Need advice

[Craig D Peltier]

Im in need of some advice. I have a 1.5 thick table top out of Maple , its 53x60. Its going to be stained and lacquered.

My possible problem I forsee is this:

One of the planks is checked on the end. The table is glued up and ready for finish. The checking goes in 2 inches and its half way through the thickness.Theres 2 checks like this. There's other smaller checks. The widest any one of them are 1/64th.

Is there a way thatI might possibly stop this from cracking the lacquer with expansion an contraction? Like a very thin glue that will seap? Or should I not bother with trying that route ? Maybe tight bond or crazy glue with a air hose? Pretty thin crack though, not sure if glue will go in.

Weather here isnt very humid at all. During the summer its mostly 70s but have 2-3 weeks a year where its 90. Its wet here though alot.

Each plank averages around 7 inches.

I was going to rip out the plank and replace with a new one but its alot of work but the least amount to fix it. Before I did that I wanted to ask on here.

Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

You can try flowing epoxy in those checks. The glue will look different from wood, so the repair will be visible. But the epoxy can fill the gap, and probably prevent further spreading. I use epoxy from West Systems. I get it from a local boating-supply place. I think System Three is nearly identical. Woodcraft sells one or the other. The epoxy is intended for fiberglassing, so it is quite fluid -- maybe thin pancake syrup. It'll flow quite well into those small gaps. In fact, one problem is that it flows in and disappears before it has time to cure. I build a little dam with masking tape around the repair to hold a reservoir of the liquid epoxy.

[Craig D Peltier]

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r202/puravida74/Wood%20for%20sale/IMG_4520.jpg


http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r202/puravida74/Wood%20for%20sale/IMG_4519.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r202/puravida74/Wood%20for%20sale/IMG_4518.jpg

[Craig D Peltier]

You can try flowing epoxy in those checks. The glue will look different from wood, so the repair will be visible. But the epoxy can fill the gap, and probably prevent further spreading. I use epoxy from West Systems. I get it from a local boating-supply place. I think System Three is nearly identical. Woodcraft sells one or the other. The epoxy is intended for fiberglassing, so it is quite fluid -- maybe thin pancake syrup. It'll flow quite well into those small gaps. In fact, one problem is that it flows in and disappears before it has time to cure. I build a little dam with masking tape around the repair to hold a reservoir of the liquid epoxy.

Thanks Jamie, my local woodcraft does have that System Three. The woman I spoke with has used many times in boating and she thought it would work well.

[Casey Gooding]

+1 on epoxy. Works best if you carefully tape off the area. Much less work later.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Use "super glue". Start with the thin one. It will go into the wood via capillary action. Then use the medium consistancy to fill the void out near the edge where it is widest. If the wood is good and dry, it won't want to keep checking unless you let moisture get in.
fmr

[David DeCristoforo]

"I was going to rip out the plank and replace with a new one but its alot of work but the least amount to fix it."

If this table is for a client, that would be the only option I would consider. But if this were my table and not intended for a paying customer, I would try filling with an epoxy/sawdust mix and hope for the best. If those checks have a mind to open up there is little under the sun that will stop them!

[Michael MacDonald]

Im in need of some advice. I have a 1.5 thick table top out of Maple , its 53x60. Its going to be stained and lacquered.

at the risk of a stupid suggestion: perhaps it doesn't meet the design intention, but have you considered breadboard ends?

[Craig D Peltier]

at the risk of a stupid suggestion: perhaps it doesn't meet the design intention, but have you considered breadboard ends?

I have considered a border all the way around. The table is oblong and it has 3 rounded corners , 2 same an one bigger round. The edge is rounded over 3/8 of an inch already as well.

