SHop Made Hollowing Rig

[Bob Haverstock]

Folks,

I've been lusting after a hollowing system. So, this week I looked athe plunder in my shop and found almost everything that I needed to make a hollowing system. the only thing that I purchased was a 3 dollar laser pointer fron one of the big chain stores. The bar is 1 inch diameter. The tail rest has an adjustable slot.

The first larger urn that made is set up on the lathe and I opened up the cavity, now the urn has a .5 inch wall.

P.S. I really am enjoying the Nova.

[Ray Bell]

Bob,

Can you expound a little on how this was made, with maybe some more detailed pictures. It looks pretty nice, and seems to work well. I am not a welder, but have a brother in law who is. Thank you for any details you can provide.

BTW, nice lathe, and steady rest.

Ray

[Bob Haverstock]

Oops, I forgot to say that the steady rest is one that I bought fron Jeff Nicol. Iwas ordered to fit my JWL 1220 . I made a wooden riser so that I could use it on my Nova. I really have good good things to say about the steady rest. Thanks to Jeff for the quality that he built into it.

Bob Haverstock

[QUOTE=Bob Haverstock;1369854]Folks,

I've been lusting after a hollowing system. So, this week I looked athe plunder in my shop and found almost everything that I needed to make a hollowing system. the only thing that I purchased was a 3 dollar laser pointer fron one of the big chain stores. The bar is 1 inch diameter. The tail rest has an adjustable slot.

The first larger urn that made is set up on the lathe and I opened up the cavity, now the urn has a .5 inch wall.

P.S. I really am enjoying the Nova

[Bob Haverstock]

Ray,

The first consideration was the max. length of the hollows that I wanted to bore. I chose 16 inches, the next consideration was the length of the length of the outrigger that slides in the tail support ( 16 inches plus twice the width of the 1" square tubing used in the tail support. So the length of the total length of the bar is 34 inches. 1" cold rolled steel is what I had on hand so the bar is made of 1" cold rolled round.

Because I didn't want to use the bed extention, I used about a 6" offset on the tail support. The square tubes are offset away from the operator to allow cutting a large radius in the cavity of the urn. Since I used a 1" boring bar, the top of the bottom square tube is 1/2 ince below the center line if of the spindle. Because welding causes warping, I chose to use all thread to adjust and secure the top tube to the bottom tube. I adjust the slot between the tubes with nuts below the top tube.

Yep, this boring stuff, I you have more questions, ask.

Bob

QUOTE=Ray Bell;1369859]Bob,

Can you expound a little on how this was made, with maybe some more detailed pictures. It looks pretty nice, and seems to work well. I am not a welder, but have a brother in law who is. Thank you for any details you can provide.

BTW, nice lathe, and steady rest.

Ray[/QUOTE]

[Ray Bell]

Thanks Bob, does the laser pointer just act as a guide, or does it measure?

[Bob Haverstock]

Ray,

The laser is a guide. I set in in a manner that when the laser dot falls of the edge of the turning, I have the desired wall thickness. Looking from the tail stock end of the lathe, I set the laser dot 1/2 inch to the left of the cutting edge of the tool.

Bob



Bob
Thanks Bob, does the laser pointer just act as a guide, or does it measure?

[David E Keller]

It looks good, and the first piece there on the lathe looks great. Kudos on getting it done.

[Baxter Smith]

Nice looking job and thanks for the explanation. I just have to build a steady rest first.:)

[Allen Neighbors]

Ain't it awesome to be able to build your own tools??!! Nice job, Bob. Congratulations! :D

[Bernie Weishapl]

Really nice looking unit Bob.

[Bob Haverstock]

Folks,

I went to "big"store today and bought 2 "spare" laser pens. I think it was a $4.94 expenditure. I should be good to go.

I use a trashbag wire tie to hold the button in while I'm using the laser pen.

Bob