New Table Saw care question

[Joe Quaid]

Have a new cabinet saw and decided on T-9 plus renaissance wax for the cast iron and fence and stuff but not much out there on how to keep things like the trunnions and gears?

[Lee Schierer]

Go to your local Bike shop and get a dry spray chain lube with either wax or Teflon. Spray graphite will also work but can be messy. You can also use paste wax right from the can on the gears and acme threads. Grease will accumulate dust. Reapply whenever you think of it or when the table is feeling a bit tight. I try to lube up my saw and wax all my table surfaces right before every new major project. It makes the project go quicker and keeps teh tools in good shape.

[Jim O'Dell]

We've been talking about this very thing the last few days. See this thread for more information: http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=134138 I just did mine this weekend. I think I got some on the belts as the saw has no power now. Bogs down on 3/4" ply with a freshly cleaned and waxed blade. :( So if you use a spay type lubricant, I'd recommend covering the belts and pulleys to make sure you keep it off of them! Jim.

[glenn bradley]

Jim's got you covered on the gear treatment. I just paste wax my tops and have never had a rust problem. I do not live in a humid area though.

[John Thompson]

I use T-9 and Renaissance also Joe.. and have for years. I do live in a high humidity area. I would use the bike lubricant mentioned as the graphite can get nasty in the machine and on your hands.

Good luck...

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

I use Topcoat on my Unisaw, and LPS1 on the inside. I've had it about 15 years and it's rust free.

[johnny means]

I never touch my trunnions and gears, they really shouldn't need maintenance for a long time. Using the wrong thing on them can actually destroy the factory grease.

[Joe Shinall]

I never touch my trunnions and gears, they really shouldn't need maintenance for a long time. Using the wrong thing on them can actually destroy the factory grease.

This I have actually heard from a guy in my area that refurbishes old metal and woodworking machines. He's been doing it for over 40 years. You can destroy the factory grease as well as cause a reaction of either thinning or thickening the grease, and in some cases turn it rubbery.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I use T-9 and Renaissance also Joe.. and have for years. I do live in a high humidity area..


John - question from just down the road: Renaissance wax is new to me. Is this your standard for furniture? Comments v Antiquax, Briwax 2000 , etc? On machine surfaces - I've just used plain-old Johnson's Paste wax.
??? Sounds like I'm missing something.

Always looking for the elusive "better way" - could you 'splain it to me please?

Thanks

[Steven J Corpstein]

Have a new cabinet saw and decided on T-9 plus renaissance wax for the cast iron and fence and stuff but not much out there on how to keep things like the trunnions and gears?

I use Butcher's Bowling Alley wax on the cast iron, their furniture wax on the gears (It's softer. I live in Iowa where humidity can climb rather high and never have any issues.

I agree with the comments on leaving the factory grease intact. The bearings are lubed at the factory and the grease has a long life cycle.

[John Thompson]

John - question from just down the road: Renaissance wax is new to me. Is this your standard for furniture? Comments v Antiquax, Briwax 2000 , etc? On machine surfaces - I've just used plain-old Johnson's Paste wax.
??? Sounds like I'm missing something.

Always looking for the elusive "better way" - could you 'splain it to me please?

Thanks

It's not standard for my furniture Kent. I use Liberon waxes on that which I prefer over others as I have tried about all of them. The Renaissance wax is extremely expensive so I use it on machines exclusively. Johnson's Paste wax will work as the others that don't contain silicone but... I have found that the Renaissance holds longer than the others I have tried. Why... I don't know. Maybe the crystalline in it but I cannot truly say?

A small can goes a long way with machines. You apply thinnly and start buffing it off as soon as you finish the application. Start taking if off where you started as that is long enough for it to haze. The stuff dries extremely quick so if you linger too long be prepared work a major work-out like letting pure carnuba wax dry on a car. I did that on a van once and it would have been easier to just trade it in than get it off. :)

Yes I have used Bri-wax and not my personal choice for furniture. Like I stated after many the Liberon is my choice for furniture and Renaissance for machines. I wax after every project which if about two months average but sometimes around two weeks as I use my TS daily since retirement 2 1/2 years ago. Sometimes sooner on the BS.. jointer and planer depending on just how heavily I use them on a given project.

When I rip and prep rough for friends for hire in thousand linear feet lots.. the machine surfaces see new wax about every 3 days as the stock will friction wear it off.