James Combs
03-12-2010, 8:00 PM
I finished the 2nd "training" pen in my Churchill series and with two "training pens" completed I went to work on my customers TruStone pen.:)
No. 2 came out looking great but it is a good thing I did the training pens. Although no. 2 looked great it would not write.:mad: Why you ask? Well the nib became clogged with a build up of CA. And how did that happen?:confused: Nope I didn't get any CA on the nib.
Here is how it probably happened. If you are familiar with any of the crime investigation TV shows and their method of extracting finger prints by using CA glue vapor then you have a good idea as to how it might have happened. I had very sparingly glued (2 or 3 pinhead size drops) the finial bushing, center ban, nib holder, and receiver holder into their locations. I have always done this as assembly insurance because I have had a few parts come loose in the slimline pens. However, with this pen when every thing is assembled and the cap is in place you have a more or less air tight chamber. The glue not being 100% cured was still wafting off vapors. These vapors reacted with either my finger prints or oil left over from the nib manufacturing process (my vote is for the oil) and caused a buildup of a white-tish looking substance (you can see some at the top of the black part of the nib) It was very substantial and hard. It apparently filled up the small feed grove between the tip and the feed fins and blocked the ink. You could not see my finger prints anyplace before assembly. Actually there is a clear plastic piece of hose over the nib and I didn't remove it until I was taking photos. Again my vote is for the oil. The good side is that all I have to do is replace the nib to get it back into business. Needless to say I did not use any glue on the 3rd or customer pen.
Anyway disregarding the fact that No. 2 doesn't work (yet) tell me what you think. I love the wood on No. 2 (checkout the closeup) and No.3 is just downright extraordinary. It actually looks as good in person as it does in the photos. I wore white gloves working with it.:D
No. 2 Rose Wood (possible a burl) - Two Coats of crystal coat, one coat Hut wax stick, 3rd crystal coat, final Hut wax stick.
No. 3 (customer') TruStone-CSU Red Jasper or Bloody Basin Red Jasper (depending on site) sanded to 1200 grit then polished with HUT Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish. I thing the customer will be pleased.;)
No. 2 came out looking great but it is a good thing I did the training pens. Although no. 2 looked great it would not write.:mad: Why you ask? Well the nib became clogged with a build up of CA. And how did that happen?:confused: Nope I didn't get any CA on the nib.
Here is how it probably happened. If you are familiar with any of the crime investigation TV shows and their method of extracting finger prints by using CA glue vapor then you have a good idea as to how it might have happened. I had very sparingly glued (2 or 3 pinhead size drops) the finial bushing, center ban, nib holder, and receiver holder into their locations. I have always done this as assembly insurance because I have had a few parts come loose in the slimline pens. However, with this pen when every thing is assembled and the cap is in place you have a more or less air tight chamber. The glue not being 100% cured was still wafting off vapors. These vapors reacted with either my finger prints or oil left over from the nib manufacturing process (my vote is for the oil) and caused a buildup of a white-tish looking substance (you can see some at the top of the black part of the nib) It was very substantial and hard. It apparently filled up the small feed grove between the tip and the feed fins and blocked the ink. You could not see my finger prints anyplace before assembly. Actually there is a clear plastic piece of hose over the nib and I didn't remove it until I was taking photos. Again my vote is for the oil. The good side is that all I have to do is replace the nib to get it back into business. Needless to say I did not use any glue on the 3rd or customer pen.
Anyway disregarding the fact that No. 2 doesn't work (yet) tell me what you think. I love the wood on No. 2 (checkout the closeup) and No.3 is just downright extraordinary. It actually looks as good in person as it does in the photos. I wore white gloves working with it.:D
No. 2 Rose Wood (possible a burl) - Two Coats of crystal coat, one coat Hut wax stick, 3rd crystal coat, final Hut wax stick.
No. 3 (customer') TruStone-CSU Red Jasper or Bloody Basin Red Jasper (depending on site) sanded to 1200 grit then polished with HUT Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish. I thing the customer will be pleased.;)