taking off some 1" curved MDF, what should I use?

[Don Morris]

I've got a 1" wide shelf of curved MDF that protrudes about 3/8" out for about 8". It's in place and after the trouble I went to getting it there I really don't want to take it out and try to run it through the TS or BS. If it were any kind of hard wood, no problem. Out with some hand planes and I'd knock it down and love the task of doing it. But MDF...I know I've heard that it's hard on handplanes. I'm at that point where I'm ready to do that. Before I do...how bad is it on handplane blades? I have no problem resharpening them. I have a Tormek and it's about time to do LOML's knives anyway. But if it really dulls them rapidly, I'd like to know that in advance and maybe I'll try to do some sanding first...Grrrrrrrr at that thought. Thanks for any input from those who've handplaned MDF...I haven't.

[Derek Gilmer]

What about a heavy rasp or file to get it down most of the way? Then switch to a plane. I've had good luck building speaker cabs out of mdf and using a good file to remove material quickly.

[Caspar Hauser]

Plane away. Tickle up the blade as you need to.

[harry strasil]

I would probably use my HF rendition of the Fein Multitool. it works good on MDF

[James Taglienti]

I have handplaned mdf before it basically just turns to dust. It's not too bad on the blade. But i would just belt sand the shelf.

[Prashun Patel]

Use a sanding block. Sanding is about as efficient as planing mdf, and you won't have to rehone yr blade after.

Rasping is also very efficient.

[Rick Erickson]

I'm with Casper - plane away and resharpen as needed. The blade won't melt. You aren't going to get shavings but if your goal is to just knock it down you don't need them. If you have a spoke shave you may want to try that first.

[Jeff Farris]

Don,

Rip away with your hand plane. It will be faster and more accurate than any other option. It's a little tougher on the iron than hardwood (it's the glue), but not much. If you can open the throat on your plane, open it a little, pull the cap iron back a little more than normal, tweak the depth down to the point that the cut is on the heavy side of normal and get 'er done.

[Dave Matson]

This sounds like the perfect opportunity to justify the purchase of a stanley 193! :D

[Tim Sgrazzutti]

Cut close to a line with a coarse blade on a coping saw (to avoid making too much dust), clean up and blend in with a plane. Planed plenty of MDF on construction jobs, no big deal, especially if you can sharpen.

[James Taglienti]

I almost forgot
make sure the blade is razor sharp or it will "fuzz" the corners of the surface you are planing, i'm sure it's the MDF version of of corner chips.
I don't know how they make MDF but it seems like it's huge sheets or layers sprayed onto each other. So MDF has "grain" too.

[Don Morris]

Dave, or anybody, I took a cursory gander thru my 2004 Antique & Collectable pocket guide of Stanley Tools and couldn't find (probably missed it) a Stanley 193 plane. What's it look like...edited later...is that the Fiber Board Cutter plane?

[James Taglienti]

Yea it's one of the fiberboards. I'm pretty sure they won't work on MDF though, being designed for fiberboard which is so much softer. Too bad, with all the MDF people want in their furniture these days I would go buy the whole bunch of them. Now the hardboard plane might be a different story.
I don't use many planes on MDF. It just has no reward. You certainly can't use a smoother. I'll use handsaws and stuff on it sometimes. But for the most part, the best results with MDF are obtained with sanders and other power tools. I know it sounsd terrible but it's true. Handsaws can delaminate it, planes just turn it to dust and leave it in need of sanding anyway... and I don't see anyone cutting dovetails or tenons in it. It's just manufactured paint grade junk and honestly I don't see it having a service life of over 50 years. It's just sawdust and glue, and it's like a giant sponge on top of that.
bah. :mad: