Modifying the toolrest...

[Steve Vaughan]

Another post on the NOVA toolrest prompted these questions. I've read where some have modified their toolrest by adding a piece of drill rod (I think that's what's been used), or if they've made them, they've topped the toolrest with some kind of hardened rod.

So, with that in mind, some questions: What are you putting the rod onto the toolrest with? And, where are you getting this drill rod or, if you're using something different, then what is it? Is it something that can be picked up at a local store or shop? Thanks!

[Matt Owen]

I get my drill rod from Fastenal.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=47766&ucst=t

I just use two-part epoxy to join the rod on the rest. However, I use a ball-nosed end-mill to cut a grove in the top of the rest that the rod sits in.

Matt

[Fred Perreault]

Matt,
Do you harden the rod at all, or use it as is from Fastenal ?

[Bill Bolen]

The drill rod I get from Fastenal also. I use it just as it came to me from them and have had no more trouble with dents ect. Attached with extra strength epoxy right to the tool rest edge,no groove cut...Bill..

[Steve Vaughan]

Thanks for the info there. I'm gonna check into the Fastenal for the drill rod. That's gonna be enough for the stock toolrest that came with the lathe, and the two other ones I made.

[Matt Owen]

Matt,
Do you harden the rod at all, or use it as is from Fastenal ?

I harden mine, but that's because I have the resources to do it. Tool steel that hasn't been hardened is usually a good bit harder than mild steel, so having the drill rod on top will still give you a better surface to glide the tool.

Matt

[Chris Stolicky]

I harden mine, but that's because I have the resources to do it. Tool steel that hasn't been hardened is usually a good bit harder than mild steel, so having the drill rod on top will still give you a better surface to glide the tool.

Matt

I have recently epoxied one of these drill rods to the top of my cast iron mini rest, as well as two smaller rests I made with angle iron for pen turning. Still in trial mode with these.

I was considering using some of the left over rod (1/4" & 5/16") to make round skews.

I know that its 'tool steel' and will hold an edge okay, but would hardening (tempering) make a noticeable difference?

If so, how would one do this? Lots of research has told me to heat it in an oven/grill/toaster oven at 300-350 degrees F, from anywhere between 10 mintes to an hour. I have also read that one way is to plan for 30 minutes per half inch of thickness.

How have people done this before before?

Thanks. Its not my intentions to hijack this thread - I think the topic is related.

[Matt Owen]

Chris,

If you want to use the drill rod as a tool, you will need to harden it. The edge simply won't last if it's soft. The 300-500 degrees you mention is for tempering the steel, which is the last part of the hardening process.

To heat treat the steel, you will have to heat the part until it is a bright orange color, which will be around 1600-1700 degrees, give or take a little. Then, you have to quench the steel in oil (assuming the drill rod you use is O1), making sure that the oil is properly agitated. I usually swirl the steel around in the oil when I do it. After the quenching and the steel is approximately 100-200 degrees, you have to temper the steel, which is where the 300-500 degree range enters in. For this, you can use a toaster oven, and leave it in for about an hour.

A word of warning when heat treating this thin of material. When the steel is reaching the orange color, it is very easy to bend it. Be very careful with this.

Also, O1 is really not a great steel for woodturning tools. M2, A2, and D2 will hold an edge much better than O1 will. That being said, O1 will work, but you will have to sharpen more frequently.

I hope all this helps.

Matt

[Chris Stolicky]

Thanks Matt.

One more question, so I am clear.

The O1 steel hasn't already been hardened by being quenched in oil? The "O1" simple means that it should be quenched in oil after you heat it up - to the point of no longer being magnetic (lamen's terms).

Then, you can temper it?


That is interesting about the the M2, A1, and D2. Hum...

[Matt Owen]

The O1 steel hasn't already been hardened by being quenched in oil? The "O1" simple means that it should be quenched in oil after you heat it up - to the point of no longer being magnetic (lamen's terms).

Then, you can temper it?


When you quench the steel, you harden it to a point that it is too brittle. There are also a lot of internal stresses induced by the quenching process. After it is quenched, you temper the steel to relieve the internal stresses and soften the steel a little bit to a usable state.

Matt

[Cathy Schaewe]

Could somebody post a picture of one of these modified toolrests?

[Rob Cunningham]

McMaster-Carr sells hardened shafts in many sizes.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hardened-shafts/=69tqiz