works the same way an Oregon 511A sharpener works which runs over $500.00 in price. Get some extra grinding wheels when you purchase. so you will have extras,[they cost about $6.00 each] I have yet to wear one out, but I want to be ready when it does need changing.

I have probably sharpened 30 or more chains on this thing, and the teeth are evenly ground on both sides, and if you get a nick it can be ground out like new. You do need to file away your depth guage in front of the tooth when you have done about 3 sharpening on a chain.

Probably the best $29.00 I have ever spent on anything. :) My friend, who used to work for a logging company some years ago, really likes his as well, and wished he had had it all those years he used a file to sharpen his chains. It is a real time saver, but best of all, it has the precision built in so that the angle and the grind are very precise. This one is definitely a keeper!

[Noah Bledstein]

I have two Makitas, an older 54cc model and an electric. Both have proved bulletproof. When I researched this a number of years ago Dolmar was to Germans what Stihl is in the U.S. The only difference between a Dolmar and a Makita is the color of the plastic.

[Jake Helmboldt]

I have two Makitas, an older 54cc model and an electric. Both have proved bulletproof. When I researched this a number of years ago Dolmar was to Germans what Stihl is in the U.S. The only difference between a Dolmar and a Makita is the color of the plastic.

Yup! Dolmar (German) invented the gas chainsaw. Makita bought them a few years ago so if you like red, get a Dolmar. If you like blue, get a Makita. Same exact saws.

As for sharpening, I say forget the electrics; they need electricty (sometimes not where you are cutting), can result in uneven teeth which makes for a poor cut, and often take off more tooth then needed. Also, remember you need a flat file and guide for taking down the rakers which limit the depth of cut and can result in poor cutting or grabby and dangerous cutting.

The best bet is the Husqvarna roller jig. Teaches you to freehand, very compact, cheap, built in raker gauge, and you can sharpen a chain in a couple minutes. Super simple and super sharp.

[Jonathan Harvey]

I've got an old stihl 034 with a 20" bar that I inherited from my FIL and it runs like a dream. When I'm cutting up smaller limbs a run a small MS170, It's light and very easy to control.

[Mac Carlton]

Thank you to everyone. As usual, terrific thoughtful advice from the crew of the USS Vortex! I'm off to see my local saw dealer this weekend.

I think you just answered your ? Stay away from big box stores when buying a saw.
Just a thought, I purchased a Makita with a 20 inch bar from an equip. rental store ,they were retiring it .They showed me all the rental records. It was rented 17 times, they also sent it home with a new chain. This saw listed over $600 I bought it for $175 . Its a hoss, more saw than I will ever need.
PS I have always been a Makita fan as I have a weedeater with blade attachment that is over 25 years old and is used very hard when used.

[Tom Giacomo]

Husky 367 with 28" bar, I only wanted to buy once.