[Tony Bilello]

Here is what I do.
Get a good brand of CA glue like "Zap" from a Hobby Shop. It comes in 3 different viscosities - thin, medium and thick. For cracks like this you will need the 'thin'. Also buy a small bottle of the accellerator or 'kicker'. The thin is thinner than water and will seep into almost any crack. Now gather up some saw dust, the finer the better. Best place is from your sander.
Now, pour/squirt/whatever the thin CA glue into/onto the cracks. Force some sawdust with your finger into the cracks on top of the glue while it is still wet. Then put more CA glue on top of the sawdust. Repeat this process about 2 or three times until the glue-sawdust fill is level or slightly higher than the surrounding wood. Next, give a quick squirt of the 'kicker' and it will all dry instantly. You might even see a small puff of smoke. Sand flush and apply your finish. The cracks will appear slightly darker than the surrounding area and will give a very slight character to the wood.
I do this regularly. I have never received any comments about the cracks which tells me they go un-noticed by the customer. I do this on both new jobs as well as repair/refinish work.
This whole process should take you about 10 minutes to complete all of your cracks. The CA glue will sand off the surface and allow stain. If you are going with a natural finish, the slight ambering of the CA glue will disappear.
If you are freaky about staining, you could also mask off the areas right up against the crack.

[Dave Whelan]

My father, who is an experienced woodturner, does the super glue/sawdust technique all the time and it works great.

[Tony Bilello]

My father, who is an experienced woodturner, does the super glue/sawdust technique all the time and it works great.

That is where I picked up that 'habit'. I also have some scars from old wounds that I super glued together.
Recently my wife was visiting her son in Austin. He slipped with a box cutter and cut his hand. While she was driving him to the ER, she told him that he ought to be glad that Tony wasn't here. He would be driving you to Hobby Lobby for super glue.
He only req'd 4 stitches. Thats only amateur level super gluing techniques. Mere child's play.

[Andy McCormick]

Rip it out and fix it. Why settle? If you stain it, it will always be seen and it will bother you the rest of the time you see it. Andy

[Craig D Peltier]

That is where I picked up that 'habit'. I also have some scars from old wounds that I super glued together.
Recently my wife was visiting her son in Austin. He slipped with a box cutter and cut his hand. While she was driving him to the ER, she told him that he ought to be glad that Tony wasn't here. He would be driving you to Hobby Lobby for super glue.
He only req'd 4 stitches. Thats only amateur level super gluing techniques. Mere child's play.

Thats funny! Thanks for the laugh. The Hobby Lobby LOL

[Craig D Peltier]

Here is what I do.
Get a good brand of CA glue like "Zap" from a Hobby Shop. It comes in 3 different viscosities - thin, medium and thick. For cracks like this you will need the 'thin'. Also buy a small bottle of the accellerator or 'kicker'. The thin is thinner than water and will seep into almost any crack. Now gather up some saw dust, the finer the better. Best place is from your sander.
Now, pour/squirt/whatever the thin CA glue into/onto the cracks. Force some sawdust with your finger into the cracks on top of the glue while it is still wet. Then put more CA glue on top of the sawdust. Repeat this process about 2 or three times until the glue-sawdust fill is level or slightly higher than the surrounding wood. Next, give a quick squirt of the 'kicker' and it will all dry instantly. You might even see a small puff of smoke. Sand flush and apply your finish. The cracks will appear slightly darker than the surrounding area and will give a very slight character to the wood.
I do this regularly. I have never received any comments about the cracks which tells me they go un-noticed by the customer. I do this on both new jobs as well as repair/refinish work.
This whole process should take you about 10 minutes to complete all of your cracks. The CA glue will sand off the surface and allow stain. If you are going with a natural finish, the slight ambering of the CA glue will disappear.
If you are freaky about staining, you could also mask off the areas right up against the crack.

Thanks Tony, I did buy some Sytem 3 recommende dby Jamie on here, I havent squirted it out yet, I will check consistency to make sure its really runny since the cracks are small. Sytem 3 is made for marine applications typically and its very strong. Thanks for the insight on the super glue, I will be looking for a Hobby Lobby :)

[charlie spencer]

If you have a Kreg pocket hole jig consider putting a screw on the underside