Cross Cutting on Table Saw Problem

[Dru Dron]

Hello All,

I've just noticed an odd little problem I seem to be having when cross cutting on my table saw. I was trying to fine tune the alignment of my mitre gauge (Incra 5000 converted to a 3000). I now think I've got the gauge squared up overall, but I'm noticing that my cuts on boards of any significant width, say 5-6 inches or wider have a slight concave curve to them on the workpiece to the left of the blade (probably less than 1/64th of an inch but pronounced enough that I can see it with my naked eye when I stand the board on end on my table saw table). I've attached (I hope I've done it correctly) a pdf file illustrating the problem/result I'm experiencing.

I'm wondering if this could mean I have the blade overtightened on the arbour causing the blade to be slightly bowed or flexed? Is this even possible? I've always tried not to overtighten my blades as I understand that the thread is oriented such that the blade/arbour nut will tend to tighten on its own while spinning in use. Any other ideas why/how my table saw could be cutting a curved crosscut? I don't think I've ever seen this happen before. At least I've never noticed it until today. By the way, the saw is a relatively new (9-10 months old, lightly used) Steel City 35905G 3hp granite top saw.

If anyone has any suggestions as to the cause of this I'd be most grateful to hear your ideas.

Thanks a lot!

Dru Dron
Ontario, Canada

[Tony Shea]

What about the offcut? Is that peice the exact opposite of the peice in question? And is the peice that you're keeping (the peice in question) the peice with the miter guage behind it? I'm assuming that it is.


Have you lined up your miter slot to your blade?

[johnny means]

This would not be caused by the blade being warped, a warped table saw blade still makes straight cut, much the same way as a wobble dado stack does. The only way to get these results is the work piece not moving in a straight line through the blade.

There could be any number of reasons for this. Check for slop in your miter gauge. Make sure to push your piece through the blade in such a way as to not apply lateral forces to the gauge. A dull blade can force the work piece to deviate from a straight line. Try clamping or sandpaper on the fence to hold the workpiece still against the gauge. Is the fence deflecting as you make the cut? Sometimes, it helps to cut close to the line and use a dust cut to reach your finished size.

[Jim Rimmer]

This would not be caused by the blade being warped, a warped table saw blade still makes straight cut, much the same way as a wobble dado stack does. The only way to get these results is the work piece not moving in a straight line through the blade.

There could be any number of reasons for this. Check for slop in your miter gauge. Make sure to push your piece through the blade in such a way as to not apply lateral forces to the gauge. A dull blade can force the work piece to deviate from a straight line. Try clamping or sandpaper on the fence to hold the workpiece still against the gauge. Is the fence deflecting as you make the cut? Sometimes, it helps to cut close to the line and use a dust cut to reach your finished size.
+ 1 on this comment. How well does your miter gage fit in the slot?

[Bob Cooper]

first thing i'd try is to see if the same thing happens when you use a cross cut sled...get the miter gauge out of the equation.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Sandpaper on the face of the miter gauge is a huge help in holding the work piece. Highly recommended.

[Kevin Womer]

I used to get unsatisfactory cuts on my Incra 1000SE, double checked blade to miter, sloppiness in miter gauge etc...then I attached a piece of plywood with the t-bolts that come with the set and glued some sandpaper to the front. This fixed it for me, there was slight movement when I advanced the miter gauge somewhere along the cut. I just wish I would have thought of it sooner. Hope this helps.